Race report

Here's my rear motor set up from the National.

In the end, I was fairly happy with it - upping the rear spring to a pink helped keep it stable on corner entry but with the conditions as they were, it was all I could do to get it clean for the next run.
Next time out, I'd probably run slightly thicker oils to help control things a bit.
Other than that, it drove sweet and was great fun sliding into the corners with a flick of opposite lock

PDF File

B interestin what mods u do where and when??

When do team drivers use long link mod?
Do u run motor brace screws out when?
What do you do to change from dry to wet in shower to gain grip asap?
Weight when?

I jus find i have a good set up now jus if conditions change i dont know what to change ie grass goes to dusty grip loss what do u guys do to adapt

Difficult to accurately answer this because so often, the set up evolves and each element is inter-dependent on others but in answer to your above questions - here goes:

Long Link - Essentially makes the front end less aggressive. Drivers who have done this use in it high traction conditions when it can otherwise feel overly nervous around the front end.

Motor Brace Screws - Some have them removed, others fitted. Personal preference. It enhances flex in the rearward section of the chassis to improve rear traction. Personally, I didn't like it and so I run with the screws fitted. Any flex induced in this manner is inherently uncontrolled - thus I felt it made the car slightly number but more unpredictable. Very subtle difference though.

Weight - Most will add weight as the grip comes up. Weight under the battery space is very central to the overall bias of the car and so it does not affect the FR/RR distribution much. During testing, I found that adding weight when it got grippy made the car easier to drive. I did not need to add weight when the traction was low curiously. I run the Rudebits side pod weights as this helps the car settle in off camber sections faster. I also keep the TLR rear weight kit in my box but only tend to use it when it gets dusty.

Setup changes as the conditions change. Very tricky. If the grip is going away, I would begin to change the wheelbase by shortening the rear hubs on the a-arms. In extreme conditions, I would move the rear outer link position in-board to increase camber gain. At the front, I tend not to change too much. Maybe raise the inner ball stud position to help keep the nose in the turn longer when the grip is diminishing. Changing AntiSquat or Rear Toe is something that is tricky to do in a rush trackside with the Mid Car - so I normally don't deviate too much away from a 2.5 deg A/Squat and 4 deg rear toe with the mid car (rear car is much easier to work on in this regard).

TBH, running on the right tyres at the right time make the biggest impact. I tend to make my car fairly neutral to drive and just try to balance by throttle eagerness with constant forward motion :-)

Andy