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Issue 131 (October 2006) Words: Jeff Eveleigh
Racing on foam tires is amazing; there's tons of traction, no tires to glue, good grip right to the rim, and they are relatively inexpensive compared to a set of rubber shoes. The only issue with foam tire racing is that the tires come out of the box huge and generally useless on the track unless you bolt them to a tire truing machine and work your magic before you slap them onto your racing machine. We hooked up with foam tire master Josh Cyrul to find out what he does on the truer and got some setup tips that will make your foam tire racing experience that much faster on the track.
Difficulty Meter and Tools Required
THE PROCESS
1 Before you even think about firing up your tire truer you have to determine what you are trying to do with your foams. Whether you are starting with a fresh set or just cleaning up an older set you must determine your desired tire diameter. If you are working with a used set of tires and want to match sizes or flatten out a few coned tires, you are best to start working with the smallest diameter tire and match the rest to that one so you are removing the least amount of material. This offers you the longest tire life when you are finished with the truing process.


2Assuming that you are working with brand new tires that are usually way oversized, you first need to rough them down so you are close to the size you want before you do the precision truing to the actual race size. Make sure there is no flashing on the rim or debris on the tire truer hub to ensure that the wheel assembly mounts flat to the machine and provides an even cut. Also be careful not to over-tighten the mounting nut or you may warp the wheel, causing an untrue finished wheel. Some truing machines have an option as to what direction you want the truer to rotate the tire. If you have the option, rotate the tire towards you for this step. Rough cut all of the tires down to about 1mm bigger than you want, and set them aside in the order you cut them. Temperature can affect the final size of the tire, so to ensure accurate tire diameter you want to let the tires fully cool down before you make the final cut to size. After you rough down the last tire, mount up the first tire you worked with (which should be cooled down) before you move onto the next step.


3 With your first tire mounted to the machine, you are ready to do the final cut. Most tire truers have some sort of a measuring device and lock, so the cut diameter stays consistent. It is recommended that you use a set of calipers to verify the tire diameter of your first tire, but once you know the size is accurate, lock the machine for the other three tires. It is a wise idea to pass the cutter over the face of the tire a few times to ensure all of the material has been removed and to create the smoothest finish possible.


ROUND OR SQUARE?
Rounded tire edges with a radius between 1/16" and 1/8" is the most common setup for foam tire racing. This setup offers the most consistency when it comes to on-track performance, but Josh says you can round the edges even further if the track is super high-bite but really rough. This offers you a more controlled slide without losing too much grip. A rounded tire edge will keep the tire on its contact patch better and you'll have fewer worries of the tire rolling over onto the side wall which will break the car loose through a turn. Rounded edges will also help to reduce foam tire chunking, which can become a huge issue, especially during longer nitro main events.
The least common cut when it comes to foam tires is a square edge. A tire with a square edge will always be riding on that edge, thus taking side grip away from that area. If you run a square edge on the front tires you will get less steering. A square edge at the rear causes your car to be very inconsistent--it offers increased forward grip but much less side traction. The track surface has to be very smooth for square edges to work on the rear tires.
Josh will usually run the same type of edge cut front and rear except in 1/12 scale where it's common to run a square edge at the front and a rounded edge on the rear tires. Josh also used a mixed cut when he raced at the Gas Nationals in Texas. The track was really rough with very little grip, so he ran square fronts but rounded rear tires with an excessive amount of radius cut into the edge. The square cut on the front prevented his car from over-steering while the rounded rears stayed consistent over the bumps, making his car easier to drive.


Truing Camber Into Tires
Truing camber into your rear foam tires is a trick used for longer nitro mains. It is almost unheard of in electric classes where race lengths are much shorter, so if you're racing electric you are best to stick with the good old fashioned flat tire true. With nitro racing, if you don't run enough negative camber at the rear your tires will wear flat or cone to the outside. This greatly increases your risk of chunking a tire during your hour long main, so to combat this Josh usually trues his rear foams with about 1 degree of camber into them so the diameter of the outside of the tire is larger than the diameter of the inside of the tire. Nitro front tires are always cut flat. The rear camber is set within the chassis to maintain the 1 degree of coning towards the center of the car within the tire. In some rare cases where traction is "stupid high," Josh says he'll cut a bit more camber into the rear tires to a maximum of 2 degrees.


4 Your tire now has square edges that need to be addressed. Use a file or sandpaper to round the edges slightly both on the inside and outside of the tire, and smooth the face of the tire even further to help it break-in quicker on the track. You can hold a piece of sandpaper in your hand, but it is usually better to get some adhesive sandpaper and adhere it to a stick to give you better grip and keep your hands away from the moving tire. 120-grit sandpaper is usually good, but you can go coarser for harder tires or finer for soft tires or to smooth the face of your tire even further by removing most of the tire grain left by the truing machine. If possible, the direction of the truer rotation should now be away from you, but if you are using a directional file you want to hold it backwards so the tire is rotating into the cutting edge of the file. This will prevent you from having the tire rotate towards you, which could cause the file to fly in your direction if it catches on the tire.


5 Repeat the above steps for the other three tires after ensuring that they've had enough time to cool so their diameters are in check. After you've done all four tires let them cool down, and verify their diameters one last time before you mount them onto your chassis and hit the track.


Multiple Tire Sizes
Foam tires mounted at the front and rear and left to right of your chassis won't always wear at the same rate during a race, so Josh likes to experiment with varying tire diameters around his car to match wear as best he can. For indoor carpet racing Josh will estimate wear patterns and set up a stagger with his foams, run three or four practice races to scuff his tires in and bring them to equal sizes, then set them aside for a big race. This ensures that all of his tires are the same diameter for the shorter electric races while still scuffing them in on the track. Once he starts racing with these perfect tires he'll swap the left and right tires back and forth after each battery pack run. Josh will only practice with his electric car on different tire diameters to match them; he will never start an actual electric race on staggered tires.
Racing nitro cars on foam tires is an entirely different game. Josh will sometimes run multiple tire diameters during qualifying but always for the longer mains. You'll have to do some experimenting to determine tire wear characteristics for your chassis on your specific track and then use some common sense to estimate starting diameters. Josh says that with a track that runs clockwise he'll usually start with the left side of the car with tires that are 0.5mm larger than the right side on both the front and rear. If his rear tires are wearing more than his fronts then he'll run both rears another 0.5mm larger than the fronts. Here is an example of a starting tire diameter setup that Josh would try for a longer nitro race. Let's say he wants to run a 60mm tire. He'll experiment with the front right tire cut to 60mm, the front left tire to 60.5mm, the right rear tire to 61mm, and the left rear tire to 61.5mm. After this initial setup he'll do some testing on the track and alter his stagger from there.
Track direction for this type of setup would be clockwise. You'll need to experiment with different diameters that suit your chassis and track layout or conditions.


CLOSING
As most racers will tell you, if your tires aren't right it doesn't matter how good your chassis setup is; you aren't winning. With that in mind the perfect prep of your foam tires is crucial to success on the track, so read this article carefully to ensure you carve your tires to perfection every time. Don't forget to experiment with some of these tips from Josh Cyrul and you'll see why he's got more National Titles than most people have sets of tires.
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