Edited and create by Marco (lynx75) email : lynx75 at gmail.com

Shock

I recommend zero rebound in most conditions. Only on carpet rubber tyre I use a little rebound.

Less rebound has more traction, more rebound car is better for bumpy track.

If you want to built the shock without rebound you can't use a sponge. I never use a sponge.

We normally drill a hole in the top to reduce as much as possible the rebound to 0, because the air between the bladder and the plastic can go out, also for Pro Stock class I suggest to use little rebound.

With making your shock with 0 rebound the shock shaft always goes little bit back in, it's almost impossible to make it without going back in.
Using an older bladder you might have the perfect shock with 0 rebound. I never run the sponge in the shock.

With thicker oil you can make the shock without rebound easier then with thin oil, but normally I don't go softer then 450W in any condition.
Shock position: Lay-in the shock in front give little more initial steering, less steering in the   corner. Lay-in shocks in the rear gives little more steering, more rotation less stability.

We always run the shock 61.5mm, don't really know why, Maybe because Kiyo (TRF Mechanic) always makes this length.

I use Much More blue o-ring with the standard TRF shock shim. I rebuild the shock ones every race or practise because a shock always have some leak.
I make the shocks always with one o-ring and with the plastic shim, don't use any other grease.

I never really tested 2 hole piston, I always run 3 hole and then play with the shock oil.

For indoor we always use 1 o-ring, the blue Tamiya one with little bit of rebounds, 5mm.
For outdoors I'm not sure yet, as at the worlds we absolutely run 0 rebound and we even made a hole in the top plastic to get the air out between the top and the rubber cover. I think on a bumpy track you need to run a little rebound but I'm still not sure about this.

61.5mm is from the very top till the very bottom of the shockholders.

Oil

When you run in cooler condition you should use thinner oil with softer tyres. When the track temp gets hotter go to thicker oil, same springs or softer and go to harder tyres.

All the TRF guys are using Much More oil.

For better reaction you can try softer oil or little harder springs.

You can try to stood up the rear shock one more. Or go little softer oil in rear, maybe 400.
Try 1.4mm rear sway bar.   I think Viktor used this sway bar at the LRP in the rear and he said it felt more stable.

From cold to warm weather the only thing I normally change is shock oil.
The warmer it gets the harder shock oil I use. Most races are control tyres anyway but if you have the choice of tyres always go as hard as possible when it gets more hot.

When you feel your shocks are not the same as the previous practise you should rebuild them, not every run.
When it's more hot I suggest thicker oil, 500 is very soft, try 600 or even more thick when it's hot.

Take out all the rebound in your shocks. Try 600W front and 500W rear. At my home track the RP30 tyre is working the best, it's 0.2 sec faster then Sorex 36.

Spring

A softer spring drives more easy then a hard spring and it is mostly used when it's hot, helps to avoid tyre overheating as well as run thicker oil.
A harder spring is sometimes faster but harder to drive and more tyre overheating.
A soft spring needs slightly softer oil then a harder spring otherwise the shock doesn't work good.

For low-med grip track you can try little softer spring and softer oil.

I prefer thicker oil when it's hot like in Singapore, 600-700.
Tamiya yellow is really soft and also linear spring which I don't like on asphalt. I use normally HB silver.

Outdoors we normally use HB springs as they make the car little bit more aggressive

I suggest to try HB springs, like Silver. These springs make the car more aggressive. Also make the front more narrow.

I found the Tamiya spring (white/blue) always better on carpet and better on highbite big tracks.
The HB springs seems to be little better on small/medium asphalt track with medium traction.

I think you should use the spacer with the recess on one side. I think the manual use this spacer.

For more corner speed try a harder spring. Also raise the roll centre will help. Mid turn off power, make the rear more stiff, lay in the shock.

Like Worlds in Thailand we ran HB blue spring(14Lb) with 700 oil.

Tyre

It has been a long time that I tested different inserts as all races these days are controlled tyres, wheel and  inserts. In the past we made holes to avoid tyre/insert overheating.
Normally a softer insert has little less traction then a hard insert but is better for tyre overheating.

On foam I always use same tyres front and rear. Of course you can try little harder in front if the car is over steering.

Hard to say which tyres you should use over there. I guess it's pretty hot over there so Sorex 36 is not a bad choice.
Try my basic asphalt set-up. I think the new SP version 2 speedo is a lot better then version 1, don't know about the GM ones.

With new tyres I only remove the middle ring on the tyre. Some tyres, like at the worlds with the Sweeps we used some of the green stuff ( you clean the dishes with) and remove the complete top of the rubber to get it starting better. With old tyres I never sand.

It all depends on which tyres you use and on which track surface. Most of the time we don't scrub the tyres, it's just a personal feeling.

Foam racing on carpet is not as big anymore as a few years ago, so Tamiya have other priorities. But i think foam on carpet is still very cool!

Well, with foam racing, especially on carpet you want to use a small tyre.
A smaller tyre will drive better and more easy then a big tyre. Big tyre makes the car roll more and more chance to traction roll. On carpet we cut the tyre down to 57mm.

When you run in cooler condition you should use thinner oil with softer tyres.
When the track temp gets hotter go to thicker oil, same springs or softer and go to harder tyres.

Additive

For outdoors I recommend Tyre Tweak  is still the best choice for Sorex 36 tyres and for most type of tyres and tracks, this with tyre warmer for about 20min on 60 degree.
After you take off the tyre warmer, dry the tyre with a paper and after clean the tyre a little with some motor spray, this will help your first lap a lot. Normally on asphalt always front and rear full additive. Sometimes I use tyre tweak just on it's own, sometimes after tyre tweak I dry the tyre and apply some regular additive like, CS yellow, FX2 for a couple of minutes and then make the tyre dry.
6 runs with 36R is a little fast but it depends a lot on the asphalt of course.

For indoors we never use tyre warmers.
CS yellow or LRP carpet 2 is most used at indoor races, apply the additive around 20min in the rear and 10min in front.
If you still have too much steering I can advice to apply additive shorter time on the front, always wipe off the tyre so it's completely dry going on the track.
On carpet, specially on foam I use not always full in front   but depending on how much front traction I need I apply the additive.