Associated RC10 Worlds Review: Installing the Transmission! Bags D & DD
Here’s the fifth post of our complete build and review of the RC10 World’s Car from Team Associated!We’re carrying on with the rear end of the car and installing the transmission along with the rear shock tower and bulkhead. If you missed the start, we began with a complete unboxing (including a 20+ minute video at the end!), just click here to read through it, then carry on with the steps (linked at the bottom of each build post) and catch up!
You can also get a quick (and shorter) review of the build and run in the October 2014 edition of Radio Race Car magazine, who organized this review in partnership with RC Racing TV! We’d also like to thank CML Distribution for supplying the kit! Ready now? OK, just click Continue!
So we start this step of the build with just a handful of parts, nothing too crazy! The rear bulkhead (which AE say you can trim the outer holes off of to get the authentic World’s Car look) is the only piece in white if you ignore the body post, wing tubes, a few screws, the first graphite part and the rear fiberglass shock tower.
The first step is putting the shock mounting screws through the shock tower. I’ll admit, I used a power drill here, it made things MUCH easier.
Putting the tower mounting screws into the nylon of the bulkhead was pretty easy, though.
This is the back end of the bulkhead – note how the screws all are uniformly sunk under the rear side of the bulkhead. This tells you you used the right screws! If they’re sticking out, or you can’t see the ends, you need to check the screws and use the correct ones.
By this stage of the build, the plastic 4-40 wrench had worn out so I had to VERY CAREFULLY use a pair of pliers to install the ball ends. One mis-step and that’s a scratched ball end and a trip to an online shop (meaning a wait of a few days to get the replacement).
We actually missed this part in the instructions, so we had to take the car apart and re-take many of the following pictures – not sure if this is a ‘danger point’ or just trying to go too quickly, but it is very hard to put the ball ends in place with the bulkhead installed!
Screwing in the aircraft aluminum screws…be careful here, I heard from more than one World’s Car owner that said this re-release had a bad batch of screws. Of course, if you do break one you can ring up AE or your AE distributor, but I wouldn’t want to have to remove the screw!
Bolting in the side of the chassis to the bulkhead, make sure you’re using the right screw again. When we built the gold tub car, much time was spent trying to figure out why we had the wrong screws left for the rest of this build step! You can see in the video at the bottom of this post what the ends of the screws should look like when this part is complete.
Actually attaching the transmission to the chassis. Because the transmission is a high-stress area, this step uses the high-quality YFS screws that RC car designers really like.
Finally, graphite! This graphite piece substantially stiffens up the rear end of the car, making it perform much better on the track. Still uses that solid chunk of nylon for a body post, though.
We were a bit of a nerd here and installed these bolts in a star fashion: top-right, bottom-left, top-left, bottom-right. It probably doesn’t matter, but it makes us feel ‘racy’!
WING TUBES!
Attaching the motor plate to the rear end of the chassis. Use threadlock here! Blue threadlock.
And this step is done!
Looking pretty good, we’d say.
The front side is where the battery slots in – this design is still used on many buggies and trucks today!
For a video review of these steps, check out the video below!
