- Speed Passion LM1 - Build -



Speed Passion LM-1 LeMans Build

Speed Passion LM-1 LeMans Build

The rise of RC Formula 1 has put a huge resurgence in Pan Car racing all across the country. Organizations like the UF1 have created a format that has put a ton of excitement back into 1/10 scale Pan Cars, but the true foam-tired, enclosed-bodied Pan Cars of yesteryear have long been forgotten.

Until now. Speed Passion has released a 1/10 Pan Car based around their SP-1 F1 car, threw on a set of foam tires and molded a killer looking LM-1 LeMans body! The LM-1 Spec Racer is designed to get Pan Car lovers back in to it while keeping with a theme that has made F1 so popular…realism.

Being a Pan Car, the build for the LM-1 is pretty straightforward. Enjoy.

The following support parts will be used with this build:
• Futaba BLS551 Servo, www.futaba-rc.com
• Speed Passion ReventonS Brushless ESC, www.speedpassion.net
• Speed Passion Competition 3.0 17.5T Brushless Motor, www.speedpassion.net
• Thunder Power Battery, www.thunderpowerrc.com
• Futaba 4PL Radio System, www.futaba-rc.com
• Paint by F1RCLab, www.f1rclab.com

The Build – Part 1
Part 1 of the Speed Passion LM-1 LeMans build involves assembling the rear pod.

Build Notes:
- Even though the instructions tell you what bag you need to open for each step, it’s not 100% accurate. Screws from different bags down the list are needed in steps up front, so it’s my suggestion that you open ALL of the bags of screws. Have a set of calipers handy for measurement as well. This is key to making sure the correct screws go into the correct places.

- Have a set of calipers handy for measurement as well. This is key to making sure the correct screws go into the correct places.

- Your calipers will also be necessary to measure out the pivot balls used throughout the build. They are different sizes and if you put the wrong size in the wrong place, you could be purchasing new parts to complete the build.

Part 1 - Rear Pod

Part 1 – Rear Pod

We start off by dropping one of the 5mm ball ends into the pivot black (sometimes called the football) with the flange down. Place the cap on top and secure with the two 2.5x6mm screws. Tighten down, but make sure the pivot ball has free movement.

Part 2 - Rear Pod

Part 2 – Rear Pod

Attach two 5mm pivot balls to the lower rear pod plate. Attach the pivot ball assembly as well. Don’t forget the small, 3×8 washer. Note the length of the screws in this step and where they go. Don’t mix them up.

Part 3 - Rear Pod

Part 3 – Rear Pod

Attach a pair of 5mm pivot balls to the chassis as shown.

Part 4 - Rear Pod

Part 4 – Rear Pod

Insert a pair of M3 nuts into the pivot ball assembly and mate the lower rear pod plate and the chassis as shown, but don’t tighten down the screws yet. Just make them snug.

Part 5 - Rear Pod

Part 5 – Rear Pod

Build 2 side links. Don’t tighten down these screws yet.

Part 6 - Rear Pod

Part 6 – Rear Pod

Pop the side links into place, making sure the raised ‘spine’ is pointed up. Also make sure the screw heads are facing out.

Part 7 - Rear Pod

Part 7 – Rear Pod

Apply a bit of pressure to the pivot ball assembly and tighten up the screws (the ones where my finger and thumb are). The idea here is to make sure the lower rear pod plate is ‘square’ to the chassis. Having the side links in place will help with that.

Part 8 - Rear Pod

Part 8 – Rear Pod

Once the screws in the pivot ball assembly are tight, tighten down the side link screws. Make them tight enough that there is still free side-to-side movement in the pod.

Part 9 - Rear Pod

Part 9 – Rear Pod

Install the ride height spacers into both rear pod pieces.

Part 10 - Rear Pod

Part 10 – Rear Pod

Attach the two pod plates using the rear wing mount. Do not tighten these screws yet.

Part 11 - Rear Pod

Part 11 – Rear Pod

Attach the rear pod assembly onto the lower rear pod plate. Tighten down the screws, adding a small drop of threadlock to the screws securing the aluminum motor mount.

Part 12 - Rear Pod

Part 12 – Rear Pod

Finish off this step by tightening down the rear wing mount screws.

