0:00/0sec : Hi, it's Thomas again from Superstock.

0:02/2sec: Today we're going to go through how to mount your shells. This is a very complicated and arduous process. I'll try to do it as quick as I can. Let me

0:10/10sec: show you what we're going to go through today. We're going to go through what you need. Prepping your shell, measuring the front hole location, which is really

0:18/18sec: hard to do, but very important, and then riming out the holes, finalizing the lower body line, the front edge, which is a bit tricky and timeconuming to do,

0:25/25sec: right? And then cutting out the wheel arches. For this, I'm going to be using the T3D guide which Nathan Tanty from CRA designed and we've got stock of

0:34/34sec: these on the website. Before we go any further, what you'll need is verers, some body reamers, the RC make a body post, we need the TD 3D wheel arch

0:44/44sec: guide, we need some scissors, ride height gauge, 2 mil. We also need a one and a half as well. Some Sharpies.

0:51/51sec: You're going to need a scar to prepare the body. these foam bases. Ride makes these, but Supertock will have our own brand in stock very soon as well. We'll

0:59/59sec: actually have 5 mil, 2 mil, and 1 mil in one package. So, first of all, you got to clean your shell. If you are cleaning your shell, you use a green scal pad.

1:07/1min 7sec: And you literally with some detergent and water, you scuff the inside. Why do you do that? Well, the paint has to

1:14/1min 14sec: adhere. It doesn't you don't want a a shiny surface, but you scuff everything as you're cleaning it, especially the front section and this lip where there's

1:22/1min 22sec: a lot of contact with the ground and you're going to hit things. You scuff this up really well. You make sure you get window areas here as well. Sides,

1:30/1min 30sec: the whole thing. And then we we're going to cut out the bottom section. We will cut it at the lowest line here. So, I

1:36/1min 36sec: like to do just a rough cut like so. And so, there you go. With the magic of video, I've cut that out. And now what I'm going to do with all that excess out

1:45/1min 45sec: of the way so it doesn't hinder me, I'm going to cut the lower body line. And when you're cutting, never close the scissors completely. The reason you do

1:52/1min 52sec: this is because this stops any minor crack being marked into the shell. And if you do close the scissors, that's a

2:00/2min: point where potentially a crack could occur on impact. The next step is measuring the front body post. This is a very crucial process with the Omatics.

2:09/2min 9sec: Luckily team has given these measurements on petite RC. From the wind lower windshield line downwards it's 58

2:17/2min 17sec: mm and from the hood line to the inside it's 39.5. I get my verers I zero them.

2:23/2min 23sec: I set it to 58 exactly. I place this edge of the verier on the lower windshield line and I do that roughly

2:31/2min 31sec: where I think the body post will go there. And then I mark the shell there. to the hood line. I set

2:39/2min 39sec: my verers to 39.5. I place this edge here onto the hood line.

2:50/2min 50sec: And then I mark like that. And as you can see now, I've got the center point of where the body posts have to be here and here.

3:00/3min: And as you can see, fit perfectly onto the body post there. Why is this important? because then you've got repeatability. Every single shell you make will be exactly the same position.

3:11/3min 11sec: Believe it or not, one wheel forward or back changes the handling of the car completely. The measurements automatics

3:18/3min 18sec: give you is a front biased position, which means there is more overhang over the front wheel. That's going to give

3:25/3min 25sec: you more steering and a little bit less downforce. We're going to ream these holes out right here. This is a 4 body.

3:35/3min 35sec: So for point4 bodies to avoid the annoying process where the you get sort

3:42/3min 42sec: of the remainder and it cuts a big chunk out. I place the reamer on an angle like that and I gently rotate. When I feel

3:51/3min 51sec: that it's sort of grabbing in the wrong way, I remove the reamer and I very gently very gently just with no pressure downwards. I just spin it.

4:03/4min 3sec: I ream the hole out.

4:07/4min 7sec: Okay, so I've reamed out the front body posts. I've made them big enough so that the body moves freely. Now the next step

4:14/4min 14sec: will be to add the RC maker uh body mounts. Okay, great. So now what I've done is I've reamed these holes and I've

4:22/4min 22sec: mounted the RC maker supports. This makes your body nice and stiff. And now what I do to mark the rear holes, this is very easy. If I just grab the

4:30/4min 30sec: Sharpie, I put it through the hole and I just go up and down in a as straight as

4:37/4min 37sec: possible line. And then I do the same with re catch. Just remember when you're reaming it out, if you feel that it's

4:44/4min 44sec: catching, you remove it and you start on the other you move it to the other end.

4:49/4min 49sec: Now, you have to keep in mind that you will need to Dremel out these holes larger than the carbon fiber holes so

4:57/4min 57sec: that it allows some movement. I'm going to mount the shell now to test to see everything fits. Okay, so there you go.

