Chris runs through a complete Bag A to J build, giving you tips and tricks along the way for a smooth assembly, as well as some of his favourite option parts!
0:00 Intro
0:42 Unboxing
2:49 Bag A - Gear Diff & Spool
4:29 Bag B - Driveshafts & Layshaft
5:16 Bag C - Hub Assembly
8:32 Bag D - Lower Arms
11:17 Bag E - Carbon Chassis Prep & Bulkheads
16:35 Bag F - Upper Arms & Rockers
17:31 Bag G - Anti-Roll Bars
20:43 Bag I - Shock Absorbers
22:09 Final Notes
23:26 Outro
Chapter 1: Intro
0:03 / 3 seconds: Hi guys, Chris Mitchell here for RC Maker to take you through the build of your brand new SP2 touring car. I'm super excited for this. This is 2 years
0:15 / 15 seconds: in the making since the initial release of the SP1. All of the feedback and development that's gone into that car has now culminated in the creation of
0:22 / 22 seconds: the second generation car from Ryan Maker. Australian designed and owned.
0:26 / 26 seconds: This is super exciting. Now, this isn't going to be a handholding exercise, and I'm not going to take you through every single step at Nauseium, but we're going to go through the manual, build the car
0:35 / 35 seconds: straight out of the box, and go through some tips and tricks on how you can get the most out of your SP2 right from the get- go. So, like any good unboxing
Chapter 2: Unboxing
0:44 / 44 seconds: video or build video, we start with the unboxing. And we're going to slide this sleeve off of here and get rid of that down to the side. And then the most
0:52 / 52 seconds: satisfying part of this is breaking the lovely seal. That's just oof. There we go. Knocked the camera in the process.
1:00 / 1 minute: We're going to get one go at that. And inside the box, we are going to find So, inside the big bag full of little bags, we have them all labeled nice and easy.
1:09 / 1 minute, 9 seconds: These will correspond to the manual, which one of the first things you can do here, grab the QR code, download the manual. If you like it like me, you can
1:17 / 1 minute, 17 seconds: print it out and then you have a hard copy you can refer to, or you can just download it onto your phone or laptop and use that on there. A nice set of SP2
1:25 / 1 minute, 25 seconds: stickers. There's the new logos. Nicely done. And of course, this kit is the carbon chassis kit. So, we're going to be building the carbon version, but you may have ordered the steel or the
1:34 / 1 minute, 34 seconds: aluminium version and have a slightly different chassis. Through the bags, bag A gets us started here with the diff and spool pulley. Bag B takes us through
1:43 / 1 minute, 43 seconds: what appears to be the motor mount and drive shafts. This makes me excited. The front drive shafts are pre-built, so we're going to save a lot of time and uh
1:51 / 1 minute, 51 seconds: busted fingertips right there. Bag C takes us through the hub builds. That's pretty cool. And bag D will then get us
1:59 / 1 minute, 59 seconds: into the suspension arms. Uh onto bag E will take us through bulkhead assembly. We've got the belts in there as well.
2:06 / 2 minutes, 6 seconds: Bag F will see us onto the upper arms, push rods, and rockers. And then bag G into the anti-roll bars and associated equipment there. Bag H is pretty simple.
2:16 / 2 minutes, 16 seconds: It's your body post mounts and your front bumper. Bag I is the fun one.
2:21 / 2 minutes, 21 seconds: That's going to be our shock build later on in the manual. And then a couple left here. Bag J. Just some extra screws, bits and bobs, couple of body pins, and
2:28 / 2 minutes, 28 seconds: some wheel nuts. And included in this one as well is it's an unlabeled bag, but that is your front lower bumper mount. And that looks to be your chassis
2:37 / 2 minutes, 37 seconds: weights in there. That's your front center and your rear center chassis weight. And then included in the kit as well is what appears to be a diff tool.
2:44 / 2 minutes, 44 seconds: We'll get to that probably when we get going in bag A. So, enough unboxing. Let's get to the build.
