Step 1 - Differential and spool
Make sure the cross shaft drops nicely into the diff case, you may need to remove a little flashing on the end of the cross shaft to do this.
Make sure the pips are cut off the gears when you remove them from the moulding tree.
Check the gears spin freely on the cross shafts.
I pre lube the o rings with the diff oil before installing.
Make sure to add the correct amount of oil, 1.5g as per the manual. I am starting with 5000 as per kit oil.

Spool...
Make sure you clean the centre axle with degreaser (brake cleaner) and also degrease the screws that require threadlock. This will make sure the threadlock works better.
Make sure all thos screws are super tight on the spool!

Chassis - always check that it is perfectly flat.
Of course XRAY chassis are perfect but do not forget to check, good habits to have
I keep checking on the HUDY tweak board as i add things to the chassis to be fully confident it is going together as expected, i have zero doubt but again habits from the past.

Step 2 - Suspension arms The new arms are incredible! Awesome job Martin Hudy
Nothing to really say apart from just take your time and make sure everything is installed correctly.
Tolerances are unbelievable.
I always add some graphite grease to the droop screws on assembly to make future adjustments easier but i dont think its required on here as the plastics are perfect!
1 little tip is when you set the grub screw length to 4mm you can use a pair of shims to get it correct, little bit quicker than measuring.
Its also important to use the silver shims that have a countersunk inner edge when using the 1.5mm chassis. Super nice touch from XRAY.

Step 3 - centre transmission
A few extra tips here in this section.
1 grease your layshaft pulley! Super important step as without it the car will develop a strange clicking that you will struggle to get rid of, do this now and it will never happen.
I always use the circlip on the layshaft, o ring is fine but you run the risk of it eventually breaking over a long time without maintenance.
I use the option weights on the motor mount, this car is much lighter than the previous model so i am guessing i will require alot of weight to be slapped on (even with 17.5) this puts it in the best place, low down in the centre.
I have fitted a 92t spur gear for 17.5 stock racing (next weekend at MICC - Midland Indoor Carpet Championship)
You xan see the extra machining on the motor mount and bulkheads which allows regular hardware to be installed on the 1.5mm chassis, this is epicly cool and such an important detail, well done again Martin Hudy.
The obly exception to the hardware is the lower shock mount screws, it just wasnt possible to add the required details to fit the spacers under them so the sepcial screw is needed....and included!
I am starting with low diff position and i have gone 1 looser than middle front and rear on the belt tension. I add a silver pen dot to the bearing hub as seen in the photos which helps me to make easier adjustments track side.
I also like to check that everything spins freely so i assemble sub sections and check like in the below video. This car is a dream to build

Step 4 - steering and top deck
The steering posts have also received the extra clearance machining which is super cool.
I do like to use the optional steering screws as these cover the bearings reducing chance of getting the bearings dirty/full of carpet etc.
I recommend building turnbuckles with the graphite grease on the turnbuckle, it makes it much easier to adjust in the future, without it can be a bit of a pain.
You have the choice of top deck screw shims or not. I chose to install them, not using them will give you more flex.
Also just in case you are not aware the 4mm turnbuckle tool fits the steering posts and allows you to use it to tighten it fully. Makes everything so much easier (been like that for years but some people may not know or be new to the brand...welcome if you are)
Super simple bag before my favourite...top arms, driveshafts and hubs

Step 5 - hubs/driveshafts/upper arms
Lots going on in this bag.
Driveshafts...make sure you degrease the rear cvd barrel and grub screw so thread lock will stick. I use a thread lock a bit like a glue stick as i find this much easier to apply than liquid threadlocks.
Make sure you take your time on the small bearings and e clips, i find them easy to do but many do not.
The front driveshafts are a work of it in simplicity, no grubscrews and they just push together. Im cery pleased my concept for those worked.
Upper arms... make sure the long grub screws in the top arms are built with graphite grease. It will make adjusting much easier in the future.
Sway bars... make sure they are flat before installing, press and hold in 2 places whilst tapping the other end. If bent then you can bend them flat, obviously these were perfecr!!!
Make sure you tighten the top arms fully, they felt tight but i had another 1/4 of a turn or so i could keep going, just make sure the are fully tight.
On to the shocks...
29 to 34

Step 6 - Shocks
Like the diff i presoak the O rings in the oil i will use (i have used kit oil) 350.
Pre threading the small shock ends can be a little bit of a help for later assembly.
Make sure there is no flashing on the shock shaft guides and pistons after removing from the tree, you get a choice of 4x1.1 or 4x1.2 mm pistons.
I like to use a little bit of graphite grease on the shock pre load adjuster o ring, not silicone. Either is ok but sometimes i find the silicone merhod can stick after a while.
Again just make sure you take your time and wait to get all the air put of the shocks.
Than install, simples

Step 7 - final assembly
I actually spent a bit of time on the front bumper as with the 1.5mm alu chassis the plastic lower part does have a 0.5mm overhang.
I line it up to the chassis and score a line with a knife in line with the chassis. I then cut it away a little at a time until it is perfectly flush with the chassis. I also opened up the 3 holes to allow the screws to sit like the bulkheads etc.
This will mean your car will have a better chance of clearing the ride height block in scrutineering. Please note you will have to use fresh parts with a 2mm chassis if you switch to carbon for example.
I apply a little bit of CA glue to the nut that sits in the front bumper, it will never pop out when you are in a rush again.
Again the Power HD GTS-2 is my servo of choice! So much power, speed and accuracy in such a strong tiny unit...epic!!
Make sure you allow your battery to move a little bit in all directions, you do not want to give the battery a chance to tweak the chassis!