Edited and create by Marco (lynx75) email : lynx75 at gmail.com

The 416 WE is ready to run and no need for any option parts. If you build it with my starting set-up for asphalt it should work fine. On asphalt no rebound works very good.

The main difference between the 416 and the 416WE is the chassis and top deck.
The WE chassis has got the battery little more forward which makes the car easy to drive.
We all used the old top deck with the brace to get the rear a little stiffer for better rotation. So yes we play a lot with both chassis.

The biggest difference from the 416 and the 416WE is the chassis, and the WE version comes standard with short arm and spool which is 99% used.

In the WE chassis battery is more forward which makes the car smoother and easier to drive, less steering. When you use 5 cell try to drive the battery in the back and you will feel the car rotates way to much mid corner and exiting the corner. Battery more forward will keep the rear more stable mid and exit which drives more easy.

Most of the time I use the old 416 chassis, sometimes the WE chassis. WE is easier to drive but less steering then the old chassis. In general 90% we use the old 2.25 chassis.

Most of the time I use the WE top deck outdoors, sometimes I use indoors the double top deck with the rear brace. The rear brace makes the car more stiff in the rear for better rotation in the corner, less grip.

The reason why we not use the screw in the top deck is that it flexes more up front which gives more steering. Sometimes the car tweaks little more using the screw.

The whole winter we had a decent basic set-up which works at all track pretty good.
So when you come to a race we don't worry about any set-up changes till the track has the same bite as it will be for the race. Normally we only  play with shock oil, indoor this is between 400-500. If the car traction rolls we make it wider on the hex 1mm wider. It sounds easy but actually with this car it is easy to have the right pace all the time.

The chassis is better balanced with 6 cells and not with 5 cell. Nevertheless, it's about 40 gr. different.
Second option is to change the receiver to the battery side.
I think the drop is not set right as this different of weight left and right is minimum and should not effect the drop so much. I think you mean 1400gr with 5 cells. The best way to test if the roll bar is the same left and right is to take off the c-hub and only check with the arms. Then lift one up and check the other arm at what point it goes up. You can also try a drop gauge and measure at what height it goes up both way.

I actually ran my car ones outdoor with foams and it feels less grip then with rubber tyre so I suggest the same  top deck to use for foam outdoor. For indoor foam carpet you might have to use a thicker top deck but Tamiya has no other option then 2mm. The chatter which you get running a spool is normal, when you drive you will not notice it anymore.

With foam racing I never check downstop under the arm as with the variation of tyres diameter and ride-height you can't really tell what
number downstop you need to use.
When the car has 4mm ride height, I push the chassis in front 1mm up till the wheels get of the ground, rear is 1.5 mm. Hope this is clear enough.

With foam racing, especially on carpet you want to use a small tyre.
A smaller tyre will drive better and more easy then a big tyre, big tyre makes the car roll more and more chance to traction roll, on carpet we cut the tyre down to 57mm.

The shock-shaft with 0 rebound will not go down when you push it in. So when you built your shocks you push the shock shaft all the way up and close the cap.
61.5mm  shock is from the very top till the very bottom of the shock holders. We all ran a 3.5 Motor as it was "only" 5 cells. Our motors got around 80 degrees. I know the LRP motors get little hotter but that isn't a problem when it gets 100 degree. SP motors have bigger holes in the can which makes it run cooler and have better sound!

5mm ackermann is most used, sometimes 5.5 to get little more aggressive steering.

I use Xenon blue grease for the pin and drive shafts.

I never use grease on the outdrive, I run them dry.

Well, I like the 2413 because it's small and light.

I use standard servo saver springs, 2 piece gold and black piece.

Try to use C / C blocks in front to gain more steering.

For pro stock you should use C/C with little anti-dive (0.5mm).

I always use the 1XA block in the rear and set the toe-in by changing the rear/rear block from 1F-1D. 1XB and 1XC are more narrow and makes the car to narrow in my opinion.
You should try the shorter arms , especially on small track it will help a lot, better steering and rotation.

Well this set-up is basic set-up. With D-D and 1mm spacer the car is easy to drive with medium steering and not too much responsive on the steering. At the worlds we ran C-C to get maximum steering. For low grip track try softer springs, sometimes we also cut the topdeck to get more flex in the chassis.

You might try running D-D blocks in front, this makes the car more smooth and less aggressive.1.4mm sway bar in the rear to test.

On most of my set-ups I always use more camber in rear, better rear traction.

Higher camber link keeps the car more flat and gives smoother cornering.
1XA - 1D is good for stock, in mod you need more toe-in. When you make the wide more narrow you will increase grip but less stability front and rear.

C blocks make it much more steering as the front is more narrow. If you find this to difficult to drive, try D and B blocks so you get some arm sweep. This give less steering into corner but more in the middle of the corner. Anti-dive also gives more steering into the corner.

The 3mm and 4mm camber link shim in the rear give perfect camber change and we always use this combo on most tracks.

For tracks with a lot of traction the balance of the car is little more pushing to improve steering I suggest to narrow the car front and rear, c/c and XB/1E. Also lay in the shocks in the rear. Harder spring also helps.

My set-up of the warm-up race is very similar to the basic set-up. I raised the rear roll centre using 1mm under the arms. Shock oil 500W front and rear. Front blocks C/C with 0.5 anti-dive. Speak to you upcoming weekend in Luxembourg!

You can try 1mm roll centre in the rear for better rotation.
1C/1C blocks in front for more steering in the short corner. Also look around what bodies the fast guys are running, as for example the LTC-R body might have a small advantage on small technical tracks.

