How to tweak your T4
Always an important, but ever so delicate process is to tweak the car. I guide you through the basics, and through my process of doing it!
The most important part is the lifting of the suspension from each end of the chassis, and to make the necessary preload adjustment on the opposite end!
I guide you through what's new for the ARS on the T4'20!
Keep in mind that the new optional aluminium steering block (part number 302202), needs 4mm of shims below the carbon piece to be equal to having no shims on the standard plastic steering block.
The new ARS C-hubs have the following part numbers:
0 degree left/right - 302350
2 degree right - 302351
2 degree left - 302352
4 degree right - 302353
4 degree left - 302354
I guide you through the steps which I follow to prepare a brand new set of rubber tires before running them. The tires seen in the video are the HUDY C3-28 tires (803053).
As promised, I am going to talk a bit about the very important subject of tire prep. I've decided to divide this subject into two videos, for the reason that, most big events worldwide today are run with a spec additive rule, which limits the opportunity to "play" with tire prep. And thus, I will make separate video, to be released next week, which offers some guidelines for events where there is an “open additive” rule. Today, I'm going to share some basics for racing where there is a SPEC additive rule. Enjoy!
The tire additive featured in this video is the HUDY Tire Gripper Red. A very strong additive, which works well on both carpet and asphalt, particularly on low grip! Part number 106261.
This week, we’re talking about tire prep for events with an “open” tire additive rule. This means, you’re free to use any additive or cleaner – and hence – a lot more options become available. I will guide you through:
- Tire cleaning
- “Carpet” or thin additives
- Oily additives
- 2 step tire prep procedures
- Cling film instead of tissue
- The benefit of not using an additive bottle until the very end
One of the tire additives featured in this video is once again the HUDY
Tire Gripper Red. It has part number 106261. If you have any questions about the other products mentioned in this video, feel free to ask and I will reply in more detail.
Bodyshell mounting! A dreaded task for some, but doesn’t have to be, if you’re using my step by step method, it’s fairly easy to get it done correctly each time! The key is precision and patience! The video is quite long, but I promise that it’s worth a watch!
As always, feel free if you have any questions and feedback about the video – I will help with any doubts you might have.
Special thanks Alessandro Lonardi from Apaint, who painted the beautiful shell seen in this video. Thank you for your years of support!
I recommend using a HUDY Bodyshell reamer, part number 107601.
The bodyshell wheel well marking tool is available from several brands in including Schumacher, and RC KleinKram.
The sanding drum is from Protoform, part number 6103-00.
These are the types XRAY and HUDY weights that I currently use on my car. You may require more than 1 piece of the 5 and 10g tungsten weights to reach the desired weight limit. The three different weights at the top are made of tungsten, a very dense material, which allows for a compact size, with a low CG. The battery plate is the narrow stainless steel plate.
To achieve a more rearward weight bias, you may want to use the optional T-plate in brass material, as seen here.
In the pictures above, I'm demonstrating where I've put my weights on the chassis. The car which I'm currently running is built for the 1320g weight limit, which we use in Europe. The car has a carbon chassis, and an ultra lightweight bodyshell. The amount of weight needed will depend on your electronics, and type of tires used as well. Always try to mount the weights as close to the center line as possible. And depending on what front to rear weight bias you are trying to achieve.
I am using this ultra thin double sided tape from HUDY. It comes with 5 sheets in the bag, which will last you quite long. This tape is ideal for mounting weights, and even electronics, to the chassis.
When mounting the steel battery plate to the chassis, make sure that you don't apply the tape in a horizontal direction. Having the plate connected like this, will have a negative influence on the chassis flex (it will make the chassis flex less).
Instead, apply it vertically, and in two narrow strips only. This will be enough to keep it in place, and will allow the chassis to flex more.
The end result. Push it as far towards the center line as possible. I use this plate in combination with the 5200 Platin or 5300 LCG Battery packs from Sunpadow (both which weigh 245g).
Finally, I use the optional brass adjustable battery mounts to keep the battery in place. I mount the battery with tape from top (through the holders). It's important that the battery can have 1-2mm of play from front to back, to allow the battery to move when the chassis is flexing.
To add on to yesterday's video (above), I would like to present a solution to a problem which is often discussed. How can you achieve 2.5 degrees of rear toe with the rear arm in the 1 up position?
As you know, moving the suspension insert from centered to 1 out will change the toe by 1 degree. So you can use 1 up in the rear to achieve either 2 or 3 degrees of toe, BUT, there is a solution: Add 0.3mm shims under the RF (the difference in distance between centered and 0.5 insert is in fact 0.35mm, and not 0.5mm. This means that the 1 out insert is in fact 0.7mm away from center). And use the 0.5 corner up and out. This will give you the same height of RF and RR (1 up), but with 2.5 degrees of toe. See pictures for clarification.