Chapter 3: Bag A - Gear Diff & Spool
2:51 / 2 minutes, 51 seconds: So, into bag A here. And probably the most important thing to pay attention to when you're going through this part of
2:58 / 2 minutes, 58 seconds: the build. You can see I've got my diff laid out here. And I've actually got most of the way through it. I actually undid uh part of it here to demonstrate this cuz this is important for when
3:07 / 3 minutes, 7 seconds: you're building bag A. Step 1.1. the order of operations in how these parts go together with your your main shaft,
3:15 / 3 minutes, 15 seconds: your big shim, your little shim, then your bearing, and then your O-ring, and then onto the thing. That's the order in
3:23 / 3 minutes, 23 seconds: which they should go in. So, you should be taking your main shaft, fitting your big shim. The little shim is intended to
3:30 / 3 minutes, 30 seconds: run against the bearing, which is opposite to how it was on the SP1. So then you install the the bearing there, which will line up nicely. And then you
3:39 / 3 minutes, 39 seconds: get the O-ring, which actually does need a little bit of blue grease. So I'll grab my blue grease here, and I'll drop that in and give that a
3:47 / 3 minutes, 47 seconds: little bit of lubrication here. It's always important to give the the O-ring a little bit of lubrication before you install it into the the diff. And then
3:56 / 3 minutes, 56 seconds: I'll squeeze that onto there before I go and fit that into. So that's the order in which they are intended to go here.
4:02 / 4 minutes, 2 seconds: and it is easily overlooked by someone who thinks that they they understand and they're going to go breezing through the
4:09 / 4 minutes, 9 seconds: manual nice and quickly. It is different to how it has been for a lot of other cars and how it has been in the SP1. So,
4:16 / 4 minutes, 16 seconds: keep that in mind. Step 1.1, big shim, little shim, bearing, O-ring, then install everything else and put your out
4:23 / 4 minutes, 23 seconds: bearing, your out drive and your inner cup and so on and so forth. That is a very important step
Chapter 4: Bag B - Driveshafts & Layshaft
4:30 / 4 minutes, 30 seconds: onto the beauty of bag B, which is step three in your manual. And the best thing that comes out of this is that these drive shafts are pre-assembled. So, you
4:39 / 4 minutes, 39 seconds: don't need to do anything to them except for add a little bit of lubricant. I like to use the OneUp red lubricant here. And I can do that by just putting a drop into each of the openings in the
4:48 / 4 minutes, 48 seconds: CV here. It's probably beneficial to flood them a little bit, especially when you're building them straight from the first build here. And drop that in. And
4:56 / 4 minutes, 56 seconds: I drop a little bit into the end bearings as well.
5:00 / 5 minutes: Nice and easy. And you can see here plenty of lubrication on the drive shaft. And they're now going to be nice and free. I'll do the same to the rear
5:07 / 5 minutes, 7 seconds: drive shafts uh after I've added a bit of Loctite to my grub screw and put together that as per the manual. And then you build the motor mount. And it's simple.
Chapter 5: Bag C - Hub Assembly
5:18 / 5 minutes, 18 seconds: So we've moved on to step four. This is in bag C. Putting together our hub assembly. And there's one important thing that you want to keep in mind when
5:26 / 5 minutes, 26 seconds: you're building this part here, and it's when you're assembling these carbon plates. Firstly, you're getting your ball stud in to connect to your uh steering linkages and your rear steer
5:34 / 5 minutes, 34 seconds: linkages. But the next part is this 4117 threaded insert goes into the carbon
5:42 / 5 minutes, 42 seconds: plate in the opposite direction that the ball has gone. So, you come in through the top here and you press that in. The manual then calls for you to use the
5:50 / 5 minutes, 50 seconds: 4118 ball with a 2.5 mil driver and you use that to gently pull that through the carbon part. So, I've got mine lined up
5:57 / 5 minutes, 57 seconds: pretty well here and I'm going to just slowly wind that in to pull that in and it presses in nicely to the carbon part.
6:05 / 6 minutes, 5 seconds: It's important at this point now that that's installed and that's nice and snug, you remove the 4118 ball. Again,
6:11 / 6 minutes, 11 seconds: it's not the right ball to use on the lower part of the hub. In fact, this ball is the one that goes on the upper part of the hub once you've installed
6:19 / 6 minutes, 19 seconds: the screw and the shim. And that is your upper camber link mounting position.
6:22 / 6 minutes, 22 seconds: Very important that you don't leave it attached to this carbon plate cuz then the next step when you come down to step 4.5, you'll be wondering where the
6:30 / 6 minutes, 30 seconds: ball's gone. So, moving on to an important step now, and I think it's key to highlight this. This is steps 4.7, 4.8, and so on. Uh, installing the drive
6:39 / 6 minutes, 39 seconds: shafts into the hubs. The SP2 brings about an all new hub design which includes a larger back bearing. This is
6:46 / 6 minutes, 46 seconds: slightly larger and that fits into the back side of the hub there. A nice and neat little snap and that pops in there.
