The final assembly has us installing the top deck, bumper, battery holders and the electronics.

Ok, on to the build!

Build Notes:

  • The TRF419XR allows several different options at this point; different center braces, weights, battery holders, etc. These spare parts are in a separate bag, so don’t forget to pull them out to see the options.

  • One thing to note – the stock spur gear that comes with the TRF419XR is not suitable for stock class racing. Top top it off, the spur gear mounting setup is a little odd as well, meaning not just any spur gear will work. I found that the Panaracer-Xenon spur gears work the best.

  • Since your electronics will probably not match what I have, I left the install of these out of the build. It’s pretty straightforward, however, so you shouldn’t have a problem installing yours.

    Step 1: The first step is to assemble the servo horn and attach it to the servo. You can use the included servo saver setup or, like I did, attach a standard horn. I’m not to keen on the Tamiya servo savers – they seem to flex a bit too much for me.

    Step 2: Assemble the servo mount. Blue threadlock is suggested here.

    Step 3: Attach the servo to the mount. Again, Blue threadlock is suggested here as well.

    Step 4: Attach the mount to the chassis. You’ll notice it’s only attached on one side – this is an example of a floating servo mount. This helps retain the correct tweak on both sides of the car. Don’t forget to pop the drag link onto the servo horn.

    Step 5: Here is where you’ll have some options; I went with the carbon brace as a starting point. I also attached the weight in the center, however I chose to do it after I had already built the car. (See the end of the manual for chassis rigidity options).

    Step 6: Attach the motor. I will be running in the 17.5T class but, since my motor hadn’t arrived at the time of the build, I dropped a R1 Wurks 10.5T in for show.

    Step 7: Assemble the belt tensioner.

    Step 8: Attach the tensioner assembly to the top deck.

    Step 9: Attach the top deck. I would NOT recommend using blue threadlock on these screws.

    Step 10: Attach the battery pad. It’s a bit long so I cut it down a little to fit.

    Step 11: Slip a wheel spacer onto the axle followed by the serrated nut. The spacers can be left off to help tune the width of your TRF419XR.

    Step 12: Attach the rear body posts.

    Step 13: Attach the front body posts to the front bumper.

    Step 14: Attach the front bumper assembly to the chassis.

    Step 15: Slide the foam bumper into place, then the carbon bumper mount. Secure with the 2 8mm screws.

    Step 16: Install the battery bumper. This can be adjusted (more or less spacers) to move the battery in or out.

    Step 17: Assemble the 2 battery holders. These additional screws can be adjusted (more or less spacers) to move the battery in or out or front to back.

    Step 18: Attach the battery holders to the chassis.

    And, just like that, you have a completed Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car! Now install your electronics, mount that body and get to some racing!

    Use the links below to follow each step.
    Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car Build – Opening Page
    Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car Build – Part 1 – Chassis/ Bulkheads
    Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car Build – Part 2 – Rear Differential
    Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car Build – Part 3 – Driveline
    Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car Build – Part 4 – Steering
    Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car Build – Part 5 – Suspension
    Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car Build – Part 6 – Anti-Roll Bars
    Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car Build – Part 7 – Shocks
    Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car Build – Part 8 – Final Assembly

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