- Team Associated B6D - Ray Munday - Outdoor Setup Guide - Jan 2017

Since July, we have managed to test and develop the B6D on a lot of outdoor tracks here in Australia
(I also attended the Reedy Outdoor Race @ Hotrod Hobbies with a few of my Aussie teammates). The kit setup took a little tweaking to get it working on all outdoor tracks, but our 1-2-3 at Australian Nats in 2w mod on a very rough track showed how good the car is.

Based on this testing I have put together a guide for the setups I have been using on a range of outdoor track conditions. These have been developed with a lot of feedback from my teammates, mainly Andrew Selvaggi, Mark Rogers and Matt Kellett. Thanks guys.

The B6 platform is incredibly adjustable and we are still learning all the time, but this is where I am personally at as of 1 Jan 2017. Each track is different and each driver likes a different feel, so I encourage you all to experiment from here.

I have also attached a few of my B6D setups at the bottom of this page.

Some notes:

  • The 6D is lighter (about 50g) and more reactive than the 5M. Generally we are running a spring rate softer than the same conditions on the 5M. In modified I prefer the feel with saddle packs or with 50g under a shorty. If its really bumpy then 50g under a saddle pack settles the car but slows the handling.
  • It seems to like 1mm lower ride height than we ran for the 5m and the rear 1mm lower than the front.
  • The weight bias is a little more forward than the 5m with the servo and esc both sitting more forward. I am running an LP servo and mounted the ESC as far back as possible.
  • The car comes with an alloy c block and a 12g brass D block is available as a drop in fit. A 25g brass C is available for the laydown transmission but I have dremelled one to fit the standup (final weight 23g) and this really helps on bumpy / slippery tracks. The Brass D block is also useful to get more forward traction out of slow corners on a slippery track. However any brass at the rear hurts corner speed and so on a flowing track with reasonable grip, try without the weight in the rear. My experience is that if you are having to baby the throttle to stop wheelspin, add weight to the rear. If you are having to hesitate getting on the throttle as the rear hasn't straightened up out of the corner, take weight off the rear. Also if you are severely lacking on power steering (or getting too many power wheelies) take weight off the rear.
  • For lower grip / bumpy tracks I recommend shaving 2~3mm off the front of the rear arms (or using the rear arms from the B5R). This puts a little more weight over the rear tyres.
  • The rear suspension inner pivots are highly adjustable (the alloy D option part is strongly recommended - the kit includes all of the pills). We are generally finding running them narrower (narrow at the C and D block) helps rear traction on most tracks and I recommend as a starting point. I like the feel with 2° squat and 3. 5 toe, however if it gets bumpy under power less squat will help ride the bumps better.
  • We found running 1mm spacer (use large washers or a carbon spacer such as those made by Bezerk) between the chassis and the front bulkhead really helped the steering feel of the car. A lot more mid corner steering. A simple but effective change. I am running the alloy front bulkhead for a little more strength but if its really slippery try the plastic bulkhead.
  • I use hard front arms as they give more precise steering. The flat arms give better turn in and I like them most of the time. The gull arms tend to give more steering on the corner exit and are good as grip increases or you have a lot of lower speed corners.
  • Alloy steering parts are available, but currently I prefer the feel of the kit plastic parts. I use an alloy steering horn.
  • The rear wing sits ~15mm further forward than the 5M. On lower grip tracks, move the wing back ~10mm and you will get a lot more rear grip from low~med speed corners.
  • The 4 gear is available as an option and I like the way it accelerates hard. The 3 gear gives more on power steering and is better for more flowing tracks.
  • The laydown transmission is showing huge promise on faster / flowing tracks. The corner speed is incredible and it jumps really well. The main downside is that it lacks some forward bite from low speed, so if you have a jump after a tight corner or some dusty sections it can lose time there. With the laydown, use the heavier brass C and usually the Brass D on dirt.
  • The kit includes 2 lengths of shock eyelets. At the front, use the short eyelet for the middle hole on the arm (which matches the outer hole on the 5M) and the long eyelet for the new 3rd hole. At the rear, use the long eyelets when the shock is mounted behind the arm and the short when in front of the arm (only applicable for the laydown transmission).
  • The longer rear shock body option (long tower and 31mm bodies) really helps rear traction on bumpy tracks.
  • The front and rear hubs have adjustable height. At the front, running +1mm helps keep the car flatter and is good on faster / smoother tracks, but will become less predictable in bumpy sections. The same alloy rear hubs from the 5M can be used which I find help rear traction (slightly more weight at the rear tyres).
  • Front bumpsteer seems quite sensitive. I prefer 0. 5mm less bumpsteer washer for more mid corner steering and a 1mm steering rack washer which also makes the steering more responsive from turn in.