6:52 / 6 minutes, 52 seconds: The tolerances have been tightened up as well as well as the hex's are now made from a hardened material. And that
6:59 / 6 minutes, 59 seconds: includes the one shim that they ask you to put onto the hex here. And you can go ahead and use things like optional crush washers. I've elected to install these.
7:09 / 7 minutes, 9 seconds: These are the RCMaker 2139 crush washers. So, I'm going to go here and install my bearing onto the hex. And
7:17 / 7 minutes, 17 seconds: then install my crush washer onto the back of the hex as well. And then I'm going to feed that through the outside
7:24 / 7 minutes, 24 seconds: of the hub. Just nice and gently find that through nice and neat. And then install my axle. This is a front hub assembly. So, I'm going to install my
7:32 / 7 minutes, 32 seconds: axle and then grab the plastic lock ring and use the supplied 3D printer tool to press that together. Now, the tolerances
7:40 / 7 minutes, 40 seconds: have been improved greatly here. And Ryan Maker actually says that the new tolerance stack up with the new hub design, the new hex design, and the new
7:47 / 7 minutes, 47 seconds: larger bearing, you may not even need or feel the need to use a crush washer, but I'm a creature of habit and I like to use the crushwasher there. And you don't
7:55 / 7 minutes, 55 seconds: necessarily need to go to the long lengths of tune, [clears throat] sorry, tuning the shim thicknesses on the hex to really make sure you have that
8:03 / 8 minutes, 3 seconds: optimum free play here. I built one already here and doing it the same way that I used to check with the SP1 using the innovate tool here. There's no
8:11 / 8 minutes, 11 seconds: excessive play and it spins really nice and free as well. So, I'm very happy with that here. You go ahead and build that. But the new hex means it shouldn't
8:18 / 8 minutes, 18 seconds: wear out anywhere near as quickly and this should remain nice and consistent for a long, long time in the car. I really like that design. And again, I'm
8:27 / 8 minutes, 27 seconds: just going to go and use the optional 2139 uh optional crush washers in all four corners.
Chapter 6: Bag D - Lower Arms
8:34 / 8 minutes, 34 seconds: So, when it comes to assembling uh your arms, one of the most important things is to make sure the balls and the ball cups go together nice and free. So,
8:43 / 8 minutes, 43 seconds: after you've trimmed off all the flashing from the 3026A ball cups, Ryan and the RCMaker team have provided this neat little ball cup tool here that you
8:52 / 8 minutes, 52 seconds: can then insert the ball cup into. And then set the ball down on your bench and just use the tool to press it down into
8:59 / 8 minutes, 59 seconds: the bench to get it to pop in. And when I set it down straight, it wants to pop in nice and easy. It's a nice easy pop. And you
9:07 / 9 minutes, 7 seconds: can see that's already pretty free in the ball. But we're probably going to have to free it up just a tiny bit. So now I'm going to use my driver just to pop it out the other side when it wants to.
9:18 / 9 minutes, 18 seconds: [clears throat]
9:20 / 9 minutes, 20 seconds: Ah, 2.5 mil driver doesn't fit. needs to be a 2 millm driver to get it to pop out a little bit. Okay, so now we've got
9:28 / 9 minutes, 28 seconds: that out here and we can check. And when it's outside of the ball cup tool, it's actually very nice and free. So for this one, I probably wouldn't need to go and do it, but you can go and get your pair
9:36 / 9 minutes, 36 seconds: of flat pliers and just give it a gentle pinch on either side here just to check it and get it freed up a little bit. A gentle squeeze before we get ready to
9:44 / 9 minutes, 44 seconds: install it into the arm. We're going to take our arm. We're going to take my right front, which I've already started doing here, and I'm going to install this, of course, for the hub. It's going
9:52 / 9 minutes, 52 seconds: to go from the top side down and we're going to pop it in like so. Now, most of these are going to be pretty snug here.
9:59 / 9 minutes, 59 seconds: This one's actually a really neat fit straight away. That's popped in all the way. And it's, [clears throat] you can see it's just a little bit snug here, which means we need to remove a tiny bit of material from the square in the arm.
