If you're using a B4.1 servo horn, you may have noticed the plastic is softer. I've noticed that if you put a tall bal stud on it, the horn flexes, which makes the front wheels flap about on high-grip surfaces.

Better to use a short neck ball stud such as LOSA9949 or LOSA6029. And a little nut makes it extra secure.

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More finesse with ball studs: the manual calls for 2 washers under the stud on the steering spindle because of the 30° of castor, but this achieves the same rod angle with less washers and a lower rod.

I use a ASC41281 (short) on the inboard end, and ASC6275 (tall) on the spindle. No washers required. And as an added bonus: the ball studs have less of a tendency to wiggle themselves loose.

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I use a losa6044 rod end with a bolt and a nut for high-load applications such as the rear hub. It's bulletproof and slop-free.

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For convenient battery changes, you can slot 2 of the 4 holes in the battery brace.

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A bulletproof way of fastening a capacitor: dremel 2 holes in the chassis, near the floor, and use 2 tie-wraps. Blue is better.