Spent a stupid amount of time reevaluating front roll center, spring, and upper link settings on my USGT and got the car even better and faster. Including my two latest setup sheets here (USGT and VTA) and some "just the facts" notes about each.

First and foremost, I really wish the cero had a way to shorten the front arm up to add camber gain -- the USGT front tires are very FLAT and could use a little more gain. I ended up going +1mm to 4mm total on the outside upper link (upper kingpin) in front with SAK-C138C L=8 5.2mm ball studs.

I had reported here previously that anything besides 2mm front arm mounts in the front was just too much steering coming in at low speed, but with the additional changes to camber gain, 1.5mm mounts really were the ticket and brought in a very smooth and rich low speed behavior around our numerous small sharp corners on our medium to high grip small black carpet track. When I travel to the Omaha hobbyplex, which has carpet offroad on the same track and is lower grip, I have to really detune my car, usually removing rear ball stud washers and or going with a lighter sway bar. That's just the nature of the beast, but the point is you should have those two settings on speed dial along with rear camber and just be ready to change them as conditions dictate. I consider the book setup 2mm rear washers, 2deg camber, and 1.1 bar as the base, and as grip goes up/dictates, I go to the 1.2 rear bar, add rear washers (remove camber gain, lower rc a little), and last (usually as my VTA tires are getting rounder) I start removing camber and saucing less of the rear tire (pretty much only a vta thing). Also, as your USGT tires cone in front, swap front and rear and adjust the rear for the less grip they have. This actually makes the car very quick and you basically get twice the tire life. I don't care if that seems cheap, it works, and I have two kids racing on-road and off-road in multiple classes so if I can save a buck, you know I am.

The big data points are that for the front I'm at zero washers on the inside upper arms for both cars and 1.5mm arm mounts, but the top heavier VTA benefits from thicker oils. The USGT really benefits from the xray 2.5-2.8 progressive spring, where as the VTA feels great with the kit yellow and isn't overly responsive at all, probably due to the huge tires and body roll. Both cars are good with kit green in the rear, 1.2 bar, and really only have minor differences in rear ball stud washer and camber settings. The VTA basically has a huge rear tire that rounds up (even the belted one, albeit much much less) and needs to be freed up, so I'll play around with rear washer and camber depending on rear tire condition.

One thing I have in my list of things to experiment with next is front flex. I tend to not mess with flex as we can get pretty high grip levels, but I would be remiss if I didn't give it a go.