10:11 / 10 minutes, 11 seconds: [clears throat] Sorry. To do that, we want to use a very, very gentle file and just very gently just file away each of
10:19 / 10 minutes, 19 seconds: the faces of the square. This is a a half round file, so it's round on one side and flat on the other. And I'm just running it back and forth a few times in
10:27 / 10 minutes, 27 seconds: each of the faces of the square here, just to take away a tiny bit of material just to make sure we have enough still
10:35 / 10 minutes, 35 seconds: there to keep it nice and snug. Try it a couple of times.
10:40 / 10 minutes, 40 seconds: And then pop it back in there. And I'm happy that that is nice and free. Now, you can go and probably make that a little bit more free and just keep
10:48 / 10 minutes, 48 seconds: working it. Take your time with this step. Really, really take your time with it. This is going to ensure that your suspension is going to be nice and free
10:55 / 10 minutes, 55 seconds: without having excessive amounts of play in it, which can introduce some really nasty handling characteristics.
11:03 / 11 minutes, 3 seconds: And again, just keep trying it [clears throat] until we get it nice and free. I'm happy with that there now. So, I can flip that over and I can get my
11:10 / 11 minutes, 10 seconds: carpet arm clip and pop it on. And then that ball is ready to go.
Chapter 7: Bag E - Carbon Chassis Prep & Bulkheads
11:18 / 11 minutes, 18 seconds: Now, we're moving on to step six. Now, this is going to vary a little bit depending on what version of the car you purchase. If you purchase the carbon
11:25 / 11 minutes, 25 seconds: chassis, then it is important that you probably do a little bit of prep to the chassis before you move on to the following steps, uh, step 6.2 and
11:34 / 11 minutes, 34 seconds: onwards. And that is just to prepare the edges of the carbon fiber. When these are CNC machined here, it can leave a little burr and that burr can catch on
11:42 / 11 minutes, 42 seconds: the road and it can actually fray the carbon fiber and uh bring a premature end to the life of the chassis. So, I like to use a little bit of wet and dry.
11:50 / 11 minutes, 50 seconds: This is a 600 grit and I like to just go along the edges of the chassis here and just sand away that sharp edge. I do
11:57 / 11 minutes, 57 seconds: this at an absolute minimum on anytime I put a new chassis on a car or I build a new kit. [clears throat] And you can then you can immediately
12:05 / 12 minutes, 5 seconds: feel you can see all the carbon that's come off on my fingers here. And you can immediately feel the difference that's going to make. You can go the extra mile and do a little bit with some CA glue
12:14 / 12 minutes, 14 seconds: and actually seal the edges of the carbon fiber with the CA glue. Here I am going to go do that step. So this is a pretty lengthy process here. But you take the time to sand all the sharp
12:22 / 12 minutes, 22 seconds: edges off the carbon fiber. And then I will run a lap of CA glue around my chassis here and maybe give that a little follow-up sand again just to get
12:31 / 12 minutes, 31 seconds: any of the burrs off before I move on to the next steps to install the car. It's important that you do this on the carbon chassis. But again, if you have the
12:39 / 12 minutes, 39 seconds: steel or the aluminum chassis, then you don't need to worry about this part and you can just move straight on to mounting up the arms onto the chassis plate.
12:49 / 12 minutes, 49 seconds: So now we are getting into bag E and step six and onwards. There's three key things to remember in this phase of the build. The first one is if you've come
12:58 / 12 minutes, 58 seconds: from another brand of car or even if you've come from the SP1, keep in mind the lower screws here, the 3x6 counterunk screws, they are a 110° head.
13:08 / 13 minutes, 8 seconds: That is a universal standard on all of the SP2 chassis uh models, whether it's the carbon fiber, the steel, or the
13:15 / 13 minutes, 15 seconds: aluminum chassis. So, if you keep spares nearby, try not to contaminate these with the other ones. Otherwise, you are
13:23 / 13 minutes, 23 seconds: going to have some dramas in getting the screws to mate up nicely to the bottom of your chassis. That is a crucial thing in your spare parts management when it
13:32 / 13 minutes, 32 seconds: comes to putting together and running your SP2.
13:37 / 13 minutes, 37 seconds: The second thing to keep in mind when you're going through this step is to make sure you put the rear arms and the front arms on the correct end here.
