Modified electric racing has
always taken a back seat to the stock class in participation
nationwide. However, the modified class has consistently
attracted the world's best driving talent at the most
prestigious racing events.
Trinity,
which has pioneered many of the innovations seen in electric
motors, fired the latest shot in the power wars of modified
racing with the introduction of the D4 Copper Head motor. This
motor represents the latest in high-performance technology
from Trinity and features a host of innovations.
Can.
The D4's shell is a 1.4mm can with a black crinkle finish.
According to Trinity, this coating is supposed to provide
better heat dissipation. The can doesn't have large vents
around its circumference or on its mounting surface. Trinity
claims that large vent holes compromise the integrity of the
magnetic field and result in a subtle loss of efficiency and
torque production. It's what's inside the can, however, that
is one of the D4's truly unique features. For the first time
ever, the industry has a modified motor with removable
magnets. Trinity devised a clever system of stops indented in
one side of the can and a slide-in clip on the other to secure
the magnets. The obvious advantage is that the magnets can be
replaced when they begin to lose their strength; there's no
expense of buying a new can or even an entire motor.
Trinity
also parlayed this feature into another innovation based on a
lesson learned years ago in manufacturing slot-car motors—matched
magnets. Trinity matches the magnets that go into every D4.
Using a gauss meter to measure the magnetic strength of each
one before it's placed in the can, Trinity pairs magnets of
similar strength. All other motors, including Trinity's
previous D3.5, have the magnets epoxied into place at the
factory. If the magnets are of different strengths, Trinity
claims it creates a condition in which the magnets
"fight" each other—something like trying to race a
horse with stubby front legs. The process of matching the
magnets, irrespective of relative strength, keeps the magnets
"in phase" with one another, and improves overall
performance.
Armature.
Trinity uses two armatures in the D4, depending on the number
of winds. Motors above 12 turns use a thin-web armature;
motors in the 12-turn and fewer range take advantage of a
beefier armature with a thicker web. Some winds use armatures
of both styles, but 12 turns are usually the benchmark.
Left:
It's what's inside the can that is one of the D4's
truly unique features. For the first time ever, the
industry has a modified motor with removable magnets.
Right:
The armature with the groove on the crown (left)
features a thick web for motors with 12 turns or less.
The thin-web version (right) is for motors with more
than 12 turns. Using different armatures is claimed to
provide better wire-to-metal ratios and make power
delivery more consistent across a variety of winds. |
The purpose is to balance the wire-to-metal ratio of the
assembled armature. According to technology that's way above
me, there is supposed to be an ideal ratio of wire-to-armature
mass to maximize performance. According to this principle,
using a single armature for a wide variety of configurations
isn't ideal. If an armature is best suited to a 13-turn setup,
using the same armature with more turns (15 or 16, for
example) would result in good torque output but in a
disproportionate loss of rpm.
The
opposite is true of motors that have fewer turns. Nine-turn
motors, for example, would be able to produce very high rpm
but would fall short in the torque department. Yet another
available option related to the armature has to do with the
wind configuration rather than the stacks. Trinity also offers
what's called a High-Variance (HV) Split Double wind that uses
one strand of thick wire and one strand of thin. This is
supposed to reduce inductance and make throttle response a
little more crisp for high-traction applications like touring
cars and 4WD buggies. I unfortunately didn't get a chance to
test one of the HV motors because they were not available
during testing.
Endbell.
The endbell is where the D4 gets its "Copper Head"
trademark. Affixed to the endbell are pure copper heat sinks
and brush hoods. The purpose of using copper hardware is to
take advantage of the reduced resistance copper offers and get
more power through the brushes to the armature. Copper is
soft, so it's more susceptible to breakage if bent back and
forth, but Trinity is already working on an update for the
brush hoods/solder tabs to make them as durable as possible.
Left:
The D4 has pure copper heat sinks and brush hoods.
