- X-Factory X6² - Paul Sinclair - Grand Blanc -

I was just at ams a few weekends ago for their East vs West race (note, not for their super-cross race which was the weekend after). I honestly wasn't too happy with my car there - I played with it all day but couldn't get on the pace. AMS is a pretty slick track, and I've done some set-up work since then that I think would have really helped. Here's what I will be running next time I drive up to Grand Blanc:

Setup sheet

Front:

2B Camber Link, 2 washers, 30* caster blocks, forward, inline axles, middle spindle height, .170" bump steer washers (it's a lot, I know), forward Ackerman hole

Shocks: mounted inside on the tower, outside on the arm. Get the shocks to be 3.00" long at full droop (I'm running like .060" inside losi shocks, but then I've unscrewed the shock end ~2 turns).
Losi: 56 piston (red), 30wt oil, orange spring
AE: #2 piston, 30wt oil, brown spring

Rear:

1/2 aluminum degree hub carriers, 'B' hole, 1 washer. On the bulkhead, run the 2 hole, but either counter-bore the ballstud or just grind away material to lower the ballstud .060". Run a nut on the bottom and the bulkhead won't break. [This camber link stuff is key, so don't just run 2B and think it'll be close enough!] Then run a 4* toe block (3* if running stock), .090" AS spacers, one .030" spacer in front of the arms, one .030" spacer behind the hub carriers, no spacers under the transmission.

Shocks: mounted inside on the tower, middle on the arm. Get the shocks to be 3.48" long.
Losi: 57 piston (black), 27.5 wt oil, pink spring
AE: #3 piston, 27.5 wt oil, silver spring

Tires: Front: Losi Pink Tapers up front, 3/4 of a rear foam inside
         Rear: ProLine MC suburbs in the rear, with PL 2-stage foam inside.

Ride height: Set the front below level, then look at the car from the side and set the rear to be a bit higher, so the chassis has some rake down to the front.

Camber: Around 1, 1.5 degrees negative camber all around felt best.

Toe-In: run some decent toe in, like 1.5 or 2 degrees per side. 0* or toe-out made the car twitchy for me, though it wasn't un-driveable.

Again, the key to this set-up was figuring out the rear roll centers. You're trying to lower the whole rear link (less washers on the outside, lower the inside too). At AMS I messed around with making traction through CVD scrub (arms fwd hubs fwd), then I tried running a really soft rear shock package, and I finally concluded after the race I needed to make the rear roll softer, and go back to 'normal' shocks and wheelbase. With the above setup, the front droop is a really nice tuning tool: increase it to get more corner speed, take out some droop if the car wants to 'hook' mid-turn.