The Build – Part 5 – Axles/Turnbuckles
Now that you have the transmission assembled and attached, we’ll be moving on to the rear axles and turnbuckles. As with the rest of the car, both of these areas have seen major improvements over the B4. Best of all, AE has molded up a whole new set of turnbuckles; that makes me happy.
Build Notes:
- Since the turnbuckle ball ends are a new mold, the fit is incredibly tight. Building these IS a pain in the butt, so I would suggest one of two methods to make it easiers. 1) You can add a small amount of black grease to the threads of the turnbuckle prior to assembly. 2) You can ream the holes out slightly prior to assembly.
Step 57:
Familiarize yourself with the new rear hubs. As you can see they are directional; the ‘flat’ side faces the front of the B5M. You will need to keep this in mind in later steps.
Step 58:
Instead of molding two different hubs with different mounting positions, the B5M includes inserts that allow you to fine tune your camber mount spacing. We will be using the A inserts, or the ones on the left (with 3 holes). The B inserts (on the right, with 2 holes), utilize ‘in-between’ spacing. While we won’t be using these, set them aside in your B5M parts box.
Step 59:
The B5M also uses inserts in the rear hubs to control rear toe. We will be using the 0° insert, but put the others in your B5M parts box. As with most of the other parts that have the numbers molded into them, I’ve highlighted mine with a silver Sharpie to make them easier to read.
Step 60:
Press the 0° toe insert (install from the ‘front’ side of the hub). Using the A inserts, assemble the ballstud. Note that the ballstud will be facing the ‘rear’ of the hub.
Step 62:
Press the bearings into the rear hubs.
Step 61:
Assemble the rear axles. Don’t forget to add a little black grease to the coupler area.
Step 63:
Insert the assembled axles through the rear hubs. Slide the wheel hex pin through the axle, using the wheel hex to keep it in place.
Step 64:
Slide the hinge pin through the rear arm, rear hub spacer, assembled rear hub and the other rear hub spacer. Use the M2x4mm screw to secure the hinge pin. Note that the ballstud should be facing the rear of the car.
Step 65:
Oddly enough, the B5M does not come with titanium turnbuckles. Thankfully, though, they are now all the same size!
Step 66:
Build 2 steering turnbuckle assemblies using the 27.5mm length. Make sure you pay attention to the notches in the turnbuckles. One should be facing the straight ballcup, one facing the curved ballcup.
Step 67:
Snap them in place.
Step 68:
Build 2 front camber link assemblies using the 23.85mm length.
Step 69:
Snap them into place. Make sure the notches in the turnbuckles match the steering links, ie, they should both be facing the same way.
Step 70:
Build 2 rear camber link assemblies using the 23.5mm length.
Step 71:
Snap them into place. Make sure the notches in the turnbuckles match the steering links, ie, they should both be facing the same way. If you need to make any adjustments, I would do so near the end of the build (when the car is complete). I like using Schelle Racing’s 12mm Shock and Turnbuckle Tool to make adjustments. The fit is perfect and it’s much easier to use than the stock, stamped tool. Check it out!
As a final check, make sure the turnbuckles ‘move’ freely as do the suspension arms. Any binding will show on the track and could cause handling issues.
Next: Shocks