Hope this helps to enjoy your racing!

This setup guide has been created to give a starting point for typical track conditions experienced in Australia (outdoor, dry, dusty, bumpy). Use the 'Starting Setup' as a starting point, then make adjustments to suit your track condition.

For more setups, see:
- Team Associated
- Petitrc - Setup sheets

3 January 2017.
ray@rccar. com. au
Starting Setup
(Lower Grip, Bumpy)
Very Low Grip
(change from starting setup)
Very Bumpy
(change from starting setup)
Medium Grip / Flowing
(change from starting setup)
Med~High grip / Flowing Layout (change from starting setup)
FRONT SUSPENSION Shock Mount Top / Bottom Mid / Mid         Usually leave middle tower / middle arm. Lean in on tower for smoother steering in high grip. Use outer hole on arm in very high grip (need longer rod end).
Camber Link Tower / Hub Mid / Inner         Usually leave in this position.
Washers Inner 1.5mm         More washers = lower roll centre
(smoother entry, more mid & exit steering). (Kit= 1mm)
Camber / Kickup / Castor -1° / 25° / 5°   -2° -1.5° -1.5° More camber smooths out steering, good for bumpy conditions. Rarely change kickup / castor.
Ackermann Plate +1mm         Sensitive adjustment (option part).
+1mm plate increases low speed steering but keeps high speed smooth. AE #91680
Washers Rack / Outer 1mm / 1.5mm     1mm / 1mm
(if using +1mm axle height)
1mm / 1mm
(if using +1mm axle height)
Sensitive adjustment.
Outer (bumpsteer): Less washers= more aggressive mid corner
Rack (Ackermann): Less washers= more low speed steering (less sensitive than outer) (Kit = 2mm)
Axle Height 0mm     +1mm +1mm 0mm for most tracks. +1mm keeps front flatter, smooths out steering off power, but less predictable on power in bumps. Need to adjust bumpsteer to match.
Trail / Hub Spacing f/r            
Toe In / Out 1° Out         1° out most tracks. More toe out= more initial steering, less exit.
Arms Flat Hard       Gull Hard Hard arms make steering more precise in lower grip, smoother in high grip. Flat arms more initial response, smoother exit. Gull arms more rotation in mid to exit, better on power steering, but less initial response.
Front Bulkhead Alloy.
1mm between bulkhead & chassis
1mm between bulkhead & chassis
      Alloy bulkhead more durable, slightly heavier.

Sensitive adjustment: 1mm washers between bulkhead and chassis lowers front roll centre, gives much more mid corner and exit steering. Use large diameter washers or aftermarket carbon plate.
Anti-Roll Bar -         Only used on high grip carpet
Ride Height 23mm         B6D likes lower ride height than B5M. 23mm most tracks.
Spring AE Green   AE White
(if front diving in bumps)
AE White AE White Sensitive adjustment.
Green front spring
(softer) helps front steer in lower grip and still stable as grip increases. Use white spring (kit) for more flowing / higher grip tracks - allows higher corner speed.
Oil / Piston AE 32.5 / 3 holes x 1.4

(or 32.5 / 2 holes x 1.6)
  AE 37.5 / 2 holes x1.7     Usually use 32.5wt / 3 holes x 1.4mm. Smooths out steering and lands well. Use 2 holes x 1.7 in very low grip for extra traction.
Limiters / Length / Rebound 1 / 20.5mm
(Short Rod End)
        (Kit=20mm). Longer shock = more droop. More droop is better in bumps, but less steering on exit and can feel wandery.
REAR SUSPENSION Shock Mount Top / Bottom Inner / Inner         Using inner hole on tower adds rear grip in sweeping corners. Use most of the time
(kit= middle). Always use inner hole on arm.
Camber Link Inner / Hub Mid / Alloy Hub #2

