This build is for the Graphite Spec kit, but the Steel spec goes together the same other than a few screw size differences. I'll start with this kit at my local asphalt tracks, but I'll be ordering the Steel chassis once available to have on hand if I know an upcoming race will be higher grip conditions.

Build: Part 1


I'll be using the full 1up Racing Pro Duty Titanium Screw set for the TC8.


One of the awesome things about the 1up Screw sets is how they are sectioned out by size! They also come with a detailed step-by-step list of where to use each screw in each step of your manual. Super convenient and makes for an easy build!


First up, the lower pivot balls. I also like to use stainless steel lower screws, just for the extra over the stock black screws. Also a sneak peek at our upcoming 1up Pro Pit Tray.


Lower pivot balls installed. AE/Factory Team will also have slide-in Carbon Fiber lower roll-center spacers available soon, for easy swapping/tuning.


First option part: Carbon Lower Arms. I always liked these on asphalt in previous kits. Upper Carbon Arms will be available soon as well.


Lower Arms Installed. It's recommended to use a 5.5mm Ball Cup Reamer to remove a bit of material from the inside of the plastic pivot ball inserts to get the ideal free movement. We'll have these in stock at pick1up.com very soon.


TC8 Bulkheads: All 4 bulkheads the exactly same, with pins on bottom and top to locate within the chassis and upper caps.


Shock Mounts installed into the bulkheads using our new M2 Pro Duty Screws. So cute!


Bulkheads installed.


Diff and Spool components.


1up Blue grease on the o-rings.


The manual says to fill to the top of the crosspins, this comes out to about 1.8g.


Diff and spool assembled. 1up Cv2 Pro bearings used throughout the kit. 1up Clear bearing oil to lube up these ceramics.


Fully assembled diff and spool. I always dab the belt tension indicators with silver sharpie for easier visibility once they're in the car.


Motor mount. Love that vibrant AE blue.


Center pulley installed.


Diff with the upper cap/ballstud mount installed.


Spool with the upper cap/ballstud mount installed.


Top Decks installed, center drivetrain complete!


Build: Part 2 - Hubs, Driveshafts, Upper Arms, Steering, Sway Bars

Front Hub Components. 1up Clear Bearing oil, the bearings are 5x10x3 with a crush tube between them. The kit comes with 0, +1 and +2 hubs for different axle heights, with +1 being the kit setup all around.


Assembled Front Hubs. The rears are the same other than a slightly different steering arm. There are also +1mm longer front steering arms as option parts to adjust ackerman.


Assembled Driveshaft, all 4 corners are the same DCJ. 1up Red CV Joint oil applied.


Assembled hubs with traditional AE 4mm clamping hex.


1up Gold Anti-Wear Grease on the drive pins.


Once the lower pillow ball is screwed into the lower arm, a small plastic pillow ball cap (broken off from the Hub parts tree) is placed inside the lip of the alu pillow ball nut. I put them both on to my 2.5mm wrench. Screw into the bottom of the hub until the tight on the pillow ball, then back off until you get free movement.

All hubs and driveshafts installed!


1up Pro Duty Titanium Turnbuckle set for the TC8.


Add a bit of 1up Blue for easy threading.


The Factory Team Multi-Tool pliers came in clutch throughout this build. Here I used them to snap the pivot balls into the upper arm.


Upper Arms installed! Caster is adjusted using different upper arms. 4º, 2º and 0º are all included in the kit. Kit setup is 4º front, 0º rear.


Servo installed into the 1-piece Servo Mount / Bellcrank Mount using 1up ServoLock screws.


Assembled steering module.


Steering Rack and Links installed


Option Part: AE Anti-Roll Bar Set. Comes with 1.0-1.4 range


I'll be using 1.1 bars front and rear, which is what the kit setup calls for. The size etching is microscopic but it least it's there!


Sway bar installed, with bearings and collars.


Ready for shocks!


Build: Part 3 - Shocks & Battery Holder

All TC8 Shock Components


Pistons installed. There are a few piston options included on the tree. 1up Blue Grease on the O-Rings.


