Team Losi Triple X-CR - Jesse Robbers

There are some setup "ranges" like "white-yellow" springs or "hubs middle-back" type of a thing. What that means is to consider trying the changes within the range(s) first before moving onto other changes, they should be all you need from track to track to get the car balanced depending on it's grip level and type.

Front:

long arms,
shocks #2-outside
camber link #2-a/1-2 washers
orange springs
30wt oil
molded 56 pistons
31mm "droop"
plastic pivot + 1/4oz
spindles down
.030" spindle stud shim
-1 camber
1/2* toe-in, 24mm ride height
battery forward
short neck ball stud on steering rack.

Rear:

short arm
hubs back, #3-b/3 camber link
shocks #2-middle
white spring
17.5wt oil
molded 57 pistons
.090" limiting (is like 39-41mm "droop")
steel cvd's/diff
3* anti-squat (.020" shim = 1*)
23mm ride height
-1/2 camber

JR Z-1 radio
JR 8800S servo
Novak GTX speedo
Trinity motors/batteries.

***The dogbones can give more steering on higher bite tracks and be better in bumps on rougher tracks as they will slide over/not catch ruts as bad as cvd's do. Moving the battery back .050-.100" is great to get a little bit more rear grip and make the car react faster. On tracks like SRS/Hot Rod try changing the rear shocks to (#2-outside, white, zero limiting + unscrew shocks 1 turn, 667 piston, 20wt oil).