Copper is an excellent conductor, so it allows more
power to get through to the motor. The design of the
soldering tabs is being changed to prevent the softer
copper from breaking if it's bent too much.
Right:
The built-in surface-mounted capacitors are visible
when the brush hood is removed. The D4 motors have
three capacitors—the number recommended by most
radio and speed-control manufacturers. |
The brush hoods are affixed to the endbell using a standard
spring post on one side and an Allen-head screw and
blue-anodized aluminum heat sink on the other. Brush vibration
dampers are also installed in the top of both brush hoods.
Trinity has also
installed surface-mount capacitors in the endbell, thus
eliminating the need to solder capacitors on the motor prior
to installing it. This technology was first seen in Orion's
chrome modified motors, but Trinity one-upped it by including
a third capacitor.
MOTOR
LABELS
Trinity dyno-tests every D4 and attaches a label to the motor
itemizing the critical performance data. This data helps
educated consumers with information that can help them make
the proper buying decision. During my testing of the D4
motors, I found that the numbers I was getting from the
Robitronic dyno (the equipment used by Trinity) is generally
much higher than indicated on the label. Upon further
investigation, I found Trinity uses clamps to attach the test
leads to the motors (a necessity based of the volume of motors
tested daily). I always solder the leads to the motor as
recommended by the dyno instructions. This subtle difference
is apparently what accounts for the discrepancy in the
numbers.
Left:
Each motor has a label that shows its dyno-test data.
Although the label data is relatively consistent from
one motor to the next, the tests conducted for this
article showed considerably better numbers. On our
dyno, this motor produced: 42,328rpm; 233.9 watts of
power; 79.5 percent efficiency; 248.3 Nmm torque.
Right:
The magnet clip slides between the two magnets to hold
them firmly in place. Once the endbell has been
installed, the locking ring prevents the magnet clip
from working its way out of the can. |
My point is, you can count on these motors performing better
than indicated by their label. It isn't a bad thing—just
helpful to know that motor performance easily exceeds the
label's claims.
It's
worth noting that removable magnets introduce the issue of
maintenance to modified racers. Whenever magnets are removed
and installed, it's critical that the inside of the motor can
and the magnet's outer surface be clean and completely free of
debris. The tight tolerances between the magnets and armature
are such that even the smallest piece trapped between them
will cause interference. The armature will probably come into
contact with the magnets, and that can introduce a host of
other problems. Just be aware that you need to take extra care
in this area when you're doing maintenance jobs.
The
magnet issue brought an oversight to my attention. Replaceable
magnets are new for many of us, including me. As I attempted
to remove them for inspection, I realized they are pretty
tough to dislodge, even with the magnet clip removed. I ended
up jolting the can with the palm of my hand in an attempt to
dislodge the magnets from the side of the can. This proved to
be the wrong move, as I chipped a corner of both magnets.
After installing a new pair of magnets, I quickly found the
best method of removal is to slide the magnets away from the
indents in the can that hold them in place. As it turns out,
the indents still maintain a firm grip on the magnets even
after the magnet clip has been removed. By sliding the magnets
away from the indents, you make it much easier to pry the
magnets away from the can with your finger so you can remove
them. Just be careful not to slide the magnets too far around
the can. The magnets are extremely strong and can be tough to
separate if they come into contact with each other. When
installing them, it's important to note that the magnet that's
white along its top edge with a red dot is the positive one.
Be sure to line up the positive side of the endbell (timing
adjustment notwithstanding) with the positive magnet. Getting
back to my original point: the oversight is that magnet
removal and installation procedures aren't outlined in the
instructions.
FINAL
ANALYSIS
The Trinity D4 series offers a measurable improvement over any
of the company's past offerings. The combination of the new
can, armatures and endbell and the option of standard or HV
winds offer racers more application-specific mills than ever
before. The can's modular design and replaceable matched
magnets also score points for those of us who watch our
wallet. It simply costs less to maintain a strong level of
performance with the D4.
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