5:04/5min 4sec: Now, the front moves free. I'm happy with that. It needs to go up and come down on its own. The rear is maybe a

5:13/5min 13sec: little bit tight, but I'm going to dremel out those holes just a fraction right at the end once I finished everything and I've taken out the clear coat protector. Now that's done. The

5:22/5min 22sec: body posts are done. Next up, so what I do to mark the front body, I get my

5:29/5min 29sec: Sharpie. I put it down on the table and I go all the way down to the most acute angle I can possible. And then I mark all around the body.

5:41/5min 41sec: like that. So, as you can see, I've marked all around the body. This is just one of potentially many lines I'll have to do to slowly cut away the lower line.

5:51/5min 51sec: You do not want to go too excessive in your cutting because if you go excessive, then you've cut too high and you've got problems. You have to mount

5:59/5min 59sec: everything, rejig everything, and it's not worth it. So, I'm going to cut now at that line and recheck. Okay, I've cut out that bottom line, and I'm going to

6:08/6min 8sec: retest with the same method. I lift the body and there is a minor amount of movement there. I do the same process again. I

6:17/6min 17sec: place the Sharpie on the most acute possible angle I can get it and I mark all around the body. So, as you can see,

6:25/6min 25sec: I've also marked all across the side edge now because we're getting to a point where the side edge might eventually uh start impacting the body.

6:33/6min 33sec: And I've also marked the front. So, this is why you cut little by little because if you cut too much, you ruin the entire

6:41/6min 41sec: body. I'll cut this and I'll get back to you. All right. So, I've just cut it. I'll test now. And there's no movement.

6:47/6min 47sec: Okay. So, now I know the front body is fine. There's actually a little bit of movement. What I'm going to do now, I'm going to get my ride height gauge. This

6:56/6min 56sec: is an Aramax, which measures all the way down to 0.5. So, it's perfect for this job. And I stick it to the front here.

7:04/7min 4sec: I've got on the front lip, as you can see, 1 mm of gap. I like to have two to

7:12/7min 12sec: three mil all around the front lip. Here on the side, I've got two. Keep in mind, the sides will always be a little bit

7:19/7min 19sec: higher. Oh, and on this one here, put about one and a half, maybe even two.

7:27/7min 27sec: So, I repeat the process again, but now I know that I'm very close to where I want the body to be. So, I be very

7:35/7min 35sec: cautious. I'm going to do some lines here and I'll get back to you.

7:37/7min 37sec: Okay. So, I've spent a bit of time cutting this off camera and I cut at the line exactly or roughly just before it.

7:45/7min 45sec: There's just a fraction under 3 mil.

7:47/7min 47sec: That's okay. And on the sides here again, just a fraction under three. And on the sides here again,

7:56/7min 56sec: just a fraction under three. What I do now is I check the sides. I make sure there's movement. Next up, we put the tires on and we cut the wheel arches out

8:05/8min 5sec: with a T3D marker. Okay, I've got my wheels on the trusty sweep 36s. I have my T3D wheel arch marker. And it's

8:14/8min 14sec: really simple. You literally just slide it on like that. Piece of cake. Slide it on. And then you mark your tires, your

8:23/8min 23sec: your your wheel arch, should I say? So, as you can see, I've marked with the T3D uh wheel arch marker by Nathan Tanty

8:31/8min 31sec: from Camber Australia. We also sell these on the Supertock website. When I cut the wheel arch, I will cut the wheel

8:39/8min 39sec: on the inside of that black mark, not on the outside. I highly recommend these.

8:44/8min 44sec: Supertock will sell them for $20. There you go. That is the wheels cut out. As you can see,

8:52/8min 52sec: they don't touch. Now, next thing that's coming up is the wing. And that's it.

8:57/8min 57sec: It's done. When you're cutting the wing out, cut the excess around the wing first,

9:04/9min 4sec: like so, because it's very easy for this to get in the way and ruin your cut. All right.

9:11/9min 11sec: So, there you go.

9:13/9min 13sec: I forgot to mention a few things in the video. When you're mounting a point4 body, you need a center support like this one. Supertock will be releasing

9:20/9min 20sec: their next brace soon. You need rear anti-tuff. And for all bodies, you need to run these foam pieces on the front, both in the center and the sides. What

9:28/9min 28sec: this assists in doing is stopping the body from pushing in under load with with the air passing over it and deforming the body and affecting the

9:37/9min 37sec: arrow. When you install these foam pieces, they should just barely touch the front bumper. You don't want these to be catching onto the bumper. This

9:45/9min 45sec: means it has consistent aerodynamic and the body performs better. The body posts are marked and now it's ready for paint.

9:52/9min 52sec: The body is done. The wing is mounted.

9:54/9min 54sec: The wheel arches are cut out and clean with detergent and rinse it very well so there's no detergent residue. At the end, cut out your wing plate. And don't forget to stick them on. That's it from

10:02/10min 2sec: me. This is Thomas from SuperStock signing out and I'll see you at the track.