- Awesomatix A800X - Build's Tips & Tricks -

By Max Mächler, European Team Manager

First I want to show the three different Chassis Versions of the Awesomatix A800X.

  • Left: Soft Alloy Chassis (A800XA)
  • Middle: Carbon Chassis (A800X)
  • Right: Hard Alloy Chassis (A800XAH)

The Alloy parts all have a very nice finish and the typical Awesomatix Gun Metal colour.
Wheelhubs AM06WL are now indicated with a hole for easy checking which Hub is used in Car.
Motormount and Bulkheads are also changes a bit for better belt tension.

Basically I start to build up a car bit different than shown in the Manual.
So first step for me is always to screw on the lower balls.

In FF position of lower balls I mostly use the option AT21+0,5S balls in wide position to generate a bit of arm sweep which also have the effect of a bit shorter wheelbase in front.

Next I mount the suspension arms.
I always use in front the optional C04M1+0,5 arms which are 0,5mm longer than std. arms.

If you have problems to get the plastic C-Clip P07 in correct position, or the Arm isn't free after you push on P07 then I use a sinker to make a small chamfere on lower side hole of C04M1. After this it should move perfectly free.

When arm sweep is used you have to take care that there is still space between Swaybar Mounts and the Suspension arms! If necessary remove a bit of plastic from P12x with sandpaper or a file.

Bulkheads, Motormount and Middle brace are next. With Heavy Batteries (330g.) I use the ST130 brace which comes with the kit. When I use lighter batteries (270-280g.) I like the ST165 brace because of total weight.

TIP: Do not hesitate when screwing Bulkheads to the chassis with the 3x6 screws, its normal that the latest "turns" are bit more tight!

Next step are for me the drive train with spool and diff. We changed both a bit. Here you see on left side the A800 spool which was a bit more filigrane. Ok right side the new version from A800X which is bulletproof.

Another tip from me. Give the bearings when they are fresh 2 drops of good bearing oil before use!

For A800X we also changed the bearing housing. It allow now more small steps.
Left A800 right A800X part.
The X Part are named P110 and can be used in A800 car also!

For building the Diff I always use some "Grease" for the orings which are inside on the shafts. I prefer to use INSANE Red Slime or AE Green Slime!
I also never sand the gears or something, because absolute no need for this.

New A800X diff offer a bigger housing for more oil volume compared to A800 diff. This will keep the diff even more consistant over a run than before. As oil I choosed 10.000 Diff oil from LRP.

Here I show again the "lighter trick" with the Awesomatix diff. When I build it and filled with oil I let out the foam of the drive shaft in top side and heat the diff only some seconds with the lighter. With this method you are able to get out the whole air which is inside the diff/oil. You will recognize there will come out a lot. Clean it, put in foam and assemble the outdrive and a perfect build and not leaking Diff is ready to use

Also a new feature of A800X is the topdeck flex mode which you can change with the bushing in Topdeck. Two modes are possible.

I Mode which offer stiff longitudinal flex and at same point free moving side flex.

My favourite at moment is the X Mode which make topdeck stiff to all sides.

In X-Kits are now also the Linear Steering (LS1). Its very simple to assemble. Only make sure to set it not to loose and not to tight. Also dont forget to clean it regulary when you drive often!

Shocks are next. There is not need to refill them, as they come prefilled in kit already (500cst). But I like to build them fresh always. I use the spezial Damper and CVD tool from our Team Driver Ryan Maker and also the Damper pump case from Funparts (Cristiano Rodrigues).
Decided to use 45 oil from LRP and also here some grease for the O-Rings.

At damper holders I always use the RHS-P screw for the ride height because as you can see the end of the screw have a precise machined finish and point everytime perfectly in middle of the spring.
Also I prefer to use on Carpet the SPR01S Soft springs.

Make sure to use the correct O-Ring for the Spur Gear nut! If you use the wrong your spurgear can be destroyed during the run easily. In Stock class I always use 100 / 64P spur gears from LEESPEED.
For modified the most used are 110 and 116 in 64P.

As always by Awesomatix all swaybars come double with the Kit! Make sure to setup the new Ballbearing swaybar holder right. Its important that swaybar is in middle!

Manual show to use the bearings on outside of the holders, but I prefer to use them on inside. For me personal bit more easy then to change swaybars.

Now I mount and adjust the batterie holders. Here I use the Alloy holders AM12-1 and the optional BC1 Clamp set. Mostly for optic reasons ;) std. plastic which come with kit works same good.

One thing i see often in the pits when i check some Awesomatix cars is that the Batteries are mounted way to tight most time ! This can have big influence on car flex!!!!

With this video i want to show you how the batterie is mounted perfectly. It have some space to all directions which is very important.

But please make sure the Up-Play to upper holder isn't to big ! 0,3-0,5mm up play is perfect.

Placing weights is also important thing.

I like to use 5g. Glued under the front gear box and 15g. each side before the Servo/Batterie. Note that the round wights have at lower side where is no number engraved an convex design for not affecting the flex to much!

Time for, in my opinion, the worlds best drive shafts! Super strong, reliable, light and no wear with correct maintenance! I just love this system. Only thing to make them even more great are the UB1 bearings ;) super tiny with huge effect. Free up the suspension in corners more under acceleration.

Putting together the Shafts and Hubs are easy also.

TIP: use a wheelnut and a 7mm Wrench to turn P16 lock ring fully in. They are not so easy to install without this trick.

Also when assembling the Hubs and you turn in ST03 balls on lower side, don't hesitate to turn them fully in. Last turns are a bit tight but this is absolutely normal!

Make sure to screw servo straight to the chassis. There is small way to turn it!
I use all time the Awesomatix Plastic servo Arms.

For front bodyposts I use longer screws and 3,5mm shims. Then you have enough "holes" for correctly setup of all bodyshells.

At rear I use the optional AT22 bodyholdr which allow to install two posts backward also. This help to prevent from Body Tucks!!

The bumper is often a part which looks very ugly on many cars. I mean you see people using matching colored screws to the bulkheads and then you look at a totaly "used and tattered" foam bumper.

It takes only 5 minutes to sand the edges a bit and go over with the flame of the lighter to make it more nice..... you can make it even more nice if you invest more than 5minutes and sand more.....

In my cars I use for optic reasons also the C07 Carbon bumper plate.

At rear Top Links I like to use different length for front and rear "arm".

Use them angled like I do have the advantage of more forward traction and make the rear end a lot more stable without losing to much steering

Now to the final part. The turnbuckles...

It's a bit an annoying work but there are also two tricks which make the work a bit more easy.

First Tip is to apply some oil on the turnbuckle as this will make the "turning" even more easy for all time.

Second Tip is to use a Power drill and clamp in one of the turnbuckles. Then turn them into the ballcups. Don't forget that one side is "left thread". After this its more easy to turn them in later as the thread is already cutted into the plastic.

I always set my Turnbuckles that all "left thread" sides are outside in direction to the tire.

After you the turnbuckles are ready and all are mounted to the Car, a well build A800XA is ready! Only electronics and final Setup is missing.

I hope this Car build up will be a help for some Racers out there. If there are any more questions please feel free to ask me. (Max at Awesomatix.com)


M. Mächler