- Team Losi Racing 22 2.0 - Installing Bellcranks -



The parts I used were:
KYOUM716 - Crank Arm Set RB6
KYOUM718 - Steering Crank Shaft (cut down to same length as 22 version)
KYOLA256 - Steering Kingpin set
PTK-MR85ZZ - ProTek 5x8mm bearings
3x16mm setscrew to link the halves of the steering link

You will need to tap one side of the Kyosho steering crank shaft as only one side is threaded. I also took the stock plastic servo mounts and dremeled them to allow the servo to move back about 3-4mm, this gives about 1-2mm of clearance between the servo horn and the bellcrank. I can post pictures later if some of you want them. I did not use any Exotek parts.

Matt Trimmings


1. You need to cut the Kyosho steering bar in half and drill/thread it lengthwise so you can fit a small turnbuckle between the halves to make it wider.

2. Make steering arm standoffs with 5mm od (id of the bellcrank bearings) for the bellcranks to ride on with enough spacing that they rest against the upper end of the standoff/lower side of the bulkhead.
Note: I have heard some people are using shrink tubing to fit the std. standoffs, but I initially tried this with no luck, so I made my own on the lathe.

3. Move the servo back at least 1.5mm so the bellcrank will clear your servo horn. Done by either modifying the servo mount forward side or modify the servo mount rear side and mount servo from the back. (depends on the your servos ultimate height)

4. Grind or cut the top of the outer servo to bellcrank ballcup so it is flush with the hex.

5. Dremel the underside of the bulkhead in all areas that contact is likely to occur. I think there is 4 spots that need some material removed. Trial and error fitment is required until everything fits without any interference.

When you install the system I like to start with the turnbuckle adjustment where both bellcranks are parallel. This is a good starting point for ackerman.

You will definitely need to readjust your radio endpoints as the servo travel will be much reduced. With the old system I was at 135 epa l/r and now I am around 95 epa l/r. I think you will find the steering response is also about 30% quicker due to the relation of the steering ballstud being much closer to center of rotation on the bellcrank than the tierod link giving it an advantage in speed but disadvantage in power.

mxwrench



The parts you need:
- kyosho UM716 crank arm set
- TLR2973 axle spacer set
- 3x16mm set screw (can also use a 4-40 screw)
- silver posts that mount the slide rack housing
- extra set of plastic servo mounts to dremel
- 5x8x2.5mm bearing (4)
- kyosho LA256 steering king pin set
- 3/16 heat shrink

First you take the plastic steering rack and cut it in half (mark which side is which so you know for later) then you tap a hole on each side to put a set screw to connect them. The distance between the centers of the steering bushing holes should be 28.5mm. Then bolt up the steering rack to the kyosho bellcranks. Next put heat shrink on the silver posts. Put the axle crush tubes from the spacer set on the silver posts first. Then mount up the steering cranks. After this screw the silver posts to the chassis using the same screws as with the slide rack housing. Use the 1mm spacer from the kyosho UM716 on top of the bellcrank. Finally you have to dremel down the front of the servo mounts 2mm and remove the servo spacers. This will move the servo back around 4mm so you can screw in the ballstud on the other side of the servo horn. Screw the short 4-40 ballstud from the slide rack on the left bellcrank and put 2 4-40 washers under it and use a 1mm shim for ackerman.


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