Meet 'the Pig' ... my TT-01E I use with great success in the Truck class of the Tamiya Eurocup. In fact, the pig was the first ever German National Champion in the truck class in this race series 👍🏻

Content of this post:
- Chassi focus pictures
- Setupsheet as used at the race in Augsburg (indoor carpet)
- overview of used option parts
- an excerpt from the manual with annotations regarding what I do / build different. Actual amount of shims may vary depending on your specific vehicle

Disclaimer: By running the diffs the way I do the service intervalls between diff rebuilds shorten drastically. Instead of once-every-never I would generally rebuild the diff once-every-raceday. And that is with good seal grease. So if you are lazy, you might consider skipping on that and try the other 4Ps 😜

Myth debunk: they say if you shim the play out of a TT-01 it doesn't work anymore. Thats plainly false as long as you don't overshim. There is concentric play, especially in the top links, that cannot be shimmed out and needs to remain so that the suspension can fall freely under its own weight. And In order for the suspension not to bind under load there needs to be a little (0.05 - 0.1mm) back-and-forth play on the arms to allow for the concentric play and angular shift. Shimming the driveshafts is very important too because with less slop, the wheel guidance improves massively.

The general rule for suspension slop in a RC car is this:
A car with less play will always be able to generate more mechanical traction and will offer far improved and precise response. BUT the flipside of this is that the 'setup window' gets narrower and the car can become a little harder to drive. So it will be better, but it needs to be right.
I hope that you will find your truck as thoroughly enjoyable as I do.
Love
Martin & 🦁

This piece of prime pork has been brought to you by
Awesomatix
Nosram
Savox
MXLR
but especially STOCK INDUSTRIES 🎈