X12’25 tech tip: to reduce the built in preload on the side springs, you may want to raise the rear carbon brace by 0.5-1.0mm to completely remove the preload. Keep in mind that the top brace (which the side tubes and center dampener mount onto) will have to be raised by the same amount to have clearance. We recommend using minimum or a slight side spring preload for most conditions. - Alexander Hagberg
Some customers have reported leaking of the center dampener from the o-ring seal. This can be solved by adding a 0.1mm M3 shim in between the o-ring and the bottom cap. The o-ring puts a slight pressure onto the o-ring which helps it seal better and thus, minimizes leaking. Make sure that you tighten the bottom cap as far into the shock body as it possibly can go. I use a HUDY Multi-Tool to hold the dampener while tightening this cap.
Center dampener - Build
Pod droop - Build
Pod angle - Build
Changing camber on the X12'21-25 is done by changing the kingpins, which is done in steps of 0.5 degrees. The alternative kingpins are optional, but the best all-around option is included in the kit.
If, for some reason the camber isn't measuring perfectly to what it's supposed to, for example, on one side, or on both sides, there's a quick fix for it, which many team drivers are using. Add a 0.05 or 0.1mm shim between the kingpin and the lower arm, as pictured here.
Adding 0.05mm decreases camber by 0.25 degrees.
Adding 0.1mm decreases camber by 0.5 degrees.
Having said this, always verify flatness of the lower arm after a hard crash, and look for delamination in the outer parts. ALWAYS add CA glue around the edges to improve the durability of the lower arm in case of a hard crash.
Keep in mind that 90% of the time however, the camber is actually fine, but play in the set-up station and/or it's ball bearings can often make it difficult to make a precise measurement of the camber, which can give the perception of the camber being off when it actually isn't. Some drivers thus prefer using a set-up wheel and a traditional camber gauge such as the HUDY 107761 or 107750.
The 0.1mm shim pictured above has part number 962042. It's the same one that's used to set droop in the front. 0.05mm shims are available from several aftermarket companies.
XRAY X12'25 tech tips, as used at the recent EFRA 1/12 European Championships by myself and several other team drivers:
- Upstop screws mounted through the rear point of the side link, fixated with an M3 nut on top. I used a 14mm round head screw with a 0.5mm shim underneath. The screw length and shimming can be adjusted to control the amount of suspension travel. Preferably a low head/flat screw should be used to prevent any contact with the ground during cornering.
The benefits of the above was: more consistent cornering, better overall feel, improved cornering speed.
- Battery max. forward. By removing the kit carbon battery backstop from in front of the battery, it allows you to move the battery a further 4mm forward. This improved drivability/on-power steering, without removing any rotation. Much recommended for any EU/ETS carpet conditions.
I fixate the battery to the chassis with a thin double sided tape such as HUDY 107876.
All of the above is shown in the pictures - let me know if you have any questions or need further details!
