- Alexander Hagberg - Tech Tips - Wet Car Tutorial -

As promised in my IG post, I wanted to give you an updated wet car tutorial. I've made several videos and posts in the past, but since the outdoor season is now in full swing, I know that a lot of you will find this useful! To be completely honest, I never ran the XRAY X4 platform in the wet (until now). The info below is based on my previous experience running the T4 in the wet on many occasions. Car setup wise, I recommend the following basic changes from a dry setup:

  • Very light rear diff, 1-3K typically. A lighter rear diff will make the car more controllable on power, and will improve side bite.
  • Stiff springs and light shock oil. I've used as stiff springs as C=2.9 and 3.0. The stiffer springs will put more initial load on the tires, which will provide more initial grip. I would recommend 300-350 oil with 4x1.1 pistons, or 375-400 oil with 4x1.2 pistons. Light oil will allow the car to transfer some weight even with the very stiff springs.
  • A lot of ride height and droop (especially if there's puddles on the track). Try going 5.6-5.8 and with 0.6-0.8 lower downstop number than you would typically use. A higher ride height will help the car clear the puddles, and will allow the car to roll more.
  • No anti-roll bars. Again, to promote an increased weight transfer and improved side bite.
  • Little static camber, and long upper arms/links (optional +1.5 upper clamps on the X4 have part number 301574). The threaded tires work best with 1 degree of camber. Longer upper arms further increases this effect (less camber gain).
  • A lot of flex (1.6mm topdecks, X4'23 option parts 301078 & 301078L) and just a single screw in the motor mount. More flex will make the car more forgiving to drive, and will improve side bite.
  • Kit M arms, optional H hubs (302240-H), optional S upper arms (302133-S & 302143S) to provide the maximum amount of mechanical grip from the car.
  • Thick bodyshell and wing (0.6 or 0.7mm will work fine). A heavier will shell will promote more chassis roll and will also be less erratic to drive, and also less likely to tuck.
  • A lot of rear toe (don't be afraid to go more than 3 degrees) to keep the rear locked in.
  • A lot of toe-gain. Same as the above.
  • Most wet weather racing is done with Schumacher wet tires (XG-RAIN). They work great, but will wear out quick if there's dry portions of asphalt starting to show, so keep that in mind. Don't put any chemical on the tires. Dry them out in your tire warmers between runs to get rid of excess water that may have gathered between the tires and inserts. Please note that the tires are directional.
Electronics wise:
  • These days, the easiest way is to use waterproof electronics. Sanwa offer both waterproof receivers and servos (check their website for more info).
  • If you're lucky enough to have a Hobbywing XR10 waterproof version (HW30112605), look no further. But I've also made a guide on how to waterproof a regular XR10 (or any modern ESC) in my YT video! Tune your ESC for little or no turbo & boost.
  • If you're using a Hobbywing G3 motor, I recommend the closed endbell set (HW30820056) to stop excess water from entering the motor.
  • Plasti-Dip is your friend! Use it to waterproof almost anything (including the sensor on the motor). I also recommend getting Ambersil Conformal Coating for the sensor board and the ESC boards.
  • Spray WD40 over all your bearings to prevent corrosion following a day of racing in the wet.
Here's the Rain Car Prep Tutorial video

This is what wet weather racing can look like


Waterproof electronics:
Sanwa ERS-971
Sanwa ERB-871
Sanwa CL-series
Sanwa RX-471WP
Sanwa RX-481WP
Sanwa RX-491
Sanwa RX-492
Sanwa RX-493
Hobbywing XR10 PRO Waterproof - HW30112605

Products used in the video:
Ambersil Conformal Coating
Plasti-Dip
Wet Protect spray

Source:

A. Hagberg