5mm longer car

Brian Kinwald started the long chassis craze 2 1/2 years ago when he drove for us by lengthening his X - 6. Later he decided the first version was too long and made a second one shorter than the first but 5mm longer than stock. Paul had a 5mm chassis at the 2009 R.O.A.R. Nationals. He destroyed the car in a monster crash at full speed on the back straight. Kinwald continued to run his "limo" until we parted company early this year.

Paul has been running the stock chassis ever since with excellent results, and all other Team drivers, including Ellis, have always used only production chassies. They all know about Kinwald's "limo," and the pros & cons have been discussed throughout the Team. All drivers are free to do as they see fit, and so far all have used only production chassies.

The "limo" suited Kinwald, so if you can drive like a World Champ it might suit you, but our experience indicates most other drivers will do quite well with the standard X - 6 Sq chassis. - YoungChazz


Ok for all those who want to make a quick test of a 5mm longer car. But who hate to use inlines with the caster block shimmed forward ( my personal favorite )

Just reverse the caster blocks, this will make your car a bit longer.

It's not totally "plug-and-play" but easy enough to do:

• If you run 30deg. (+5deg) you need to use 20deg. (-5deg) caster to keep the same caster setting (you're reversing them remember!) - 25deg (0deg) you can just swap over.
• Cut a small amount of the (now) backside of the caster block to keep the same steering amount (see below caster block on the right side)



• Cut a small amount of your suspension arm to keep the steering block from binding on the arm when steering (same as you would with running inlines in the long position, which btw also adds about 5mm if you want to go even longer).



• Add about 15/20 grams under the steering rack to keep the same weight distribution.
• Always run your steering block low, to compensate for the height difference.
• Readjust toe- / camber settings and EPA (Duh.....)

That's all you need to do.

Note 1: it does weaken the front a little, so I'm assuming you (sort-of) know how to drive
Note 2: also works on the B4

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A lot of drivers do not use the front motorplate support to allow more flex. I also do this to create more drive on low grip tracks. But I do not want the chassis to flex inwards during a hard landing. So i made an (ugly ) nylon block under the plate. So it van only flex to one side.

Bonus transmission tip: if you ever had any of the lugs breakoff the transmission case. Just put the same size shim you put under the lugs also between the transmission and the chassis itself. So any load is carries by the whole casing, and not just the 4 lugs.

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I like to put an extra nut on the end of the screw for the shocktower. This way you cant strip the thread out of the rear shocktower mount.

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Since it's always the back of the X6 chassis that gets worn-out the worst (for me anyway).
I made this: An embedded rear skid / wear plate. So it can be replaced if it gets worn

Needed:

Random scrap piece of Aluminium / Stainless steel (~ 1 / 1,5mm thick)

(Acces to) a mill / cutter

5 minutes of spare time.