I'm running the Orion R10.1 Stock ESC (since I have to run 13.5 blinky at my local track)
Dynamite 13.5
Spektrum DX4R Pro Transmitter
Spektrum SR2000 Micro Race Receiver
Mylaps Hybrid transponder
Spektrum 6240 Servo
Yeah Racing Motor Fan
Protoform LTCR 190mm TC body
Thunder Power 6000mAh 70C Velocity packs
Build is pretty straightforward, no major issues. Biggest important thing is to make sure the main bulkheads front and rear are oriented the right way. They capture the bearings for the sway bars, so just make sure the lip is on the proper side. Manual is pretty clear here. One other issue I had with mine was the hinge pins being a bit tight...not a big deal, just take some mother's polish (or your choice of metal polish) and give them a good polish. Just make sure the arms are free and drop under their own weight.
I'd also start out building the rear end with the standard setup instead of the ARS. ARS is cool, but standard suspension will work better for most tracks. Unless your local track is super smooth, build it with the standard rear end, and not the ARS.
Since you're going 17.5, I'd recommend picking up the white "low friction" belts. Definitely seem to free up the gear train a lot. I'm running 13.5 blinky, and installed the white belts. Seem to be pretty good, did a quick test run in the driveway to get the steering trim setup, and to start to scrub in the tires, and no belt skipping issues...will report back on this once I have more time on it.
Also forgot to mention that the car comes with a 48p spur. Most people (in the US at least) run 64P for on road cars. If you want to run 64P you'll need a new spur. Since you're running 17.5, you probably ought to pick up a smaller spur anyway. If you go to 64P, something in the neighborhood of 96T 64P is in the ball park for 17.5 blinky.
Basic hex tools really:
1.5mm
2.0mm
2.5mm
3.0mm
4mm Nut Driver
Thats really about it...of course you can get optional stuff like shock stands or whatever to assist, but the basics are above. I assume you're familiar with setting tweak, but if not do a little research and learn how to make sure every think is accurate as far as tweak goes, but essentially you'll just lay the chassis on a flat hard surface and tighten the top deck screws. Just make sure the chassis is flat and true. If you hit a board, probably best to double check tweak.
Here's a pro/con video if you have the time to watch. I list some of the issues I had building in here, but honestly its all pretty minimal. Just make sure everything that is supposed to move moves, and stuff that's not doesn't!
