| Thanks to Mark Tombs for this
idea. Mark cut a slot at the front for the tape, then ran it through with
a file and looped it all the way round the back of the chassis. Although,
velcro could also be used. Obviously, Mark flattened all protrusions using
a cut off wheel then an engraving bit.
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Cyril Baldini Lithum-Polymer
battery mounting:
The battery slot were filled
with a bi component glue from Würth, this glus is mainly on bodyshop to
fix bumpers.
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Dan Greenwood Lithum-Polymer battery
mounting:
It's simply a piece of Carbon slotted for a
strap, then screwed into the back of the chassis at the right height for
the cells you're using.
Front end is a battery post
drilled in the right position
Couple of self indulgent
photos of cars with new SMC lipos in them (4000mah 28C), they are really
good so far though only used them a couple of times.
Did you need to dremel
the chassis much? It looks like you've removed one of the battery post
bosses and the half moon at the back, but that's all it seems.
Also, the side section on the strap that reaches back towards the
chassis....does this attach anywhere or is it just touching the side of
the belt tunnel?
Finally, regarding the small piece of CF that the strap slides into, how
is this attached to the chassis. Are there nuts on the other side of
those screws or have you just screwed into the chassis directly?
The chassis will require the
following items dremelling;
- Rear half moon
- Both original battery mounts bosses
- The rear aerial mount (depending on the size of your LiPo)
If you intend to run your speedo in the two cell area, then you'll need
to take out the battery mount bosses on that side too.
On Dan's strap the 'leg' that sticks out towards to the belt tunnel is
simply a hang over from the source part he used (B4/T4 strap) so not
entirely required. This might actually depend on the make of LiPo, so
I'll let Dan confim if it's needed.
The rear slotted section on mine is screwed with two countersunk 4-40
screws into the lowest section on the chassis. I chose those area as
it's the thickest section of the mould and I therefore didn't require
any nuts that might have fouled the LiPo.
Make sure you use countersunk screws as any other type will foul the
wishbone travel, so just double check things as you start your
measuring/dremelling. Phil Sleigh
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