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Issue 133 (December 2006) Words: Jeff Eveleigh
A properly set up starter box is essential to good track performance, but many people overlook this vital step and are unable to get their mill started in a timely manner. We've all seen it before in the pits at a race: some guy fumbling around trying to line the engine's flywheel up with the starter donut of the starter box. He's bent over looking through the small crack between the box and the chassis hoping the flywheel will make contact with the spinning rubber. The driver is yelling at him to hurry up and all the other cars are extending their lead as precious seconds are lost. All of this can be avoided by taking just a few minutes to properly setup your starter box to authoritatively erupt your bucket of nitro power into a screamer in seconds. Check out this mess of words to find out how you can setup the ultimate starter box.
Setup
The basic criterion that must be fulfilled for your starter box to work perfectly is that your chassis must fit onto the box without excessive movement, allowing the flywheel to align perfectly with the starter donut. This ensures that when you push your vehicle down on the box to engage the switch and begin the rotation of the starter motor, the flywheel and rubber donut will make immediate contact and start your engine. Here are the steps necessary to attain this outcome.

1. Your first step is to mark where your engine flywheel is in relation to the flywheel hole in the chassis. The simplest method is to use a permanent marker to scribe two marks on the chassis, to indicate whether the flywheel is offset from left to right or from front to back of the flywheel hole. If your engine's flywheel is directly in the center of the hole, then this step is easy. You should end up with two markings on your chassis after this step: one mark will extend straight out from the pilot shaft or clutch nut, and the other mark will be centered perfectly with the knurled part of the flywheel. You may need to remove some components such as your fuel tank or side guards to get complete access to your chassis, so you can make the markings.


2.Remove your engine, clutch, and exhaust from your vehicle so you have a clear view of the flywheel hole in your chassis. Be sure that all of the other components to the chassis (such as suspension arms, shocks, turnbuckles, etc.) are still installed. This will ensure that the vehicle remains exactly as it will be when starting the engine, except for the absence of the engine.


3.Place your rolling chassis less the engine onto your starter box and line up the markings from step one around the flywheel hole with the rubber starter donut. You want to be sure that the highest point of the rubber starter donut will make contact with the lowest point of your engine's flywheel. You also want to be sure that the mark that extended along the knurled portion of the flywheel lines up perfectly in the center of the rubber starter donut. This is the most vital step, as it determines how accurate the alignment is between the flywheel and starter wheel.


4.All starter boxes come with some sort of adjustable guide pegs that allow you to key your chassis onto the starter box. Now that your flywheel is lined up perfectly with the starter donut, you can mark where these guide pegs will mount onto the top of your starter box. The most common place is between the chassis and suspension arms on all four corners of the car, with two at the front and two at the rear. This is not carved in stone, so you can mount the guide pegs anywhere you feel necessary to ensure that the flywheel is lined up with the rubber starter donut, and your vehicle will not shift and cause misalignment. Once the guide pegs are accurately marked, remove your car and install the pegs securely in place. Most starter boxes are universal and provide an infinite number of mounting positions for the guide pegs. If the options provided meet the needs of your mounting, then use them, but if they don't it may be necessary to drill new holes for your specific vehicle's needs.


5.Once you have the guide pegs in place, double check that the chassis fits slop-free into the guides and that the markings on the flywheel hole match with the rubber donut within the starter box. If there are slight differences in the alignment, now is the time to fix them. Move the guide pegs along the universal mounts, or slot the holes you drilled to provide the perfect alignment. Now install your engine, clutch, and exhaust system onto your chassis again.


6.Alignment is the key to a speedy working starter box, but there is more to starter perfection than just the fit of the chassis. If the switch that starts the electric starter motor is engaged too early or too late, there is still more setup to be done. If your starter motor switch connects too early, the mass of the vehicle simply sitting on the box may trigger the motor and cause the starter box to run continuously. If the switch connects too late, the compression of the engine may be too high for the electric starter motor to overcome from a static position. The ideal time for the switch to make contact and rotate the starter motor is after downward pressure has been placed on the vehicle on the starter box but just before the flywheel actually comes in contact with the rubber donut. The starter box switch is fully adjustable and adjustments are usually made simply with a small screw accessible externally. Read through your starter instructions to learn more about switch adjustments, then give yours a quick look to be sure it is connecting at exactly the correct time.


7.Now it's time to test the setup. With your starter box turned on, drop your vehicle into place and press down on it. If the previous steps were followed properly, the flywheel should be aligned perfectly with the rubber starter donut, the motor should switch on just before the engine flywheel makes contact with the rubber donut, and the engine should turn over immediately without having to move the chassis or tweak the pressure downward in any way.

Before we wrap up there is one final issue that needs attention, and that has to do with the direction of starter donut rotation. When you are looking at your engine from the front, and the first thing you see is the clutch assembly with the carburetor directly behind it, the direction of flywheel rotation is counter clockwise. Make sure to double check that your starter box is rotating your engine in the correct direction before you try to start it; nitro mills can start backwards ,and this usually doesn't give you the holeshot once the race start tone sounds.


Multiple Chassis
Some people use the same starter box for many different vehicles. Because of this they don't properly set up the alignment pegs, making engine starting sketchy at best. A simple solution to this is to make markings on your starter box for all of your chassis and re-adjust the pegs for each chassis you use. It is rare that you'll be using many different vehicles in one day so take the extra few seconds to move the alignment pegs to their pre-marked positions for a given chassis before you hit the track.


These steps are not hard to follow, nor are they time consuming for that matter, but these extra measures will get you onto the track where you belong faster. Now that everything is lined up, when your glow igniter is attached and your vehicle is pushed down on the starter box, you will have consistent engine starts even when the high pressures of racing are put onto your pit crew. Late race starts and flameouts will be tackled with ease and the pressure will be put back where it belongs, on the driver.

Starter Box Quick Tips
1. Ensure your battery is secure within the starter box. Use heavy-duty tie straps, fiber tape, or even "Goop" (Shoo Goo) to be sure that the battery doesn't come loose during use.

2. Always charge your battery the night before you will need the starter box. Some batteries cannot be quick charged, so if you forget on race day, it may be too late.

3. Ensure that all exposed connections are fully insulated with shrink tubing or electrical tape. Most starter boxes are made of metal that can easily cause a short circuit if wires or battery terminals are exposed.

4. Make sure that your engine flywheel is perfectly aligned with the rubber starter donut and that the trigger switch is engaging at the correct time.
(read the article, ya dough head)

5. Keep your starter box clean. Dirt, fuel, and oil can build up on the outside and inside of your starter box so open the sucker up every once in a while and wipe it down.

6. Be nice but don't always share. Mom taught us that sharing is the kind thing to do, but if everyone is using your starter box, it may not be ready when you need it, such as when a "flameout" occurs while leading the A-main. Dead batteries don't start engines too quickly (refer back to tip #2).

7. Regular inspection and maintenance is wise. Rubber donuts wear out, motors get tired, and electrical connections can weaken. If you find these problems and replace or repair them before they affect you your starter box, it will always be there when you need it.
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