- TeamC Racing TM4 - Tony Phalen - Review -

The Build – Part 5 – Steering
In Part 5 of our Team C TM4 build, we install the servo, servo saver and complete steering rack. We also get to build ONE turnbuckle.

Build Notes:
- You may want to hook up your electronics to make sure your servo is centered prior to installation. The TM4 positions the servo with the horn facing out, so even if it isn’t centered, fixing it at the end of the build is no big deal.
- During the servo saver build portion, I suggest using a little bit of black grease inbetween the saver arms. This helps prevent any dirt or grime from sneaking in there and causing any binding. I’ve noted this in the actual step as well.

Step 37: Let’s start by attaching the servo arm and mounts to whatever servo you’ll be using. Don’t tighten down the screws in the mounts all the way just yet. In my TM4, I’m dropping in a Savox SC-1257TG servo.

Step 38: Slide the servo assembly into position and attach with the two M3x8 screws. You can now tighten down the servo mount screws.

Step 39: Pre-compress the servo saver spring. One or two full compressions should be good.

Step 40: Grab your servo saver arms and, as mentioned in the build notes, apply a little black grease to them as shown.

Step 41: Now assemble the servo saver per the manual. Screw the servo saver adjustment nut up so that there is a 8mm gap between the nut and the bottom of the lower servo saver arm. Since most manufacturers measure on the side of saftely, I’ve found that most high-end servos are strong enough to go without servo savers. Because of this, I like to adjust my servo saver to make it flex a little less, so I set mine at about 6mm. Please do this only if you’re using a good, high-quality racing servo. Anything other than that could result is broken gears inside your servo.

Step 42: Connect the servo saver assembly and left-side servo arm to the steering rack. Do not overtighten the M3 screws; tighten just enough to allow free movement of the rack.

Step 43: Install the pair of steering posts to the chassis. A drop of threadlocker on the M3x8 screws is suggested.

Step 44: Press the 4×8 bearings into the top and bottom of both steering arms and slide the assembly onto the steering posts. It can be a little tricky, so make sure the arms and being lowered onto the posts at exactly the same time. Check that there is free movement in the rack. We are not installing the two orange, 4×6 spacers quite yet. This prevents them from getting lost in case we pick up the car for any reason. We’ll do this once we’re ready to install the top deck.

Step 45: Install a long ball stud into the steering arm and a short ballstud into the servo arm.

Step 48: Building turnbuckles can be a pain sometimes, so I look for tools to help make this a not-so-horrible task. Two items I’ve found are Duratrax’s ball cup tool and Schelle Racing’s multi-turnbuckle tool. I won’t build turnbuckles without either of these. That said, build your drag link turnbuckle.

Step 49: Finally, pop the turnbuckle into place.

Great job. Next step, the top decks.