Life Hack: The Factory Team Multi-Tool is exactly 9mm thick in the shock shaft holding area. The stroke length of the TC8 shocks is 9mm, so just snug the bottom shock ball cup tight and it'll be perfect every time.


Shocks filled with 1up 375cst Silicone oil.


The bladder sits fully inside the shock body on a lip. To push it down evenly, I use the top cap.


FT Multi-tool to pop the shock balls in.


Fully assembled shocks.


And installed into the car.


Rear Body Mount installed. Lightweight alu adjusters included.


Battery Holder. Kit comes with a plastic version, but there will be a carbon fiber upgrade available soon.


I use the Reedy Zappers SG6 6800, which is a mid height battery. To get the correct battery post height with 0.5mm of up-down play, use 3mm of spacers on top of the Short battery post that's included.


Spur Gear. I'll be running 17.5t so I'm using the included 92t spur. A 114t spur is included for Mod.


Easy install with the large spur gear screw and O-ring to take up any play.


1up Body Limiter Screws into the front arms. I love the way these look over a normal button head!


You can adjust height with a 1.5mm wrench through the hole, or...


...use a 3mm turnbuckle wrench.


2x 10g screw in weights included in the kit. Probably gonna need more of these!


Build: Part 4 - Bumpers, Bullets, and Electronics I'm using the Alera3D 3DLite V2 bumper for the TC8, which should be available soon! I've always loved Alex's bumpers for previous kits. They look great, they're durable, and this TC8 version is nearly half the weight of the included kit bumper!

Alera3D Bumper. The kit comes with both short and long body posts for whatever class you're running!


Super light!


Installed into the car with the plastic upper plate. Carbon upgrade plate option coming soon. I also used some 1up Lockdown Head screws just for a little extra security and bling!


Lockdown Bullets! Of course I had to go with our Dark Blue option which is a perfect match to the AE anodizing.


Pro tip: when assembling, use a 4mm set screw in the top to stop solder from getting in the bullet threads.
Once again using the FT Multi-Tool. A million uses!


Solder the brass lug to the main bullet and create a nice bed of solder for your wire to sit in.


Wire installed into the lug.



The Power Unit: Reedy SP5 17.5t motor, Reedy 610R ESC. 1up 40mm fan on the motor, and 30mm on the ESC.


This thing is massive and moves some serious air!


Axon pinion Installed.


The motor mount has a convenient slot at the bottom to keep your wiring tidy.


All wired up with a 1up Pro-RX Sanwa reciever and some Team Powers 36SUV2 tires installed. Next up, the body!


Build Part 5 - The Body

I really wanted to go all-out for this one, so I remembered back to when one of my "frenemies", Stefano Bitty Rabitti, offered to paint me a body. We have always had mutual respect back from my PF days, and I consider him one of the very best RC painters in the world. It was time to call in that favour!
He absolutely killed it on this Bittydesign Eptron, I love the way it turned out with my fav dayglo red and his take on Japanese-style rip/flames!
For the finishing touch, a set of Mach1 Graphix decals. Super high-quality, light-weight UV printing means a sleek matte finish with no lamination, but still super durable and scratch/chemical resistant! Michael Palazzola

My tools of the trade. Protoform Crosshair body mounting magnets, Hudy Body Reamer, Yokomo Scissors, and an OLFA circle cutter


Rear body post holes are 43mm from the top of the wing mounts, this should work for most bodies on the market.


Rear body posts 100mm apart


I'm mounting this body +4mm forward, so i marked out this line on the body with sharpie, counting 2 lines back (hard to see the lines in this photo) from neutral in the wheel arch, and lining it up with the center of the wheelnut.


PF Crosshairs on the posts.


This body has convenient marks 70mm apart on the body so it makes it easy to center and mark the post holes through the magnet.


Circle cutter lined up.


Good ol' sharpie trick for the front splitter height.


Decal time! High-quality graphics from Mach1 Graphix


1up Carbon Fiber Winglets


1up Carbon Fiber Body hole washers, a bit of bumper foam, and she's ready for the track!

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