Tweak - Take care when tightening the bulkheads and top deck to the chassis. Rush it or crank them down too hard and you could build a tweak into the car, and at worst permanently damage the components. Slacken and retighten the lower bulkhead screws in a star pattern after you have fitted the top deck and check the chassis is true on a totally flat surface.

I always put a dab of threadlock on metal-to-metal fittings.

Diffs - I sanded down the high points off the diff pulley adaptor to make it a shade thinner to sit level with the 850 bearing when assembled. I have a sneaking suspicion it can cause a little bit of drag in the diff action, I could be completely wrong though! TOP suggest assembling the thrust in what I believe to be the WRONG way, which may cause sudden thrust failure. The spring should be close to the diff gear, the thrust should be on the untapped section by the screw head. The key to a reliable Yokomo diff is to pack the whole thrust assembly with black grease, it also makes it easier to assemble as it won't fall apart.

Installing drivetrain - you probably only need one of the plastic spacers to stop the diff moving side-to-side. I would actually prefer to use some 10mm shims (PA-101013) to get it a shade freer. I marked the eccentric rings with a silver pen on the top to make it easier to align them. I would recommend a starting tension if 1/2 for the rear belt and 3/4 loose for the front. The spur gear will benefit if mounted with 4mm shims (PA-100406).

Wheel hubs - TOP suggest two shims to the inside. I prefer one shim on the outside, one on the inside, this stops the wheel hex rubbing directly on the bearing. Check the hubs for free rotation with a wheel fitted, you may need to remove a shim or fit a thinner 5mm one (PA-100507).

Suspension - a pack of 3mm shims (PA-100305) goes a long way towards taking the play out of the suspension. Front C-hub is particularly loose (don't blame TOP, blame HPI!). Stabilizers must be assembled for free movement without play. I'm tempted to try the ZC-207A open ended links on the wishbone too.

Bumpers - because the Yokomo bumpers are built for a 3mm chassis and the Scythe has a 2mm chassis has standard, you can trim 1mm off the bottom edge of both to gain 1mm ride height for nothing! I used a Stanley knife.

Shocks - don't forget the o-rings in the threaded adjusters. Use #3 pistons. Note that the diaphragms are very soft and need to be pressed into place more than most to stop hydrolocking of the shock when assembled as the caps do not self bleed.

Setup

In terms of setup, the car seems to like running with the swaybars. I haven't had time to work out a no-swaybar setup, my guess is you would need to go a lot stiffer on the springs and mess about with roll centres too.

Build the shocks to 62mm length minimum with the standard towers, I do this by unscrewing the short shock bottoms and putting o-rings over the exposed threads to limit the uptravel. Otherwise you won't get enough droop.

Here is my current setup for Much-More 30 pre-mounts and a 19T motor on carpet. I still feel that the front is a bit too hooky, so I may go up a spring or raise the front rollcenter a little. Sorry I don't have it on a sheet...

Front: 4.75x1.4 Kit spring, 3-hole piston, #500 oil, 62mm+ shock length, middle hole on tower, outer hole on wishbone, droop gauge 5, camber link on inner hole with 2mm spacer, camber -1deg, zero degrees toe, inboard toe out 2.5deg, front suspension block spacer 0.5mm, rear spacer 1mm, ride height 5mm, 1.6mm sway bar.

Rear: 5.5x1.4 Kit spring, 3-hole piston, #350 oil, 62mm+ shock length, second outer hole on tower, middle hole on wishbone, droop gauge 3, camber link on inner hole with 2mm spacer, camber -1deg, inboard toe in 3deg, front suspension block spacer 1mm, rear spacer 0.5mm, ride height 5.5mm, 1.6mm sway bar, long wheelbase.

Diffs front and rear. Steering Ackerman kit standard. Belt tension loosest for front, medium for rear. Gearing for 19T Atlas motor - 26/78.

Follow this in conjunction with the manual.

Step 1.

Having filed the chassis, run a bead of thin CA around the edge of the chassis to help prevent delamination of the carbon fibre.

Step 11.

Check the inside of the long diff half for any mismoulding or debris. At least 3 people I know have had a problem where the thrust race has seated incorrectly leading to a diff screw failiure and damage to the diff half. This is a Yokomo moulding issue and nothing to do with TOP.

Step 18.

Tightening the diff screw. Tighten slowly and check for slip. DO NOT tighten up and back off. This method will damage the diff spring. When the diff is in the car and everything is assembled the Scythe has one of the smoothest diffs I have ever run. It runs looser than any other ball diff car if have ever come into contact with. It is so free I keep thinking that something is wrong!

Step 31.

When installing the centre pulley into the car, make sure the screw heads holding the pulleys to the spur are on the right side (imagine you are sitting in the car) this will stop the screw heads from rubbing on the drive belt. You may also have some very small rubber o rings supplied. These are to stop end float on the centre pulley. I used shims instead.

Step 33.

If you are using alloy upper bulkheads you will need shorter screws than those supplied. Also, if you add the optional outdrive sleeves you will need to shorten the ball stud that screws into the upper bulkhead.

Step 37.

Make sure you locktite the steering post to the ackerman plate.

Step 39.

Pay close attention to the how the ackerman plate fits onto the chassis. The ackerman plate may have 2 or 3 sets of holes to choose from. Check you setup sheet to see which holes are used.

Step 47.

When installing the hub carriers onto the front of the car, make sure that the hub marked left is actually on the left and vice versa (I didn't get this wrong, but 2 of my friends who should know better did!). Also install shims between the hub and the wishbone as there is some play present.

Step 56.

Shock assembly. Download any Yokomo SSG or CGM manual to find out how to build the shocks properly. I start with a shock length of 62.5mm. To acheive this, you will need to unscrew the short ball end about 2 threads. Also screw the collar all the way to the top of the body and then make a vertical mark on the collar (I use a file) in the same place on all 4 shocks, that way you can put half a turn of ride height on easily, on all corners of the car without having to use gauges.

Step 65.

Installing the shocks. The screws that hold the shocks onto the shock tower are not really long enough. I installed mine in this sequence:- Screw/shock tower/3mm plain nut/medium Yokomo shock mounting ball/3mm nylock nut.

Step 66.

I find that the tensioner is a bit naff, and at the wrong height. I added 2x 3mm plain nuts under the brass thing and the belt now rubs on the bearing.

Other bits I have fitted, based on previous racing experiences.

Yokomo SD001W wide front bumper.

This includes 2 little plastic wings that attach to the end of a wider than standard bumper. This will help prevent front knuckle and hub failiures.

Jet CYL-06. Alloy front knuckle arms.

Main reason for this is to stop tearing the screw out of the bottom of the knuckle arm. Some people find the lower screw works loose with left/right steering action.

Jet CYL-24. Alloy 4 degree front C hubs.

Standard kit ones don't survive a lot of board bashing.

Diff outdrive sleeves.

If you fit these, note that they are only meant to fit one way! There is a taper inside and they don't click onto the groove on the outdrive. Once installed they won't slide off. Make sure that your upper ball link studs don't rub on them.