(upper mid with kit hub)
        Rarely change. Alloy hubs AE#91549 add strength and more rear grip.
Washers Inner / Outer 2mm / 3mm
(Alloy Hub)
    1mm / 3mm 1mm / 3mm Sensitive adjustment.
More washers (inner)= Lower roll centre. Lower roll centre gives more rear grip mid corner and exit. 2mm used most of the time. Use 1mm on flowing tracks for less rear roll and more exit steering. Try 4mm outer on higher grip tracks.
Camber -1° -0.5° -1.5°     Sensitive adjustment for bumpy tracks. More camber= less side grip but smoother sliding and less catching in bumps. -1° most of the time.
Hub Height 0mm
        Use 0mm hub pivot height on dirt. (Alloy hubs AE #91549).
Anti-Squat / Toe 2° / 3.5°   1° / 3.5°
(0° squat if severe bumps under power)
1° / 3.5° 1° / 3.5° Sensitive adjustment.
More anti-squat= more on power grip, but worse in bumps and less braking grip and turn in. Less squat= less traction under power but smoother in bumps and less wheelstand in higher grip. Toe-in: 3.5° seems good balance on most dirt tracks.
C Pivot / D Pivot 1mm In & Up / 0. 5mm In   1mm In / 0.5mm In 1mm In / 0.5mm In 1mm In / 0.5mm In Sensitive adjustment (need Alloy D or Brass D to make these changes).
Narrower pivot spacing (narrower rear track) = better stability under power, better rotation feel mid corner. Wider rear spacing more on power steering, better stability mid corner. Raising pivots raises rear roll centre (can help in higher grip).
WheelBase Short
(B5R Arms or dremel 3mm off std arms)
        Sensitive adjustment.
Shorter wheelbase = more weight over rear wheels. Use B5R rear arms (or dremel 2~3mm off front of B6D arm) for shorter wheelbase. Improves rear traction under power and braking. In higher grip,Standard arms (short wheelbase) is OK.
Anti-Roll Bar -         Only used on high grip carpet
Ride Height 22mm         B6D likes lower ride height than B5M. 22mm most tracks
(run rear 1mm below front)
Spring AE Black     AE Green
(White for more corner speed)
AE Green Sensitive Adjustment.
Black spring (softer than kit) rides bumps better and gives better rear traction in lower grip.
Green (kit) keeps rear flatter and gives more corner speed on more flowing / higher grip. Stiffer spring gives more nose down jumping / further distance jumping and better landing.
Oil / Piston AE 32.5 / 2holes x 1.7 AE 30wt / 2holes x 1.7 AE 27.5wt
(if no big jumps)
    2 holes x1.7mm gives best traction. I use machined pistons AE#91627 for slightly better response. 32.5wt standard. 30wt ride bumps a bit better. 27.5wt rides bumps better but landing worse.
Shock Length / Position Long
(31mm Body) /
Behind Tower
        Optional 31mm body / longer rear tower: Big improvement in rear traction on very bumpy tracks, slightly plusher landing on jumps. Laydown: Shocks behind tower most dirt tracks unless very high grip.
Limiters / Length / Rebound 1 / 28.0mm
(Long Rod End)
28. 5mm 28. 5mm     Sensitive adjustment.
More droop= more rear traction in bumpy corners and bigger bumps, better jump landing, but less responsive handling in higher grip / flowing tracks. 28. 0mm good balance (kit= 27. 5mm).
Tyres JC Dirt Webs
JC Rips JC Bar Codes JC Dirt Webs JC Dirt Webs Front: Typically JConcepts Rips if the track is damp, Bar Codes if dusty, and Dirt Webs if grooved. Rear: JConcepts 3Ds if hard packed but dusty / loose on top, Bar Codes if grooved, Flip Outs if wet.
Blue compound most of the time, with orange if it is very hot and green if damp.
Seehttp://www.rctech.net/forum/10587840­post2.html for more detail.
Inserts Open Cell Open Cell Dirt Tech CC Dirt Tech CC Dirt Tech CC
Wheels Jconcepts Mono        
Tyres JC Bar Code V1 JC DD JC 3D JC Bar Code V1 JC Dirt Maze
Inserts Open Cell Open Cell Open Cell Close Cell
(punched 3h each rib)
Close Cell
(punched 3h each rib)
Wheels Jconcepts Mono        
Motor Reedy Sonic 3 7. 5T         Use 7. 5T most of the time on outdoor tracks. 8.5T a little smoother, but 7,5T helps to clear jumps easier.
Timing / Rotor 30° 15° 20°     Sensitive adjustment.
Decrease timing for low grip / bumpy tracks.
Increase timing for more power feel.
Pinion / Spur 23 / 78         Use 24 / 75 for 8. 5T.
3 Gear / 4 gear 4 Gear     3 gear 3 Gear Critical Adjustment
Standup = more weight over rear. 4 gear= better stability under power, but less steering. Use for lower grip and tracks with straights after slow corners. 3 gear standup= more on power steering than 4 gear, better braking. Use on more flowing layout.
Laydown = weight further forward. Big increase in corner speed and on power steering, better jumping, but lose forward traction. Use on flowing tracks where corner speed is critical. Worse if big jump directly after hairpin corner (can be harder to clear).
Standup / Laydown Standup     Standup Laydown
Ratio 8. 8:1          
ELECTRONICS Radio KO EX-1          
EPA Steer / Brake 100 / 90         Set brake EPA to just lock up wheels at speed. Adjust track by track. Set steering EPA for full lock. Reduce on super high grip
(e. g. astro use ~85%).
EXPO Steer / Throttle / Brake 0 / 15 / 0         Adjust for personal feel. -15% throttle expo most tracks.
Servo Reedy LP Hi-Speed @7. 0V         Low profile servo used to reduce front weight bias.
ESC Reedy 410R         510R now released.
Drag Brake Y / N, Initial % 18%         18% drag brake used most tracks.
DeadBand % 3%          
Drive / Brake Freq
16kHz / 1. 6kHz         Sensitive adjustment:Increased drive frequency smooths out power delivery at low RPM.
EXPO Throttle / Brake 0 / -20         Set for personal preference
Boost Timing No boost         No boost used
Top Speed Timing 10° No timing       10° top speed timing used for longer straight. Disable for very low grip unless long straight.
Battery Reedy 5700 Saddle

