Over the past few months you may have noticed we have been running the lay-back transmission / shocks forward outdoors on our B6.1Ds in Australia. I've previously posted stand-up transmission setups for low grip / bumpy tracks, but we have found that for track conditions where it is smoother / faster (typical at larger events) the layback carries more corner speed, jumps better and still has good traction. The younger drivers in particular really like it, with our young gun AE racers Lachlan Munday, Jordan Isergin, and Lachlan Donnelly all having wins at larger events here with this setting this year.

A few notes we have found:

  • Dremel 2mm off the front of the rear arms and space the arm forward. This helps a lot with forward traction. I used 2 spacers from the B64 arms. Thanks Chad Donnelly for the tip. I use the long rear shock ends to stop the arm from hitting the spur gear at full compression.
  • Generally we start with a V1 white front / V1 black rear spring (b hole) but if its higher grip try the V1 green spring at the rear.
  • Brass C is used most of the time. I also like running the c block 1up / 1 in for a narrower rear track and more squat to help rear grip.
  • We have found using the JConcepts Inc battery brace (run loose) or the o-ring battery brace by Bezerk RC to give more grip.
  • Rear toe angle is critical to match to the tyre type. With pins / open cell run 4deg, bars 3.5 deg and web / maze tyres run 3deg. Usually I will run a slightly higher rear roll centre with pins (less washers on the inner camber link -3mm with webs and 2 or 1mm with pins on a softer track).
  • Front tyre depends on the track, but i like open cell front tyres if you're running open cell rear. Rips balance the car if its dusty, webs if its grooved.
  • Set the slipper so the front tyres just dont lift off the ground. If they lift off during a slipper test its too tight. I like the feeling of the LCF slipper pads, and the HTC 3 pad setup is worth trying.
  • In lower grip i use the plastic front bulkhead, alloy if it grooves up and you want more corner speed
  • If the track has tighter corners you want to straighten up from more quickly, use the flat front arms with leaa front droop. If the track has flowing corners and you want more corner speed, gull fronts with a little more front droop help.
  • I really like the JConcepts #P2 body as it gives a lot of downforce front and rear. I also like the high mount front wing as I find it steers better in lower grip.
You need to change your driving style compared to the stand-up. With the lay-back you need to push harder into the corner carrying more corner speed, and be smoother on the throttle on the way out of the corner.

If the track is really loose, you may find you need to run brass D or even move shocks rear. If that's quicker, you may find the stand-up will work better. But so far after testing it at 4 of our tracks (that were all well prepped with decent traction) this is the basic setup we have found to work well so far.

Thanks to all of the Team Associated Australia drivers who have contributed to the feedback of this setup.

PS: make sure to check out the weight bias of the 6.1D with different settings


R. Munday