Step 1: Before we start, completely disassemble the shocks and separate all the parts.

Step 2: Slip the black o-ring into the collars. Doing this now will ensure you have fluid-free fingers; trying to do this with shock oil on your mitts could cause a mental breakdown.

Step 3: Attach the pistons to the shock shaft.

Step 4: Slide the shaft assembly through the shock body. Place a small drop of fluid onto the threaded part of the shaft and slide an o-ring and rod guide on. Make sure the 'lip' on the rod guide faces down.

Once on, thread the rod guide cap onto the bottom of the shock body. The 'lip' on the rod guide should feed through the rod guide cap.

Finally, thread the shock eyelet onto the shaft. Make sure all 4 shocks have the same gap between the bottom of the shock body and the top of the shock eyelet.

Step 5: Thread the collar onto the shock. Fill the shocks with fluid. Pump the shaft up and down a few times to release any bubbles out from under the piston and set aside. We want all the bubbles to dissipate.

Step 6: Refill with fluid until it is slightly crowned inside the shock, then set the bladder on top, forcing any extra oil out of the shock. Set the plastic shock top into place, then thread on the aluminum shock cap.

Plunge the shaft a few times to make sure the shocks don’t bind.

Step 7: Install the shock spring and bottom spring retainer. Thread the collars down until they come in contact with the spring.

Step 8: Assemble the rear shock tower. Note the orientation.

Step 9: Attach the rear tower assembly to your car.

Step 10: Attach the rear shocks.

Step 11: Assemble the front shock tower. Note the orientation.

Step 12: Attach the front tower assembly to your car.

Step 13: Attach the front shocks.

We’re using the kit-suggested mounting locations for the shocks, however we’ve started with 35wt fluid. This might change if the car feels lazy around the track.

Let button up the final details.