NEW SHOCKS
I use 3 hole pistons for the NEW D10 tappered progressive shocks and 50wt Axon oil is the same dampening as the old D09 PSS shock with 40wt. Just a heads up.
When building the shock, always remember to put the first e clip on, then a 0.1mm shim, then piston, then top e-clip. this eliminates any play in the piston.
STEERING
2 x Long screw, 2x2mm shims and the lower shock, aluminium ball so you can get the right bump steer setting (as per my pic)
2x2mm shims for ackerman angle on steering rack to get same as D09 angle
TOP DECK / MOTOR / GEARING
Whole bulkhead/top deck sits 0.3mm lower now, just enough that you may find the gearing you use to run no longer fits, so you may have to go bigger spur and bigger pinion to move the motor away from top deck.
SUSPENSION ARMS - IMPORTANT!
When installing the total of "4mm" of shims on the inner hinge pins on the suspension arms, its not actually 4mm, the instructions are wrong, it is 3.6mm total for the rear and 3.7mm for the front. Please get this right other wise the arms will bind
With the ball stud that goes into the rear suspension arms to hold the sway bay, you may need a 1mm shim as there might not be enough room for the stud to screw in. You do not want to over tighten this, it's only for the way bar and does not hold extreme load.
LIPO HOLDER
Make sure you mount your lips so the plugs go the front of the car, due to the top deck being lower it means the the plugs can get in the way when car flexes if running at the rear.
When installing holder, use the plastic shims provided, this gives enough bite that the lips can not come out but also has enough movement that you can move it by hand to get lip out. Do not use o-rings!
I glued a 2mm bit of plastic to the inner rear holder so my lipo was pushed forward as far as possible and this eliminated any back/forward movement while on track.
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