I'm a little confused about your 1534 gr. As my 416 weight around 1400 gr. with titanium screws. When using JB   inserts it's way under 1400 gr.

In Europe the most weight I need to add is approx. 30 gr, so I always put it on the battery side to get better balance. I think weight of the car always needs to be in between the front and rear tyres.

I just read the whole ballast/weight posts and I think it's simple. On the 416 you need to add maximum 30 gr of weight depending on which class you run. Use 5 cell or lipo put all the weight on the battery side till you reached the minimum weight limit. When using 6 cell add the weight in front of the car to get "easy drive" in the back if you need more steering.

Attached some pics of my car with the steering. I have angled the servo saver little bit to the inside.
I use Ko Servo 2365. (Vedere le foto allegate nella cartella)

At this moment I use the 2365 because it has little more kg, makes the car little smoother to drive and keeps the steering better over the 2413.

I use the servo saver arm from Square, same as Marc. You have to replace ones a while the servo saver plastic and ring(3).If this still doesn't help you can try another servo saver or only servo horn if you really need "no play".

I can't really explain the right driver technique, I think every driver has it's one technique. With the coming of   the spool in Touring car most of the good drivers had to change their technique by using more brake and more from corner to corner driving, not smooth anymore.

1. Steering expo between -25 and -30
2. Brake expo 0
3. Brake 100%

Before a important race I always rebuild my car completely and check all parts. Then I built my car with a starting set-up which I think will be the best set-up to start with. Before the race I practise a few batteries at my local track to "run in" the car and set belts, Diff and check steering throw left/right.

Most parts I replace ones in a while are drive-shafts, drive shaft blades, belts, suspension ball, spool outdrives, every big race I also renew the plastic parts. Diff plates, diff thrust bearing.
(Jilles answered me)

Arms and other plastic parts I change after some months or for a big race. As well as ball cups, suspension ball.

I raised the front to get a smoother feeling in the round corners of the ETS track (Vedere foglio setup).
2.5mm chassis works also better on high speed track like this weekend, better corner speed.
Marc ran all weekend with his shocks one more in, so I tried it on Sunday morning and improved lap times.

I think 1435 gr. is not too bad. We are normally around 1400 gr.  with a light weight body, Titanium screws. Shorten the wires as much as possible, that for sure helps the weight.

It's better to have you car balanced with adding 20gr.

Jilles your outdoor rubber set up, really makes my car handled very good yesterday in my National Series.
I noticed my car very understeer until I change my rear spring with Tamiya blue with 700cst shock oil (fr/rr).

For balance I think it's a good idea to put the receiver on the other side. The only negative thing is all the wires going across the belts and so on.

Raise the roll centre in the front and rear by 0.5mm this increase corner speed. Harder spring in front might help as well.

The reason I used 0.5mm and 1mm front is to get better corner speed.
I tried first 0mm and 0,5mm but the car didn't kept the speed in the fast corners as good as with 0.5mm and 1mm.

I normally use 4mm shim under the bulkhead and 3mm under the suspension block.
When I want to change the roll centre I always do that by changing it under the arms.

I have found that 4mm (bulkhead) and 3mm (suspension block) spacer in the rear always works best in any condition.

We do run a lot of shims on the top shaft (4 or 5 0,2mm), normally little more on the right so the spur gear centre little to the left which make the belts run more in the middle of the pulley.

When the traction comes up you might have to stiffer the chassis, go to harder springs. The only problem when the grip comes up is to get traction roll.
I'm not sure what tyres and inserts you are running but this can also be the case.
Last thing you can try to raise the lower arms by adding 0.5 shims and raise the front camber links by 0.5.

I never really played with shims for bump steer, the standard 0.5mm works best in my opinion. I will do some tests for this at the Euros track in Luxembourg in a few weeks.

Droop is measured under the bottom of the wishbone.
Wheelbase is set normally 2mm front and 3mm rear as most of the set-ups of me are. When you make it more long, you get more stable car, short more steering. For example if you leave the wheelbase the same you only move all the arms 1mm more back, you will have more weight in the front of the car which makes the car more under steer but easier to drive.
I have tried this many times but I always come back to the standard bushing position. I can't really tell what it does. I think a higher point on the front camber link gives smoother steering.

When I check the camber I put my car on a set-up board with battery and I check the camber. I also rotate the wheels because most wheels are not perfect straight. I don't push it down or anything else.

I think it's better with higher camber links. I know from our tests in Bangkok when it was hot that the tyres overheated when using more angle on the camber links and it made the car to aggressive and not smooth to drive.

I always run the camber link pretty much level, this keeps the rear more stable entry and exit the corner. Should work the same on the TA-05.

Adding shim under the block give the car little more rotation without the 0.5mm the rear is in my opinion to stuck.

Yes, front droop I measure under the front arm. I suggest to use more downstop to get more easy drive. So 6mm or   more front droop.

For more corner speed try a harder spring, also raise the roll center will help. Mid turn off power, make the rear  more stiff, lay in the shock.

When there is enough traction I always lay down the rear shock to get little more rotation, I always use middle hole in front. Roll center is 99% same as my basic set-up, always works best.

I always use swaybars. Sometimes I test without swaybars but I always find the car to loose in the middle of the corner, less stable.

I never understood the rebound stroke line in the set-up sheet but I think it's how much mm the springholder is tight down on the shock.

I don't use oil or clean the TRF ball bearings, I run them out of the box. Most of the bearings I use for long time.