CASTER
- I run way less caster then most, on entry through mid it’s more of a smoother and direct steering feel, while on exit it’s numb which is nice for high speed flowing layouts, but with that I run about 10 degrees of kick up, through the pills
DIFF HEIGHTS
- I’ve messed with a good amount of these on this car and here’s what I’ve pretty much found
• 0 Diff height feels all around the best, keeps the car flat, even at 15 ride height it’s pretty much my base
• 1 diff height, messed around with it in the front to get the car to roll a little more and steer a little more off the front end, seems like 0 still seems best but that’s just for me.
• 2 diff height, off power and this goes for +1 as well it gets the car unsettled coming off jumps and well, you don’t want that, so keeping it at 0 just makes life way easier
AXLE HEIGHTS
- the only two I’ve messed with in the front are honestly +1 and +2, if you want the car to be a little more direct, +1 is definitely the way you wanna go, it’ll turn on a dime, but won’t sit into the track flat, so when grip goes up it’s time to raise that thing! +2 keeps the car flat, with a little less steering, making life way easier when traction gets high.
- rear axle height, pretty much playing with dogbone bind at this point,
0 = flat, no bind, less support on power
1 = little bind, more support on power, not as stable
2 = in my opinion, the best feel for support, grip, stability, and bind
3 = keeps the car FLAT, and for 13.5 it may not be able to clear the bigger jumps some of these tracks have due to the bind, but keeps the car super flat and easy to drive, if you’re into that.
SHORTER WHEEL BASE
Now this is something we played with on the B64 and I never really understood why until I did most of the trial the tribulation on my own
- Something I felt that the car lacked was rotation off power, I’d messed with diff oils and such, and pills but I felt like the car needed to drive shorter, it felt long, and well I thought about taking 2mm off the front of the arm and the results spoke for themselves, making it easier to push harder through the 180s and the short shoots on most of the layouts of today’s era. Only thing you gotta do is space the top of the shock 2mm to get the same shock angle back, but it’s something I really enjoyed and wanted to bring this fourth to everyone!
Here’s some pictures with any questions or concerns I’m more then happy to answer or help out, all of this is based on my opinion and what I’ve tested out at SDRC Raceway, which is a super high bite to medium bite surface.
- Matty G
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