The 1/10 GT class is in my opinion the best class for beginners or less experienced drivers. Thanks to the use of GT bodyshells, the cars are way easier to drive, as they are more stable and less reactive. For this reason, this class is one of the most popular ones in our region. For those who are not that smooth and gentle with the steering wheel (like myself) and sometimes use way too much steering input, I suggest to use softer progressive springs in the front which is the C2.4-2.7 instead of the kit standard C2.5-2.8. Softer springs will take away that initial response, and thus, they can use more steering lock in the corners as car will remain stable and easy to drive. Also, raising the front hub height from 0.5 to 1.0mm will help to make the car easier to drive on corner entry. Just make sure to not forget to decrease the downstop number by the same amount that you are raising the hub to retain the same amount droop in the car. 1.5 degrees front camber in low grip conditions and 1 degree in high grip instead of 2 degrees is a great solution in case you tend to steer too aggressively, which sometimes can result in the car spinning or traction rolling.

If the car is still too reactive for your liking, make sure to use more bump steer shims. I prefer 4mm (or more). Regarding shims on the front upper arms on the upper clamps, I increase them to have less camber gain. In low traction I use 2 or 3mm, and in high grip as high as 4mm.

As I am just the hobby level driver and for that reason, I do not use almost any optional parts. I use the car as it comes out of the box. But lately I found one great optional part that is very useful to me, and it is HUDY adjustable aluminum servo horn, which has part number 293414 (23T spline) and 293416 (25T spline). Thanks to the height adjustability, I am able to set the steering feel exactly how I want. Usually , pro drivers prefer to use 19mm servo horn height to achieve maximum steering response. Since I am not yet that experienced, and I am not that smooth with the steering inputs, I prefer to lower the servo horn height. The lower the servo horn height is, the less initial steering you will have and I need to turn the steering wheel more to reach the same amount maximum steering angle. A couple races ago I was using as low as 15mm height, but now, when I am improving my skills and I can handle the car better, I prefer 17mm height. But please remember that when you play with the servo horn height, always check the steering lock amount and limiter as it changes according the servo horn height.

Besides the servo horn height, I also play with the radio settings. I like to use a lot of steering expo (-40%) and in case you use a Sanwa radio, there is a great option which is called feeling. The lower feeling number you set, the less aggressive feeling the steering or throttle will have. For this reason, I prefer to use the least aggressive 1S setting on both the steering and throttle channels.

Less additive timing on the front tires compare to rear and only saucing the inside half of the front tires is a great solution in case your car steers too much at the beginning of the run. I like to use a lot of side wall glue even in lower traction conditions, as this helps me to make the car more round.

In case you are struggling with rear stability of the car when you hit the throttle trigger too hard, the best solution for me is to go to harder rear springs, as well as slightly harder rear diff oil. If the rear is sliding too much, I like to use 4 degrees of toe-in instead of the traditional 3 degrees, as well as more toe-gain shims.