Associated RC10 Worlds Review! Rear Suspension: Bag E
Here’s the fourth post of our complete build and review of the RC10 World’s Car from Team Associated!In this step, we’ll be adding the rear suspension arms and uprights, plus the drivetrain to the car. If you missed the start, we began with a complete unboxing (including a 20+ minute video at the end!), just click here to read through it, then carry on with the steps (linked at the bottom of each build post) and catch up!
You can also get a quick (and shorter) review of the build and run in the October 2014 edition of Radio Race Car magazine, who organized this review in partnership with RC Racing TV! We’d also like to thank CML Distribution for supplying the kit! Ready now? OK, let’s go!
The first couple of steps in this part have you attaching the lower arms and pivot blocks, then assembling the driveshafts, or CVAs. That’s a ‘constant velocity axle’, to you and me!
Then, we’ll build the uprights and install the CVAs. Nothing too strenuous! DON’T LOOK AT THE TURNBUCKLES YET.
And here’s the parts we’ll be using. A pretty innocuous-looking bunch, we’d say!
We used an expensive scale model sprue cutter for this step, but you can use whatever you have lying around and follow it up with some sandpaper. The next step will show you why…
See the arm on the left? The sprue leftovers have been shaved off. The arm on the right is as close as we could get with a normal pair of side-cutters. That 0.5mm remnant of plastic is enough to make the suspension on the RC10 World’s (any of the tub chassis RC10s actually) bind and rub and make your racing life hell. Shave that plastic off!
Make sure you install the Left and Right side pivot blocks (or arm mounts, or whatever you want to call them) on the correct side of the car. The letters should be pointing up anyway, so you can know your shame should you mix them up!
There’s a bit of slop in the suspension, but that’s not a bad thing – slop is good when you’re talking vintage off-road. You can tighten things up with the super-thin washers you can get for touring cars…but that would make you a touring car racer, gross!
Again, be gentle but firm with these gold screws. They can snap if you’re too forceful!
That’s the lower arms installed, then!
Greasing up the CVA bones is pretty simple – put some lube on the inside to start with.
Some blue threadlock goes on the grub screw.
When you put the insert in the drive bone, make sure you can see the hole where the pin needs to go.
Add the axle, insert the pin and slide the locking ring over the pin.
We’ve never added CA glue to a driveshaft before, but that’s what the instructions say!
Whew – that’s another step completed.
Now for the uprights! I don’t remember using this insert way back when…
Add the bearings, slip three washers over the axle and stick it through.
Use a pair of pliers to gently put the roll pin through the axle.
And the uprights are done!
Oh way, gotta put the ball ends in – a drop of threadlock on the back end to keep the nut in place should do the trick.
And the plastic driver makes another appearance.
NOW the uprights are finished!
Install, add hinge pins and e-clips and Robert’s your father’s brother!
Job’s a good ‘un!
For a video review of these steps, check out the video below!
And in case anyone wants another look at the little bugger who interrupted our shoot…
