What's up, ladies and gentlemen? Welcome back to the channel. Today, we are going to be going over my B7.1D platform two wheel drive buggy baseline setup options and the tunes that I made to the car throughout the SDRC 2026 Roar 10 scale off-road dirt nationals that ended up finishing second overall on the podium just shy of the win.

Let's jump right into it. Starting with the center of the car, we have the Rei RT20007A shorty servo. We have the REI 610RC. We have the Rei SG7 Zapper battery with 20 g of weight underneath it and the battery is in the middle position. Um, those two settings are all pretty standard for me. We have the REI M4 7.5 turn motor and this is all mounted on the minus4 short chassis option.

Moving on to the setup of the vehicle top to bottom. Starting with the front end, we have the front shocks mounted middle locations top and bottom. Pretty much always stays the same on a surface like this for me. using the narrow pivots that come in the kit. We have the plus 2.5 kickup option right now with 0 millimeters of bulkhead shims between the bulkhead and the chassis. We have 1 mm of of ball stud washers in the center position on the front ball stud mount. All these settings are pretty standard for me. I don't normally stray from these settings.

Now, a tune that I made throughout the event was the caster system. We have a B6.1 caster block. Another tune that I made throughout the event was I normally run axle height two in the front. We dropped it down to one to get a little bit more steering and more forgiveness in the bumpy sweeper. I thought that was a good change.

The caster system insert here is a plus 2.5. Pretty standard for me. Sometimes I'll mess around with that a little bit, but plus 2.5 is a pretty good happy medium setting. Here we have the inside hole for the outer camber m link mount. Here also pretty standard for me. We have the HT plus1 steering plate. Very standard for me. 0 mm of of ball washers right there. Standard as well.

Now, a tune, another tune that we made throughout the event is I started with a oneup yellow front spring. Now running a oneup red, one rate softer. Again, just trying to get a little bit more steering. Similar idea as dropping the front axle. And another tune we made was we dropped the front shock oil from 30 to 27 as another attempt to try to just get the front tires to be gripping the dirt a little bit better. And I thought this was a small step in the right direction as well.

Moving on to the rear end settings of the car, we have the new B7.1 threegeear transmission still with the motor forward position. That has been the preferred setting for the natural dirt surfaces on the B7.1 platform for me. And we actually have the original height shock towers front and rear. So that is the 92431 rear tower and the 92430 front tower. Those are the OG non minus2s. I just think that they produce a little bit more traction and have a little bit more body roll. So that's why I prefer those towers. They can be harder to drive, but for me, more grip is preferred. We have the OneUp white rear spring.

This is a tune that I made throughout the event. I normally run the AE 13 mm white rear spring, but I switched to the OneUp white spring, and I thought that it had a little bit more corner speed.

Now, not quite as forgiving to drive, but I was able to get the lap times down a little bit better. Uh, we have the shock in the second from all the way leaned in position here. That's pretty standard for me. Sometimes I'll stand it up one hole, but normally it stays right here. And on the bottom of the shock, we have it mounted in the middle hole position. That's also standard for me.

Also, rear end, we're still running the narrow pivot, the one that comes with the kit. The uh we are not running the kit arm and hub. We are running the arm and hub that comes with the original B7.

So, it's a shorter arm configuration and the hub offset is slightly different. I think that this rear end setting, these parts do provide a little bit more corner speed. It's not quite as stable as the new stuff. So, if you're looking for the car to be easier to drive, I would stick with the new B7.1 kit part options. But if you need a little bit more corner speed through those 180s, then these parts are still a great option for you to try. Now, we have 5:13 5 minutes, 13 seconds another tune that I made throughout the event. Moving on to the camera link, we have 2 and 1/2 mm of shimming here. I 5:21 5 minutes, 21 seconds think this is a very sensitive um tune for the car. I started with 2 mil and I just needed a little bit more corner 5:29 5 minutes, 29 seconds speed. So, I added a/ mil shimming right here and made the rear camber link slightly shorter and I thought that that helped with the corner speed. We have a 5 mm rear hex. Sometimes I'll run a six.

I actually tested a six throughout the event to try to gain more stability, but I thought that the 5 mil rear hex had the best rear traction overall. The six was a little bit more slidy. [snorts] The hubs are wheelbase shimming is middle on the hub and middle on the arm.

Now, that is standard for me. It doesn't really change. The rear axle height is at two as always. I don't really run anything other than two on natural dirt surfaces. As well as the diff height at two, I match the axle height. So, two and two. That is pretty standard for me.

As well as 2 mm of ball stud height on the outer of the hub here. I I almost always run 2 mm right there. That doesn't change much. Continuing on with the rear end settings of the car, the rear shock package, we have a 2 by 1.9 piston at 2.5 millimeters thickness. I almost always run that piston unless I want the car to soak up a little bit more bumps or if I need it to be a touch more forgiving, I'll run a 9 by20. But the 2x9 is pretty standard for me.

And now another tune that I did make throughout the event was I had center center pills to start the event and I thought that the grip was just a little low at this race. So what I did is I dropped the pills from center center to.5 down and.5 down. And what that did was it just gave me a little bit more rear end traction. And I thought it also landed better as well, just cuz when you land, the rear end grip the dirt a little bit better and it was just easier for me to drive and I could really lean on the throttle and trust that it wasn't going to break free and slide. So if you need more traction, you can always lower those pills. And the rear camber link, I always like to run it narrow, like long setting right here, typically always with 1 millimeter. Sometimes I'll run zero millimeters if I want the rear end to feel a touch stiffer.

But this is a pretty standard setting for me. It does have a little bit more turn in and stability. So I think that it helps for corner speed and lap times, but it has been told to me that that setting is a little bit harder to drive.

So um be aware of that when you are making that adjustment. Now we have as well the new lens bodies 7in wing in the back for maximum traction.

And that is pretty much all the rear end settings. As far as the tire and body option, we have the Hotra lens bodies, Urus 2D body, the heavyweight one. And for tires, we have the Hotra white compound slick V1s in the front and rear. The front inserts are glued to the rim and the rears are not. We also glued the front sidewalls to make the car not flip as easily on the high grip surface.

There you have it, ladies and gentlemen. That is the baseline options as well as all the setup changes that I made throughout the event at the Roar Nationals. We ended up having a great race car. Came home second place just shy of the title. And uh hopefully you can use this video, use it on your next club race, big race, and uh utilize the information to get the job done out there and maximize your experience with your B7.1D platform. And we'll catch you on the next video.