(or shorty with 50g under)
      Reedy 5300 Shorty Prefer feeling with heavier pack
(usually use saddle, can also use shorty with Reedy brass weight plate underneath).
Battery Placement Rear     Forward 2 holes Against Waterfall Rear for slippery tracks, forward as grip increases. Bumpy track:Battery rear more traction, battery forward will keep the car flatter in the bumps.
Battery Ballast -   50g under battery     Ballast under battery improves stability and bump riding, but slows response
AERO / CHASSIS Body Jconcepts Silencer       Jconcepts S2 body improves stability and jumping.
Wing Narrow JC Front Wing
JC Hi-Clearance Rr Wing
(no front wing)     Front wing improves on power steering in med / high speed corners.
Wing Position Standard 10mm Rear       Moving wing 10mm rear makes huge difference to rear traction from medium speed, but more nose up jumping. Very good in low traction.
Wing Lip / Angle Line 2 / Mid Line 3 / Max   Line 1   Wing angle change is less effect than moving wing backwards
Fr & Rr Arms Hard Front /
Std B5R Rear
      Hard front / Hard Rear Hard front arms used all tracks. Hard rear arms help rear stability in high grip / high temp, and land from jumps better, but reduced traction in bumps. Hard arms more brittle in very low temps.
Steering Alloy Servo horn, kit bellcranks         Alloy servo horn less chance of breakage. Kit plastic bellcranks more forgiving steering than alloy on most tracks.
Ballast 25g Brass C
(Dremel to fit)
Alloy D
Brass D Brass D only if very slippery Alloy C & D block 25g Brass C
Brass D
Important adjustment. Weight bias is critical for 2wd. More weight @ rear= more forward traction, but more oversteer in high speed corners, oversteer at corner exit and jumping more nose high. If poor forward traction, add weight to the rear. Use 25g Brass C and dremel to fit standup transmission. Corner speed is higher and jumping better with no brass at the rear. Use Brass D if forward traction is very poor (with laydown transmission, use Brass C and Brass D on dirt).

Outdoor Setup Guide - PDF


R. Munday