In order to help those who are ready to build the new Mugen Seiki MTC3, I have prepared some additional content - this is more or less in the order of the manual.
The Manual shows everything in detail so please pay attention carefully, but no matter if you have experience with Mugen Seiki builds or not, lots of new innovativon to be experienced by Robert Pietsch.
### Suspension Mounting 1
Pay attention to install the steel ball A2819 in the correct direction in all positions.
Thread on bottom for FF, FR and RF mounting
Thread on top for RR and all four hub mounting
### Shock Holder A2558 / Rear Toe-In Rod 2
The manual recommends to add a bit of glue on the grub screw, you can also use loctite. Then, when removing a shock, the grub screw will stay in.
As you barely remove the Rear Toe-In rods, use a bit of loctite to add security.
### Shock Tower Installation 3
Install the clip prior to pushing the pin (A2274F) into the bulkhead. It will be easier to mount.
### Anti-Roll-Bar Installation 4
As it might be not 100% clear, please install A2122 with the flat area shown here as well as at the bottom of page 9. With this, the anti-roll-bar sits secured and free.
### Spur Gear/Pinion 5
The range will be from 80t to 96t if you use 64dp (up to 72t in 48dp). Please refer to the gear chart here (also to be found in the information file) to choose your preferred gear ratio.
### Diff Build 6
To secure the outdrives in the diff, please apply loctite on each screw. No matter if running stock or modified, we recommend to always do this when building or maintaining that part of the diff.
When using optional aluminium outdrives (A2248D), remember to install the 10x15x4 ball bearing before installing A2248D.
 
### Diff cams 7
To have a better visuality on your diff and spool position and therefor belt tension, you can mark a dot as shown.
MA2050 has the same measurements as the kit A2203B, MA2051 are for lower diff and spool position. These are both made of aluminium and are available from Mugen Seiki Europe ("MSE Performance Parts").
### Belt tension 8
Diff and spool position with its belt tension is shown in the setup sheets, however to clarify it a bit further, I have added a picture.
Fine tune belt tension with the bearings located on the motor mount (both front and rear tensioners are included in the kit).
### Upper Deck 9
In order to not mix up front and rear upper decks at any stage, you could mark your upper decks with for example a white dot/marker, as 2.0 and 2.2mm might be difficult to identify differently if rushing.
### Drive Shafts and Upper Arms 10
To have it a bit more easy like with the shock tower installation, put a clip on each pin prior to the build on the drive shafts and on the upper arms.
Also do make sure when you finished building or working on camber and caster adjustment, that the upper arm stays "flat" to keep the suspension free.
 
### Servo Horn 11
I would recommend to use a servo horn height that is minimum 15 and maximum 17mm, no matter which brand of horn you are going to use.
In the pictures, I use the Mugen Seiki servo horn B0553 (and B0552), you can use it within 15 and 17mm if you swap the insert upside down as shown here.
As all the modern equipment (car, servo,radio,receiver..) reacts more quickly, do not hesitate to use (more) negative steering expo on radio.
### The previous MTC2 20g battery holder A2425 won’t fit anymore, but you can still use the shorty weight A2424 (52g each) if you use shorty batteries.
### Motor Mount(ing) 13
It is recommended to always use 3 motor screws (instead of just 2) to achieve best stability possible. So be aware of the top screw when installing or changing the motor.
### Shock Position 14
As there is a 6mm range (by 2x3mm) by the upper shock position, horizontal and vertical marking might confuse some when removing and installing the shocks.
Please pay attention to the preferred shock position, it might be even easier to mark A2557 (shock upper ball) for quicker identification.
In long term, you will benefit from the "super quick" shock change position possibility.
### Spring Rate 15
Especially for those who did not run a Mugen car in the near past, the lower the number, the harder the spring.
For example, 4.25 is harder than 4.5.
In direct comparism, less coils is "harder", more coils is "softer"
In case you ever loose the engraving, you would be able to know which spring it is by counting the coils.
### Caster tool B0560 (and other tools needed) 16
The values in the manual are very accurate, however, it is recommend to set up the caster with this tool, which has adjustable height to fit your setup system.
When wrenching on your MTC3, please keep in mind that a 2.0mm or 2.5mm ball end wrench can be useful.
### Bodyshell 17
When using the kit included Rear Wing Mounts A2439E, there are several steps to note. After drilling the holes through A2439F, make sure to use shims (if necessary) to achieve the preferred bodyshell height.
When changing height of the rear bodyshell through shims, you can easily lengthen the hole in vertical direction too.
Be aware that all bodyposts (except for A2439E) are eccentrical when installing or replacing. The manual explains most important information, measurements are shown in the MTC3 setup sheets and more bodyshell content will follow!
### Rear Rollcenter 18
To keep the rear lower arm parallel to the chassis (so no squat or kick-up), the total of the shims used in the RF and RR positions to mount the arms is 3mm.
For example RF 1mm and RR 2mm, or RF 1.5mm and RR 1.5mm.
This may be confusing to start with, so please take note and read the setup sheets carefully to make sure you have the correct settings!
Check out MTC3 page and click on MTC3 for all infos as manual, setup/info guide, setup sheets, parts lists etc
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