I've been holding back on posting a base setup as I wanted the first setup posted to be in the ballpark. We are now about 2 months into setup development with the car and while it was good out of the box it did lack a few things I look for in a buggy. The last 2 months have been spent addressing those issues and understanding the mid motor platform and the effects of having the weight mass more centered in off-road conditions.

One of the biggest areas I've been addressing is just overall balance and stability. Tracks I see in the area can range from medium to high bite in the morning to slick in the mains. It's not uncommon to see some tracks loose as much 1-2 sec in lap times because of track deterioration during the day. Having a car that isn't balanced and using the tires incorrectly can really hurt you as the track changes. This setup I'm able to toss on the track and get around the track at good pace at any traction level.

That's not to say I still don't read the track and make a few changes to optimize for the conditions. Such as when the traction get's high a saddle pack is called for along with taking out the toe-in in the rear hubs. When the traction get's low a shorty + brass weight under it and .5 rear toe-in really locks the car in. By using the brass weight I keep the approximately the same as saddle but move the bias back to around 65.2% for the slicker conditions.

The settings sheet is my low bite track setup. If you find it pushing on exit or even wheeling, pull out the shorty and weight and go to a saddle pack.

Below is a few notes copied from my personal notebook explaining a few of the changes.

Rear Camber Link

My ratings for camber links with Wide Track Width pivot:

• 1-B: longest link I would run right now, it rolls too slowly and alot. The rear end doesn’t pick itself back off the ground while accelerating, and gives the most on-power steering as the car doesn’t square up.
• 2-B: Between 1-B and 1-A in terms of on-power steering. Rotates a little faster as well. Maybe slightly more speed sensitive but not much.
• 1-A: Does everything fast. Squares up very quickly and really allows me to power out of the corner on throttle. 1-A would be my go-to link for low traction with wide pivot.

+.75 Hex Width vs Stock Width
I felt that the added hex width (+.75) made the car rotate more predictably. It felt locked in for higher corner speed sweepers vs narrow. I also felt like I could catch the car more easily if it did break away.

Weight & Bias
From testing we found that anything under 1575g is a bit harder to drive and lacks some consistency, especially on tracks that are a bit lower bite. The weight is also needed to increase the piston speed for the 2x1.7 rear to pack properly. The square pack brings the weight bias a bit more forward (~64.4%) than the shorty + weight under it (~65.2%). Somewhere in there I feel is the sweet spot. For this track maybe the weight as a bit too far back.

Kyosho White Spring vs Pink
White spring gave a bit more stability to the car but reduced some low speed steering vs the Kyosho Pink. Overall I felt faster with it although lap-times didn’t really have a noticeable change. It was very minor.