Motor wires through the belt is ok as there is plenty of room, and definitely the neatest solution for the wiring. It's also not a problem if you ever need to replace a belt, as all you need to do is take out the two LH Middle housing screws and the feed the motor through the belt. The RH and slipper shaft will already be out. It's a lot simpler than it sounds.

Regarding the purple, or lack of it... There are plenty of option parts still available in purple for those who wish to have it, all the shock components, alloy suspension hangers, optional caster blocks, etc.

We tried lots of different belt combinations to move the motor about in the car for the best performance. Where we ended up gave an easy to drive, stable car that carries lots of corner speed.

A cool feature is that we switched the slipper spring away from the spur, so it sits behind the motor. This opens up loads of room for your electrics, so plenty of space to get everything in!

Another new part is a metal strap in the front bumper that stops the front transmission housings spreading apart in huge crashes.

Parts compatability with the SX3:

The 4 quarters including the suspension blocks are the same, apart from:

- Rear drive shafts (New ones are slightly Longer)
- Rear arms (We now use a single outer pin, old ones will still fit with double pin)
- Rear of the rear suspension blocks (Now M4 to eliminate bending)

The diffs are also the same apart from the diff pulley.

Big Bore shocks will bolt straight on for those who wish to use them.

Regarding gearing, with kit you can get down to 7.35:1. The spur gear fitment is the same as the SX3 so you can run any of our smaller spurs on the car so long as you can still get it to mesh. As an example, 83/26 will give an overall of 5.75:1

The problem with having the servo on the other side is that it probably won’t fit (with lugs) due to the belt offset. If you don't mind using one servo mount and ShoeGoo, like some of the TC guy's use, then you may be able to fit it in. If this would be strong enough to hold a servo in OR I don't know, but I wouldn't recommend it. Personally I see no problem with where the servo is at the minute.

Regarding the battery placement, moving the cells forward moves the weight forward and makes the car more reactive. This is my standard positon, and I move the it back on a bumpy track when I want more stability. Only the LH cell is moveable due to the spur gear limiting the RH side.

The Ballcup and Shock shaft combination are designed to be used together, and have been used together for years! However, since the release of the K1, it has become an issue with them pulling out. We are working on a solution that should be available soon (1-2 weeks). In the mean time I would suggest 1 of 2 options:

• a) Tighten the ball cup up fully (ignoring the manual stated lengths), it becomes tight when you get full thread engagement. Do not over tighten as the shaft will eventually deform the plastic sphere that sits over the ball.
• b) The Cougar front rod end can be used, and is a slightly tighter fit. When using this, use a screw into the wishbone. Ensure the screw is long enough, and it may be prone to pulling out due to the M Flex wishbone Material.

Personally, I've had no problems with mine, but I tighten mine up until they are tight and there is full thread engagement.

Tom Cockerill

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Are the Anti Roll Bars similar to the SX3 at the rear, and a new kit for the front?
Both are different.

Simon Moss

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After fiddling with it I still can't figure out what I did wrong.
I even counted he tooth of the the front belt (132) and the belts are installed properly. I checked the fences of the pully's, I even installed the front pully without fences to be sure.
Still the tight front belt, I'm going to take the advice.
Trish from schumacher gave me a reply, he told me : to file the edges of the carbon fibre faces which touch the front and rear transmission housings. The amount you need to file off is very small. I would also back off all of your screws under the chassis and assemble your top deck and then tighten the under chassis screws a star formation and then you should have more slack and again after running it you will find it will loosen up over a couple of runs.