Our driver Michael Steckenborn shares a helpful setup tip for the ARC A11 that can make working on your shocks much easier during testing.

Unlike the A10, the A11’s shocks are mounted to the lower wishbone and shock tower using short ball joints. When using the optional up-travel limiter, the shocks need to be loosened from the wishbone during setup to measure correctly. If you’re experimenting with this option during practice, this can happen several times a day.

To make this process easier and protect the threads on the mounting points, it’s recommended to use grub screws together with ball nuts. This also makes adding or adjusting shims much simpler. A good solution is:

M3x8 mm grub screws
ARC Titanium Ball Joints (R143012)

These ball joints can be installed with a 3 mm hex driver and allow the grub screw to move slightly into the ball joint without hitting a stop.

Additional tips:

Use threadlocker on the grub screws for the shock towers.
When pressing the ball joints into the shock cups, make sure they move freely.

Small details like this can make a big difference when working on your setup during race weekends

How to increase the angle
If the assembly is according to the instruction, the limit for the full axis angle is 25-26 degrees, but if you turn the steering wiper over, you can get the steering angle up to 28 degrees The shim on the steering rod side from the servo will be the same dimensions as added 2 mm, so if you don't want to change the setting or if you use a standard plaque steering wiper, sharpen the interference part of the wiper plate and post a little.
Also, initial reactions may be stiff due to Ackerman as a setting point.
Sometimes increasing the shim between the servo and the rod increases the initial reaction and makes driving easier.
One of the features of the A11 is that the rear is easy to hold, so even if you swing the setting in the direction of bending, you can drive with ease.

Can adjustment
The bearing and cam are tough, so I polished them with a meteorite with an outer diameter of about 10mm to create a smooth drive system.
The meteorite for dish fir was about 10 mm in diameter so I connected it to an electric drama and polished the cam.
Work carefully because if you overdo it, it will break.
This single effort improves driving efficiency by about 50%.
Stock category car with light drive will be an advantage.

Diff calibration
We work hard to remove and polish the diff case and bevel gear.
Finish using cutters and 600 paper papers.
The smaller one's diff case has one pin, so use the corner of the board to finish it with paper.
Actually, even raw it makes you a level of diff that's not a problem, but with all this effort it makes you a great diff
ARC diff uses only thick rubber without paper gaskets, so it can be used repeatedly.
Again no oil leaks at all, very good diff
diff is a live part so I want to put it together properly.

Damper adjustment
The damper on the A11 is slick when the O-ring was new, but after using it for a while, the O-ring gets used to it and the movement becomes stiff.
So I take a little effort to make sure the O-ring runs smoothly when it's used to.
I've shown you how to put shims in before, but this time it's a more practical technique.
The method is simple, the flat side of the lot guide on the damper is a little bit sided with about 600 sand paper.
I think using digital caliper improves accuracy.
If you face it to be 1.4mm, you can create a gap between about 0.01mm, so it moves smoothly.