OFNA Jammin’ X1-CRT RTR The first ever ROAR MT Champ goes RTR
Words: Jason Sams
A few years ago, bashers and racers added wheel extensions, wide offset wheels and truck bodies to their 1/8-scale buggies to create what are now known as truggies. Now, the once-laughed-at Unlimited Monster Truck class has become the “truggy class,” and all of the big-name brands are jumping in. Jammin’ Products’ pro-level X1-CRT kit holeshotted when Jammin’ Jay Halsey won the first ever ROAR Unlimited Monster Truck National Championship last year. How do you follow that act? You release a ready-to-run version. The CRT RTR adds a shaft-start system, a .28 engine and a race-ready steering servo to deliver an RTR that screams “race.” With that type of cred, the X1-CRT RTR should be pretty damn good. We, of course, had to set the truck down on the track and see for ourselves.
TESTING: ROUND 1 Before I hit the track and leaned out the engine, I put the Force .28 through my usual break-in, but I turned the idle screw in nearly one full turn so that the truck would continue to run for break-in. I didn’t have to lean the engine out much—just about an hour on bottom and three hours on top. After a few tanks of moderate runs with the engine at operating temperature, it was time to test the CRT RTR at Hot Rod Hobbies’ new 1/8-scale-friendly layout. Owner Jimmy Babcock recognized the growing popularity of buggy and truggy racing, so he redesigned the 1/10-scale track; the lanes are now 2 feet wider, and the jumps are bigger. Before I hit the track, I suspected that the Force .28 would be the truck’s highlight because it had a nut blubbery rich idle during break-in. When leaned out, the engine was fast. I never expected the truck to clear big triples with just the blip of the throttle, and it had too much speed for the track’s back straightaway. I had to shut the truck down before it reached top speed, and thankfully, the fiber brakes slowed the truck in a hurry. The brakes brought the truck’s nose down after near vertical takeoffs. I grinned from ear to ear because this truck felt as good as the CRT pro kit that I have been racing. When we broke out the radar gun, this sucker hit 45.9mph, which is ballistic for a truggy. The Airtronics 94161 servo had more than enough torque and speed to put the truck exactly where I wanted it. Because of this servo, tight turns and sweepers didn’t present any problems. The truck felt agile because of its good steering response and plush suspension. Although this track’s jumps are large for 1/10-scale cars, the CRT cleared them easily. The truck landed smoothly and never needed time to settle. I was on the gas as soon as the tires met the dirt. I began to put in what I thought were consistent laps, forgetting that I was pushing it with an RTR. The only negative I noticed during testing was how much the center and front diffs unloaded when I hammered the throttle. In short shoots and on the straightaway, the truck squatted while the front tires expanded. After I exited the corners and got back on the gas, the inside rear tire did the same. These handling characteristics aren’t a problem for most people, but for racing, you should use a much thicker diff oil in the front and center diffs. From tank to tank, the powerhouse Force .28 never exceeded 235 degrees F. I cut a hole in the left side of the windshield and cut out nearly the entire driver’s-side window to help cool the engine. The weather was in the mid-’60s during testing, and that was perfect for running this truck. ROUND 2 With the stock tires, the CRT had plenty of traction, but the stockers are wider than Pro-Line Crime Fighter MTs. I wanted to see if the truck would be more responsive with new rubber and Pro-Line’s gray (firm) foam inserts for monster trucks. I also popped out the center diff and replaced the grease with OFNA 50,000WT diff oil. To improve acceleration and to prevent the tires from ballooning, I reduced the diff action. With the new tires and foam, the truck felt a bit stiffer, and it was certainly more responsive, but it also reacted to the track more. The thick goo in the center diff nearly eliminated the tire ballooning. The truck used more of the front tires to exit corners and get up to full speed, which was much better than in stock trim. I ran only a few tanks with the new tires and diff setup, but I liked the crisp, buggy-like handling. After a tank of fuel, the tire foam seemed to soften a bit. The truck felt a little softer and less reactive to bumps and track imperfections. The CRT RTR can be raced right out of the box, and with a few tweaks, it feels very similar to a pro truck with expensive running equipment. Bashers and future racers will be stoked with this machine.