The Build – Part 2
The next step of our Speed Passion LM-1 LeMans build is the assembly of the rear axle. We’ll also be assembling the differential as well.

Build Notes:
- While not the norm, we do have to build the ENTIRE rear axle, which means pinning the inner diff hub to the chassis. This might be a bit difficult to do, but if you have a good set of pliers and some patience, it should be a piece of cake.

- We’ll be working with diff grease, so have some clean rags or towels handy just in case of any spills.

- With the Speed Passion motor installed, it is extremely difficult to solder the wires onto it. Since I wanted to replace the wires on the ESC with a smaller gauge anyway (to help keep the rear pod’s movement free), I went ahead and measured out the length and and soldered them to the motor prior to installation.

Part 13 - Rear Pod

Part 13 – Rear Pod

Step 1 is a bit of a freak step, seeing as most Pan Car manufacturers already do this step for you. We have to pin the inner hub to the axle. While it might seem, at first, to be a bit of a chore, it’s not all that bad. The first step is to pre-press the pin into the hole. This is probably the hardest step, but easier to do with the hub off the axle. Push it in just far enough to hold it in place.

Part 14 - Rear Pod

Part 14 – Rear Pod

Slide the axle into place and line up the holes in both the axle and hub. Once set, carefully press the pin all the way through the assembly. Note the direction of the hub to the axle.

Part 15 - Rear Pod

Part 15 – Rear Pod

Using the 0-offset axle ride height spacers, press a bearing into each, then press them into the rear pod as shown.

Part 16 - Rear Pod

Part 16 – Rear Pod

Slide a single, plastic shim onto the axle. Slide that assembly through the axle ride height spacers.

Part 17 - Rear Pod

Part 17 – Rear Pod

On the other side of the pod, slide another plastic shim onto the axle followed by the aluminum spacer and wheel adapter. Use the 3x3mm set screw to hold the wheel adapter in place. Do not press the wheel adapter to firmly onto the axle; you want a minute bit of side-to-side play.

Part 18 - Rear Pod

Part 18 – Rear Pod

Spin the axle assembly to make sure it rotates freely. It might not spin super long (since there is no weight on the axle), but it should be free.

Part 19 - Rear Pod

Part 19 – Rear Pod

Apply a small dab of diff grease to the inner hub and set the diff ring into place.

Part 20 - Rear Pod

Part 20 – Rear Pod

Slide the spur gear into place and fill the outer holes with diff grease. Press the 18 1/8? diff balls into the outer holes as shown. Set the car to the side. The current diff assembly should stay in tact.

Part 21 - Rear Pod

Part 21 – Rear Pod

Apply a small dab of diff grease to the outer hub and set the diff ring into place. Press a 12x8mm bearing into the hub as shown.

Part 22 - Rear Pod

Part 22 – Rear Pod

Now we need to assemble the outer thrust washer. The picture shows the order of the parts; 11x5mm bearing, 2 5mm spring washers, 5x11mm washer and 4mm flanged nut.

Part 23 - Rear Pod

Part 23 – Rear Pod

Here is how I get them all installed in an easy manner. Slide the parts on a wrench, tilt the car on its side and place the tip of the wrench onto the tip of the axle (within the hub). Wahlah…parts just slide right into place. Two quick notes; 1) make sure the bearing drops ALL the way down into the hub and 2) the 5mm spring washers should be facing each other (cone side out).

Part 24 - Rear Pod

Part 24 – Rear Pod

Fasten down the 4mm flanged nut, ‘working’ the diff every couple turns. To test how tight it is, slide the rear tires onto the axle and, while holding each tire tightly, try and spin the diff gear with your thumb. If you can spin it, the diff is too loose. Tighten it up. If you can’t (or it’s extremely hard to), you’re in about the right place to start off. You can do final adjustments on the track.

Part 25 - Rear Pod

Part 25 – Rear Pod

Remove the tires and slide the axle end cap into place, lining up the the through-holes in both the cap and hub. Slide the 2x13mm pin into place and secure with the set screw. Do not overtighten.

Part 26 - Rear Pod

Part 26 – Rear Pod

As I mentioned earlier, the wires are very difficult to install once the motor is in the car. I wanted 16G wire to keep the rear pod from binding so measured out the length and installed them now. I also installed the sensor wire as well.