13:43 / 13 minutes, 43 seconds: Again, the front arms have a greater distance between the shock pickup and where the hub mounts and the rear arms have a much shorter distance there. I
13:50 / 13 minutes, 50 seconds: won't tell you how I know exactly, but that is how they are meant to sit. And again, if you are using the steel chassis, keep in mind you should be
13:57 / 13 minutes, 57 seconds: using the extra carbon fiber shim underneath those ball studs to space them out. You need to be using that part as supplied when you buy the steel chassis.
14:08 / 14 minutes, 8 seconds: One other important factor to remember when you're putting together uh the parts in this step, this is down to step 6.7, is the ball stunt for the rear
14:16 / 14 minutes, 16 seconds: steer goes in this middle location, which actually is recessed. So, it does go in further than you would imagine.
14:24 / 14 minutes, 24 seconds: So, you got to make sure it goes in all the way down and then just snug it up.
14:28 / 14 minutes, 28 seconds: And there should be about 1 and 12 mm sticking out the top there. That'll that will actually locate on the top deck.
14:37 / 14 minutes, 37 seconds: when you're putting it all together on the car.
14:40 / 14 minutes, 40 seconds: So, the rest of step six is pretty straightforward here, but there's one last thing I like to do, uh, especially when it comes to prepping my top decks
14:47 / 14 minutes, 47 seconds: to bolt up to the chassis, and that is to take care of the discrepancy between the rounded inside of the head of any
14:56 / 14 minutes, 56 seconds: screw, not even just a steel, like a roll formed screw, but even machine screw would have a radius on them, and then the square edge on the carbon
15:03 / 15 minutes, 3 seconds: fiber. And I do that by just adding a little bit of countersinking. So, this is just a general counter syninking bit um from any available tool shop or
15:11 / 15 minutes, 11 seconds: hardware store. You can even use like the eggshaped uh Dremel stone style bit here. But I just very carefully take the
15:19 / 15 minutes, 19 seconds: bit here and I'll just very very gently twist it around in the top of the holes where my top deck screws are going to
15:26 / 15 minutes, 26 seconds: mount in. And that just deburrers and breaks the sharp edge. I only do it on these ends where I'm using the rounded
15:33 / 15 minutes, 33 seconds: screw. So, don't do it on the the other end where you may be using the shorter screw. And you actually saw I just did that on the wrong side.
15:42 / 15 minutes, 42 seconds: But this just breaks away the edge. So then the screw when you tighten it up, you're not trying to tighten a rounded
15:50 / 15 minutes, 50 seconds: corner onto a sharp edge and then it might get tweaked or skewed out of width. So, I just take care of that before I bolt them up to the car. And that gives me a bit more confidence that
15:58 / 15 minutes, 58 seconds: my tweak is always going to be nice and even. Now, the last key thing to remember out of step six here, and it's down to uh just under step 6.13 for your
16:07 / 16 minutes, 7 seconds: top deck flex options. Actually, I I'll whip it around to the same orientation it is in the manual here. If you plan on running a top deck screw in the back of
16:15 / 16 minutes, 15 seconds: the rear top deck here, you do need to keep in mind, you can see there, there is a half a mm gap there. So, you do need to put a 0.5 mm shim in there.
16:24 / 16 minutes, 24 seconds: Otherwise, you'll end up pinching down the top deck and you'll pinch up the whole car and really, really ruin your tweak. So, keep that in mind. If you want to stiffen the rear top deck, you do need to put a shim in there.
Chapter 8: Bag F - Upper Arms & Rockers
16:37 / 16 minutes, 37 seconds: Now, logically, we have moved on to bag F here, and we're up into steps seven and eight and beyond here. You can see I haven't put anything together yet.
16:45 / 16 minutes, 45 seconds: There's only a couple of things you really need to keep in mind when you're going through this bag, and that is to identify that the rockers are actually
16:53 / 16 minutes, 53 seconds: different. So, you can see here I have a rear rocker and a front rocker. The front rocker actually has the extra little notch in it there. The front
17:00 / 17 minutes: rockers are taller, so try not to get them mixed up as well. And with the different rockers come different push rod lengths. The taller front rocker
17:08 / 17 minutes, 8 seconds: actually has a shorter push rod, a shorter linkage, and the shorter rear rocker actually has a longer linkage.