CHASSIS » 3.5mm 6061 aluminum » Radiused sides » Fully countersunk » Front and rear plastic chassis braces The CRT’s steering brace, servo tray, center-diff brace and towers are all anodized gunmetal gray to match the chassis. The coating is solid; hardly any of it wore off the bottom of the chassis during testing. Hex hardware holds the modular chassis together. By removing just a few screws, you can remove the front end, rear end, center diff, or servo tray from the main chassis for repairs and service. The countersunk holes around the flywheel opening and the center diff are for the optional Z brace. The chassis’ layout is similar to that of an 1/8-scale buggy, but the throttle servo and center diff sit much higher to accommodate the large 62-tooth spur gear required for the buggy-spec transmission ratio. DRIVETRAIN » Full-time 4WD » Sealed, silicone-filled differentials » Rubber-sealed ball bearings » Center and rear dogbones The CRT uses the same ring and pinion gears as the X1 buggy, but that ratio is too tall for monster racing. A lightened 62-tooth spur gear with a hardened 13-tooth clutch bell raises the overall drive ratio to 15.74:1 to accommodate the larger-diameter monster truck tires. Stainless-steel calipers clamp the fiberglass brake rotors to stop the 9-pound monster. The brakes on each side of the center diff allow you to adjust front and rear brake bias. Setting the rear brakes stronger than the front will help bring the rear end around corners. It will also minimize the front end’s diving when you hit the brakes in midair. ENGINE & ACCESSORIES » Force .28 engine » 3-shoe clutch » Finned 2-piece engine mounts » 150cc tank » Polished-aluminum tuned pipe and header Force supplies the CRT’s .28 powerplant. It has the usual ABC construction and aluminum-body slide carb, but the sleeve is a 5-port design rather than the usual 3. The 2 ports must be doing something because the engine rips. Shaft starting is an added bonus. The engine gear is pretty slick. Aluminum clutch shoes hit hard for good bottom end, and the polished tuned pipe and header look “factory.” A ROAR-legal 150cc tank with a stone filter holds enough fuel for 8-minute-plus sessions. Fuel clips hold the neatly installed fuel line out of harm’s way. I found the engine’s linkages and gear mesh were spot-on and didn’t require any final tweaking. Noobs, you’ll appreciate the hassle-free setup. SUSPENSION & STEERING » 4mm aluminum shock towers » Threaded, aluminum-body shocks » Steel turnbuckle tie rods » Dual-bellcrank system with adjustable servo-saver Plush, big-bore, long-travel shocks suspend the CRT at all four corners. Knurled collars allow you to adjust ride height and preload easily and precisely, and O-rings in the collars grab the shock bodies to hold your settings. Front and rear swaybars are standard, and they help to keep the long-travel truck flat in the corners. For easy toe and camber adjustments, 7mm steel turnbuckles are fitted. All of the truck’s hingepins are steel and are captured by E-clips. Screw-type hingepins are upgrades you’ll appreciate when you’re wrenching on the truck. Cast-aluminum steering knuckles are secured to the truck’s C-hubs by T-bolts that are inserted from inside the knuckle. The bolts pass through the C-hub and are secured by Nyloc nuts. This is an improvement on the usual kingpin setup where male kingpins thread into holes tapped in the knuckle and tend to loosen easily or cause binding when thread-locked. BODY, WHEELS & TIRES » Painted and trimmed body » Jammin’ Brick Pin tires » Dish wheels » Truck-specific mini-wing The CRT’s four-color paint scheme is as nice as RTRs come. You can thank the Jammin’ graphics guys for not standing out at the local track if you choose to venture there. If you want to preserve the body, Shoe-Goo the inside corners around the roof to prevent premature cracking. The Brick Pin tires come mounted on white dish wheels, and decals are included to simulate the cool bead-locked look. Thankfully, the bond between tire and rim is excellent, so rest assured, you won’t have to reglue these puppies before the tires wear out. The rear wing looks slick because it isn’t as big and cumbersome as a buggy wing; however, it doesn’t provide as much downforce. You can change the wing’s pitch by using the lower holes in the mounts.
The CRT’s boxy body and bead-lock wheel graphics give it tough look while the trademark mini-wing delivers appropriate downforce.
The nutted kingpins stay tight without thread-lock. Hard-anodized stub axles are a nice touch.
Plenty of shock and camber-link options plus front and rear swaybars make the CRT highly tunable.
The steering rack gives you three Ackerman options, and molded plastic braces support the gearboxes.
The included Force .28 engine is hiding a 5-port sleeve under its 13-fin head. Nothing unlucky about that 13; the engine ran great.
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