A few guys wanted to know more about my 4wd setup and the 2wd rear arms I've been using. When switching to the 22-4 I was surprised at how easy it is to drive when the slipper is set correctly, however I felt that the car was a bit inconsistent in the rear. I spend 5-6 days trying different things, and during a conversation with Kevin King I thought 2wd arms being gull wing would be beneficial.

A few things to note on the rear arm swap.
- to achieve the same axle location and shock location as kit the arms and hubs should be spaced as follows
- arms mounted all the way back
- hubs 1mm spacer in front - 3mm behind
- shock location inside on 4wd is the same as 2wd arm outside. So keep that in mind
- to achieve same droop you need to add 3mm of down travel and limit up travel 3mm to maintain proper up travel to keep dog bone from impacting outdrive
- the shock bottom now mounts in front of the arm instead of inside the hoop, so the bottom shock mount could be shaved, or top of shock should be spaced forward 9mm between the two. I personally space the shock top 9mm forward on tower and don't modify the arm, this case if an arm is broke during a crash its easiest to fix in a pinch

the other main change in shock length and droop. I run ae long shock ends as they allow extra down travel. (this should work for the majority of us, my home track is smaller high bite, and Omaha is medium grip and high speed) I have not ran the extra droop on a high bite track thats also fast, so if the car is nervous in that situation try kit shock ends.

here is a few laps on track, these were 2nd run tires / 3rd pack on track. this was before a rear spring change that added a bit of corner speed and stability. sorry didn't get a video with end setup.

Source:

Z. Ballinger