After driving a prototype car since TITC earlier this year, finally the long-awaited MS2.0 is here!

As per usual, the quality and finish of the Yokomo is second to none. This car certainly feels even more refined vs previous models and is up to the latest “specs” in the touring car world right now.

Below I will share some build tips and thoughts for all MS2.0 owners (or future) owners. Going in order of the manual -

- Now that the spool is aluminium, I recommend to use thread lock on the spool cup screws, and the small screws that hold the pulley on as these are not frequently checked items. The same goes for the small screws in the new aluminium rear diff to hold the pulley.

- For the rear diff, I recommend starting with 5k for modified, 4k for 13.5 and 3k for 21.5 racers. The manual says 1.5g of oil, but I would put 1.2-1.3g maximum.

- For the centre pulley, I used a 1up Racing countersunk washer (820009) as the outer diameter matches the size of the bearing. This prevents any movement in the bearing. I also used the provided shim on the outside of the bearing, not the inside as described in the manual.

- Mark the diff cams so it's easier to see, I used a silver sharpie for this. Changing diff tension is super easy now with the half upper bulkhead design. For Modified you will need to tighten the tension 2 “clicks” from centre front and rear.

- For the rear shock mount, thread lock the grub screw that holds the pin in for the active rear shock mount. Also, thread lock the grub screw in for the shock mounting for the angle of the shock.

- For the anti-roll bars the front is similar to before, but the rear design is quite different to before. The angle and leverage points are very different. I have gone straight to the harder 1.2 mm rear roll bar for this reason for modified.

- The new top decks and screws are fantastic and now are super free with the screw design. Make sure to use the black one closest to the centre pulley.

- The upper links that were an option before on the MS1.0, are now included in the kit. The long link design I have been using for some time works very well. On the outer links, I have decided to once again “glue” the two links together instead of using the e clip to hold them together. This removes any unwanted slop and reduces the height of the outside link if you cut off the unused material. You may also use shims under the E clip to reduce any unwanted movement as an alternative. Make sure to set the caster first if you are going to glue them!!

- The new aluminium front and rear hubs are a really nice design. Make sure to put the little 2x6mm screw in the correct way on the bottom, as the thread is only on one side of the hub.

- A general reminder is the check the correct ball studs are used at this point of the build, as there are a mix of “long” and “short” neck ball studs. There is a 1.5mm height difference so it's important to check you have the correct ones in the correct places.

- For the steering, it now mounts off the newly designed servo mount, which is really cool. The kit says to add 1.5mm shims under the steering bell crank posts, but I have only put 0.5mm to reduce bump steer. This is something to further test.

- The shocks are almost the same as the MS1.0, but the new softer bladder is included in the kit. This results in easier building process. I still recommend putting a 1mm hole in the shock cap on the back side.

- The kit supplied springs and 2.4 front, 2.5 rear. This may seem strange to some but with the new geometry in the rear, the rear spring needs to be harder than before.

- For the rear body posts I recommend drilling a vertical hole with a hand drill. This makes it much easier to get body clips in and out if using RCM/INOV8 style mounting. Start with 1.0mm and then use 1.4mm to finish it.

Enjoy the build everyone, and any questions please let me know!

A big thanks to all the companies who support me, its going to be a massive month with two on-road races (Hudy Series and '25 SA State titles) back to back, followed by the IFMAR Buggy World championships!