17:15 / 17 minutes, 15 seconds: It's really neat that these are preassembled for us, all put together, ready to go. But try not to mix these up. Try to get the uh the short length push rods with the long rockers for the
17:24 / 17 minutes, 24 seconds: front and then the long push rods for the short rockers to go on the rear of the car and you're not going to have any dramas.
Chapter 9: Bag G - Anti-Roll Bars
17:34 / 17 minutes, 34 seconds: So, we're making our way nicely through the build now, and I've just opened up bag G and gotten to the stage of installing the sway bar and then onto the servo mount and things like that.
17:42 / 17 minutes, 42 seconds: Uh, one thing to really pay attention to when you're installing the sway bars is that is the orientation of the sway bar mounts on the chassis. If you put them
17:51 / 17 minutes, 51 seconds: in the wrong way, you're probably going to have a bit of a bad time. Another best practice is uh at this stage of the
17:59 / 17 minutes, 59 seconds: car to double check for sway bar tweak and I'm going to take you quickly how to go through that using a setup board. So I'm going to put my car across to one
18:07 / 18 minutes, 7 seconds: side and I'm going to get a setup board on here and I'm going to get my sway bars sitting on the setup board. So, the easiest way to check your sway bar for
18:16 / 18 minutes, 16 seconds: tweak as it is, and I know it's a bit hard to see on the carbon fiber, but if you just set the sway bar down gently on the board and then just apply a little
18:23 / 18 minutes, 23 seconds: bit of pressure just to the leading edge of the sway bar to tap it down and then gently gently tap. I'll see if I can get the microphone in on this. And
18:31 / 18 minutes, 31 seconds: I can tap on this side and it's not doing anything. And I tap on the other side and it goes. So, you can tell just from the audio that this side of the
18:39 / 18 minutes, 39 seconds: sway bar is sitting up in the air a little bit. So to eliminate that tweak, I'm going to very carefully just try and give it a twist and then
18:48 / 18 minutes, 48 seconds: check it again. And it probably needs a bit more of a manly twist to try and sort that out. And that's a lot nicer
18:56 / 18 minutes, 56 seconds: now. So that helps you eliminate the majority of the sway bar tweak that you're going to get, which can make your life a lot lot easier,
19:05 / 19 minutes, 5 seconds: a lot easier down the road when you're trying to set up your car. This one needs a fairly decent
19:14 / 19 minutes, 14 seconds: fairly decent move there to dweak the sway bar.
19:20 / 19 minutes, 20 seconds: That's going to help eliminate sway bar tweak in your setup when you're setting the car up and that's going to
19:28 / 19 minutes, 28 seconds: make life a lot easier once you've set these cars or these sway bars into the chassis. So, a special note here for
19:35 / 19 minutes, 35 seconds: step 9.4 here. But we want to install the uh 4129 final steel linkage here, this little part into the end of the
19:43 / 19 minutes, 43 seconds: sway bar and into the ball that we poked through on the arm on the lower side earlier. The best way I found to install this and to guarantee or give myself as
19:51 / 19 minutes, 51 seconds: much of a guarantee that it's not going to come loose here, even though the threads on this part have been made tighter than a normal metric thread here, a little bit of security is just
19:58 / 19 minutes, 58 seconds: to put a little bit of blue Loctite onto there. So, using a toothpick, which you might have guessed is going to be part of this installation. I'm getting the toothpick and I'm just putting a little
20:06 / 20 minutes, 6 seconds: bit of blue Loctite onto the male part of the thread there. Then I can line that up and make sure I insert the sway bar into the correct hole. And then I
20:14 / 20 minutes, 14 seconds: can line that up onto the thread of the ball. And of course, then I can come and get my 2M driver and get at that from the underside and just gently feed the
20:22 / 20 minutes, 22 seconds: threads through and then nip it down nice and snug here. That's going to be, in my opinion, the best way to tighten these up here and to make sure that they
20:30 / 20 minutes, 30 seconds: don't come loose while you're driving on the racetrack. I don't think they will come loose anyway, but just a tiny little bit of blue Loctite is going to
20:37 / 20 minutes, 37 seconds: give you that little bit extra security when you're on the racetrack.
