- TeamC Racing TM4 - Tony Phalen - Review -

The Build – Part 7 – Front Suspension
The next step in the Team C TM4 build is assembling and attaching the front suspension.

Build Notes:
- Pay close attention to the left and right parts used in each step. It will be easy to mix these up but I’ll try and call them out as much as I can.
- The front droop screws are impossible to get to once the front suspension is attached to the car, so make sure you set both sides equal when installing.

Step 54: The first thing we want to do is discern the left and right steering block. The one on the left is the left-hand block, the one on the right is the right-hand block. Mine didn’t have L and R markings on them like the manual shows.

Step 55: We need to discern the front and rear CVD’s as well. The front’s are 74mm, shown at the bottom; the rears are 62mm, shown at the top. The lengths are etched into the bones for easy identification.

Step 56: The front caster blocks are also directional, meaning there is a left and right one. These are easily identified by the 10R and 10L molded into the backside of them. Just make sure you put the 10R on the right side; the 10L on the left side.

Step 57: Let’s start by pressing a 5×13 and 5×10 bearing into each steering block. Keep track of the left and right blocks.

Step 58: Attach the left steering block to the 10L caster block and the right steering block to the 10R caster block. Do not overtighten the screws; make sure the steering blocks rotate easily.

Step 59: Insert the front CVD assembly (74mm ones) through the steering block. Slide the axle pin through the hole.

Step 60: Attach the wheel hex and secure with the M2x5 screw. Be careful not to overtighten. Complete both sides.

Step 61: Here are your completed steering block assemblies.

Step 62: The front suspension arms are both the same so it doesn’t matter which side you install them on. Insert the M3x10 setscrew (the manual states a M3x8, but it should be a 10mm) into the droop hole in the arm. Screw it in so it’s about half way through the arm and an equal amount sticks out of both sides. This will be a good starting point, however as mentioned before it’s impossible to adjust when the assembly is complete.

Step 63: Locate the outer hinge pin. Note the groove recessed in it; this is where the set screw from the steering block will help capture it.

Step 64: Slide the hinge pin through the arm and steering block assembly.

Step 65: Screw the M3x3 setscrew into the hole in the bottom of the steering block. It SHOULD seat in the groove in the hinge pin. Do not overtighten; it’s easy to strip this hole out.

Step 67: Locate and separate the hinge pin inserts. These inserts allow you to change kickup and roll centers on the TM4. For the build we’ll be using four of the 0° inserts – the hole will be dead center in the insert.

Step 68: Press the 0° insert into the FR arm mount.

Step 69: Slide the inner hinge pin through the suspension arm and into the 0° insert in the FR arm mount. Make sure you are mounting the left suspension arm assembly to the left side of the car and vice versa.

Step 70: Press another 0° insert into the FF arm mount and attach it to the front of the bulkhead, capturing the front of the hinge pins. Screw it into place.

Step 71: Attach the front bumper.

Step 72: Thank you Team C for supplying 6 turnbuckles that are all the same length. This makes it much easier to build. No, mine didn’t come gold … that’s the awesome lighting in the room.

Step 73: Build 6 turnbuckles; 2 steering, 2 front camber and 2 rear camber. Make sure you keep them separated so you know which goes where.

Step 74: Screw a short ballstud into the steering arm and a long ballstud into the caster block, steering rack (with a 3×5 washer) and shock tower (captured by a M3 nut). BE CAREFUL tightening the short ball stud (in the steering arm). Once I completed this, I noticed some stress marks forming.

Step 75: Insert the CVDs into the outdrives and pop the front caster links and steering links onto the front of the TM4. You did keep track of which ones were which, right?

There ya go; front suspension complete. Make sure the front arms move up and down without binding.

Next: Rear Suspension