Some of you have asked what specific setup changes I do to make the car work better on a tight layout.

Here's what I normally do:
  • Increase the max. amount of steering lock. By removing the 7.5mm OD shim that's mounted at the bottom of the steering rack as per the kit setting, you can achieve up to 30 deg of steering lock on the inside wheel. On this track, I've been running 28-29 degrees. This greatly helps the car to turn around small corners. Not recommended for larger tracks, since it scrubs too much speed.

  • Lower rear hub height with a low downstop value. Either 0.5mm or 1mm under the rear hub (instead of the 1.5mm which has been the base setting for most carpet tracks this season). But I still keep my rear downstop value in the 4.0-4.2 range. The increased amount of rear droop really helps the car to rotate on this type of track.

  • 2.6 rear spring instead of 2.7. Hurts the forward bite a bit, but has more mid corner steering in slow corners.

  • Less static rear toe. You can get away with as little as 2 degrees on a track like this

  • Remove the side dams from the rear wing. It makes a bigger difference than you'd think to improve rotation (at the expense of some rear stability, of course).

  • 1.2 front and rear anti-roll bars. Allows the car to roll a bit more, and increases weight transfer, which helps on this type of track.

  • Flex wise, softer is usually better. I use only 2 screws in the motor mount. I prefer either the 1.6 optional topdeck, or the split topdeck (front on front and rear on rear)
I hope that these tips and suggestions are useful to you! I am using HUDY C3-28 tires and HUDY Red additive for my practice sessions at this track (HOBBY 351 Lisboa)!


A. Hagberg