Chapter 10: Bag I - Shock Absorbers
20:44 / 20 minutes, 44 seconds: Well, we know we're getting somewhere when we get down to the shocks. This is the contents of bag I, which is step 11 in the manual here. Nothing too crazy to
20:52 / 20 minutes, 52 seconds: go through right now. You just need to make sure you do unthread the collars from the body here so you can install the O-ring. Uh so then the collars hold
21:01 / 21 minutes, 1 second: themselves on nicely. And then I would say you should double check the caps here. They are pre-drilled here. And of course they're not going to be like a
21:09 / 21 minutes, 9 seconds: conventional cap you expect on a normal touring car. But just check the holes to make sure there's no debris or swarf blocking them in the build. as well.
21:20 / 21 minutes, 20 seconds: A quick note on the springs as supplied in the kit here. The kit comes with the 4.5 spring for the front and the 4.25
21:27 / 21 minutes, 27 seconds: spring for the rear. Uh the numbers are opposite to what you would have expected if you would have been racing the SP1 with us for a while. They're no longer
21:36 / 21 minutes, 36 seconds: related to a spring rating, but more related to the number of coils here. And in spring technology, uh the more number of coils you have over a fixed length,
21:44 / 21 minutes, 44 seconds: then the softer the spring is going to be. So that is why we'll see the 4.5 in the front and the 4.25 in the rear. Keep that in mind. So get don't get them
21:52 / 21 minutes, 52 seconds: mixed up and get the wrong spring on the wrong end of the car. And there is uh five springs available uh as a tuning option at the moment from a 3.75 the
22:00 / 22 minutes: hardest option through to the 4.75 as the softest option. But that is the kit springs here. And just make sure you get them on the correct end of the car.
Chapter 11: Final Notes
22:10 / 22 minutes, 10 seconds: So, now that we've mounted up all the shocks and finished off the remainder of the steps in the manual, we're left with a uh a race roller, which looks pretty snazzy. Ready to rock and roll here. I
22:19 / 22 minutes, 19 seconds: can't wait to get this thing on the track. There is one more thing that is worth going over here, and it's quite important in the build that is in the
22:26 / 22 minutes, 26 seconds: very back of the manual, and that is the uptra limiter here. It's pretty new to the RC touring car world here, but you can see right on this shock mount here,
22:35 / 22 minutes, 35 seconds: there's that little M3x6 screw and there's a 1M shim underneath the head and you can see the thread sticking out there and that is actually creating the
22:42 / 22 minutes, 42 seconds: uptra limit on the rear arm here. It's available on all four corners and a really good base setting for all corners is to use a 3x6 with a 1M shim. It's a
22:51 / 22 minutes, 51 seconds: good starting setting here. Um, we think at the minimum of running that here, which gets you to, I don't know, maybe 23 mm of up travel when you measure it
22:59 / 22 minutes, 59 seconds: on the bench, uh, is a great setting to just look after the back of the car here, stop it from bottoming out as much, and it prevents the, uh, the rear rocker from clashing and the rear shock
23:08 / 23 minutes, 8 seconds: from bottoming out here. You can go to the finer tuning settings and you can use a grub screw with some Loctite, and then you can set it in very, very fine increments on your setup station here.
23:17 / 23 minutes, 17 seconds: as a good base setting here. Whack a 3x6 with a 1M shim on that mounting there, especially on the rear, and that'll help
23:24 / 23 minutes, 24 seconds: the car survive a lot nicer. So, if you've made it this far into the video, thank you for watching, and hopefully some of the tips and tricks that you've learned along the way are going to help
Chapter 12: Outro
23:33 / 23 minutes, 33 seconds: you get the most out of building your SP2. It's going to be an absolute rocket as soon as you get it onto the racetrack. You can see here I finished off the uh the complete build of mine.
23:42 / 23 minutes, 42 seconds: I've got all my race electronics in there and just a couple of options uh that I recommend you might want to pick up along the way. I couldn't help
23:49 / 23 minutes, 49 seconds: myself. I went and got the carbon fiber aerodyisks because aerodyisks are cool.
23:53 / 23 minutes, 53 seconds: Uh plus I got the brass front weight and then the brass floating electronics weight. There's no other actual options on this. Of course, I did mentioned before the brass battery hooks cuz I'm running a very lightweight battery here.
24:04 / 24 minutes, 4 seconds: But as far as that, it's pretty bog standard and the kit setup is going to be a great starting point for you to get on track, get a feel for what the car wants and start to tune it to your conditions and to your driving style.
24:14 / 24 minutes, 14 seconds: So, thank you for watching and I hope you enjoy your brand new SP2.
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