Hey guys, welcome back to my YouTube channel and we have another video for you today, and it's regarding body shells for your touring car. In the future I will do a start to finish video on cutting and preparing and making a body for your touring car, but this is just a a quick video just to show you a few tips to make sure your current bodies are on your car correctly. Um, yeah, there's just like three or four tips here just to kind of get you going and I hope it helps. Um, yeah, if you uh if you like it, please like it. If you want to comment and ask any questions down below, please do that.

Here we go. Uh so, the first thing we should check is the wing height. Now, before we get into that, we need to make sure that the car is correct in terms of weight. Uh so, if you're at the track, make sure you got your weight back, your race battery in and uh the race tires you're going to be using cuz they do have different sizes. So, yeah, the rear wing is so important to the setup of the car. And if you've ever driven a an RC car where the wing's fallen off, especially even in off-road, you can really tell how important the wing is. If the wing comes off, the car is undrivable. Um, and quite often I see people making mistakes at the track. Even recently, some guys coming up to me saying, "Oh, my car's kind of over steering. It's over rotating midc corner." And I say, "Con of bring your car over with a with a body shell on.
Let's have a look." And their rear wing height is around 109 to 110, which is way too low. So, because it's a vital part of the car setup and how the car feels on track, um my settings are 115 to 117, uh depending on if it's a larger track or smaller track, I have the wing around 115 for a smaller track. And then for a quicker, bigger size track, I have a 1117. So, I'll show you how you measure that to start with. So, you get your verier. Uh make sure it's on. Yeah, it's on. And then this point here onto your setup board. And then so I'll try and do it with a camera right in front of me and then you just touch the top of the wing like that. So one side 116.6 and then on this side got 116.4. So it's about4 difference from the either side. So that's fine. I think anything within 1 mil from left to right um is should be okay. This is a used wing, so it might be a little bit bent or maybe the body post or something, but that is a vital part you need to do to your body shell. If it's too low, it's going to be over steering.
If it's too high, it might be under steering. Um, and yeah, so between 115s, 117 mil. Make sure yeah, you do that.

Okay, on to the next bit. Next up, let's focus on the front of the car. So quite often another it's probably the second most common mistake I I find is you need to have the body post holes reamed out not too big but the body needs to be able to fall on its own weight. Quite often I see they aren't and they bind up. So you have to imagine if you're driving around this the track and then the body posts go down when you're braking and the front of the car is compressing the body will stick on the body post. So when the front pops back up again when you accelerate and the weight transfers to the back of the car then the body is like kind of stuck on the body posts. So another thing yeah just make sure the body is able to fall on its own weight. And then the next part or the front the body the the splitter height we like to run between six around six mil depending how bumpy your track is.
So we've got just under six here. So that's one important measurement. to make sure the static gap is around 6 mil, 5 to 6 to 7 mil depending how bumpy the the track is. But then when you compress the front of the car, make sure the the lip doesn't touch the ground. So you can kind of see here, make sure the camera's in it correctly. It's still a tiny gap. Not a tiny gap, but a big enough gap so the body has some movement. Um, another mistake that I find is the gap between the bumper and the body shell. So, again, it shouldn't be binding up. It can rest very softly, but a lot as long as the body drops on its own weight um, and it's super close, then it's all good. But if it binds up or the gap is too big, when you break the uh the body will start rubbing on the ground. So, make sure you have just the right amount of foam there.

Okay, on to the next bit. Now, let's look at the side of the body shell. So, we need to make sure our clearances are enough for the wheels and on the track surface. So the way I do it is once it's cut, just give the body a little poke on the side and then if the side of the body rubs on the tires, then you remove it or you cut a bit or Dremel a bit off. That's fine. Okay. So the show you a bit closer.
I don't have a body tuck on the car just yet, but it is slightly rubbing or touching the rear wheel. So, if I get bumped on the side, that can get caught up and then I get a body suck. Or if I hit a curb and the rear of the car lifts up, that would also create a body tuck. So, my way of fixing that, I get a a Dremel machine, let's kind of move you uh up a bit.
And I'll just slowly try and generate more of a space. Let's see if that works.
Now we are all Yeah, now we're all good. So do that on both sides obviously. And the next part I would do is simulate the car being on the track. So just grab or poke your fingers onto the body posts and on the rear of the car and then just compress the car to the side. So kind of like drag the body towards towards me and I can see if anything's touching the ground. So the back of the car is not touching. A tiny bit here is rubbing on the floor. I don't like any of my body rubbing on the floor uh at all because especially if you're running running over a curb, it can grab the car and throw it sideways. So yeah, a tiny bit underneath the D13 bit.
So again,
Now let's try it again.
Okay, now it's fine. So it has a perfect clearance all the way around the car.
And then obviously do the same on the other side. And then yeah, let's go to the next bit.

I forgot to say earlier when talking about the rear wing height, this is how I adjust the the rear of the body. Uh they're RC Maker horizontal body mounts, I think, and they are a lifesaver really cuz before using these, I had to ream holes through the back of the body. And if you don't do it correct first time, it's very hard to adjust the the height of the the wing and the body on the rear. But these these are brilliant. And I know they're they're a bit more expensive than yeah, not using. Um, but they're very useful and I've had the same two pairs for a couple of years now and they're yeah, they're absolutely fine and they don't they don't wear out.

The threads don't wear out and they're fine in crashes. So definitely pick up these if you can. It makes things a lot easier if you are using horizontal body posts. Um, one of the final mis uh, yeah, problems or mistakes people make is when they do make the body. Try and move this camera back a second. The line from the, let me zoom out.
The line from the front bumper to the side of the body shell. I've seen so many people where they have this sticking out and it's not in line. It kind of like Yeah, it looks a bit like that. And when when it's on the car, it looks super funny and super weird, but you really need to make sure there's like a straight line from the front bumper down the side of the body shell into the back of the car. Just make sure it's a clean line. And when it's on the car, it looks Yeah, it looks much better. But I think that's it um for now. I will be making a body shell making video, but it's taking a bit longer. Yeah, it'll come out in a while.

But that's kind of just a few tips to make sure your current body is um yeah, on your car properly. if you need to make any adjustments. And yeah, as always, I hope it helps. And on to the next one. Cheers, guys. Thank you.