I'm sure most of you read what Jimmy posted (Jake Thayer's setup). I wanted to explain a little more about the T-plate mod we are doing. Jake told me about this mod a few weeks ago, I tried it with awesome results and I've run it ever since. (Thanks Jake!) This mod allows more side to side flex of the T-plate, which will add some very consistent rear side bite. Plus I haven't heard of anyone breaking T-plates. I know the T-plate can be an issue because you have to purchase the entire J kit (51412) to get one.

If you remove the T-plate form your buggy you will notice 2 towers on each side. We are removing these two towers from the T-plate. After removing the towers you will need to add 2 nuts under the U-brace. Don't worry there are already slots for the nuts to fit into. I added a dab of shoe-goo to make sure the nuts don't fall out of the U-brace when removing the diff case. (Hate losing my nuts!) The nuts in the U-brace are needed to lock the trans case to the U-brace. Originally the screws went through the trans case, through the U-brace and threaded into the towers. So no instead of threading into the towers they thread into the 2 nuts in the U-brace. Reinstall everything and give it a try. I added pics to make it a little easier to understand.

Jimmy also posted that Jake is running the 501x (51279) rear arms with 3deg of antisquat and the HRC. The 501 arms are HUGE. There is more material in the arms...but they seem more flexible to me. (could be me but I like the way they feel on my buggy). When you add the 501 arms and 3mm antisquat and HRC you will need to do a little clearencing to make sure noting binds up. I used a sanding wheel on my drimmel to clear where the diff outdrive rubbed on the arm and where the U-brace would impact the arm. Want to make sure everything is free and doesn't bind, we want those amazing Tamiya shocks to work!



I'm sure most of you read what Jake posted about his setup. I wanted to explain a little more about the T-plate mod we are doing. Jake told me about this mod a few weeks ago, I tried it with awesome results and I've run it ever since. (Thanks Jake!) This mod allows more side to side flex of the T-plate, which will add some very consistent rear side bite. Plus I haven't heard of anyone breaking T-plates. I know the T-plate can be an issue because you have to purchase the entire J kit (51412) to get one.

If you remove the T-plate form your buggy you will notice 2 towers on each side. We are removing these two towers from the T-plate. After removing the towers you will need to add 2 nuts under the U-brace. Don't worry there are already slots for the nuts to fit into. I added a dab of shoe-goo to make sure the nuts don't fall out of the U-brace when removing the diff case. (Hate losing my nuts!) The nuts in the U-brace are needed to lock the trans case to the U-brace. Originally the screws went through the trans case, through the U-brace and threaded into the towers. So no instead of threading into the towers they thread into the 2 nuts in the U-brace. Reinstall everything and give it a try. I added pics to make it a little easier to understand.
Jake also posted that he is running the 501x (51279) rear arms with 3deg of antisquat and the HRC. The 501 arms are HUGE. here is more material in the arms...but they seem more flexible to me. (could be me but I like the way they feel on my buggy). When you add the 501 arms and 3mm antisquat and HRC you will need to do a little clearencing to make sure noting binds up. I used a sanding wheel on my drimmel to clear where the diff outdrive rubbed on the arm and where the U-brace would impact the arm. Want to make sure everything is free and doesn't bind, we want those amazing Tamiya shocks to work!

Ray Kindstrom