Part 27 - Rear Pod

Part 27 – Rear Pod

The instructions show you using a pair of standard 3x8mm screws to hold the motor in place. That’s well and good, but I like to also use washers. I added a pair to the screws for this step.

Part 28 - Rear Pod

Part 28 – Rear Pod

The motor just drops right in and is an easy install. We’ll hook the wires up to the ESC in a later step.

The Build – Part 3
The LM-1 uses a unique dual-bellcrank steering system, a setup found mostly in offroad and touring cars. This setup makes the steering feel (and react) a bit differently than a direct-setup and I’m actually loving it.

Build Notes:
- When attaching the lower front arms to the chassis, pay attention to which holes you are using in the inserts. If you use the wrong holes, you’ll make the front end REALLY wide.

- Also pay attention to the pivot balls that install into the outer part of the lower arms. There is a ‘lip’ or flange that must point up.

Part 29 - Rear Pod

Part 29 – Rear Pod

Our first order of business is to assemble the steering rack. Start by attaching 3 ballstuds to the rack, placing a spacer under the two on the front. A small drop of threadlock will keep the upright ballstud securely fastened to the 3mm nut. Press the two bearings into place as shown.

Part 30 - Rear Pod

Part 30 – Rear Pod

Attach the rack assembly to the bellcrank arms. Make sure the two thin washers go BETWEEN the arm and the rack. There should be free movement in the rack once assembled. Also note the orientation of the bellcrank arms so you don’t install them upside down.

Part 31 - Rear Pod

Part 31 – Rear Pod

Attach the bellcrank standoffs to the chassis in the holes shown and slide a 5mm bearing over each one. A dab of threadlock on the screws will keep the standoffs secure.

Part 32 - Rear Pod

Part 32 – Rear Pod

Slide the steering bellcrank assembly onto the standoffs, press another 5mm bearing into place and secure with the 4mm screw.

Part 33 - Rear Pod

Part 33 – Rear Pod

Press the swivel ball into the end of each lower arm and tighten the 10mm screw down. Do not overtighten. Press the arm mount inserts into the lower arms as shown, making sure the mounting line is pointing in (or away from the arm).

Part 34 - Rear Pod

Part 34 – Rear Pod

Take one of your drivers and insert it into the ball. Roll it around to make sure there is free movement. If not, loosen the screw slightly and try again. You want completely free movement, but not so much that there is slop.

Part 35 - Rear Pod

Part 35 – Rear Pod

Find the two ride height plates. As you can see, one is facing up, one is facing down (I’m not sure WHAT is up and what is down, but you can see they are different on each side). We will be installing them like the lower one in the picture, with the little printed number facing down.

Part 36 - Rear Pod

Part 36 – Rear Pod

Slide 15mm screw up through the chassis, through the arm mount, through a pair of 2mm spacers (so 4mm total) and into the arm mount insert. Tighten to a secure snug, but don’t overtighten, and make sure you mount to the hole shown in the manual (or a narrow wheelbase).

Part 37 - Rear Pod

Part 37 – Rear Pod

Assemble the mounts and horn to your servo. Do not tighten down the mount screws yet.

Part 38 - Rear Pod

Part 38 – Rear Pod

Since it’s difficult to reach the mount screws once the servo is installed, we need to make sure the holes are aligned first. Turn the chassis over and mount the servo to the bottom of it as shown. Once mounted, tighten up the 4 mount screws.

Part 39 - Rear Pod

Part 39 – Rear Pod

Remove the servo, flip the chassis over and re-mount it. Wah-lah, perfect alignment!

The Build – Part 4
If Part 4 of the LM-1 build, we assemble and attach the front end. It’s a simple, double a-arm setup that features a pillow-ball upper arm for quick and easy camber adjustments.

Build Notes:
- Threadlock will be needed in a few of these steps, so have some ready!

- Pre-compress the springs prior to installation. This gives them a quick ‘set’.

- The LM-1 have 2 options for the front axle; inline and trailing (you can read about both here: Inline/Trailing Axle. For this build, I’m using the trailing per the instructions.

Part 40 - Rear Pod

Part 40 – Rear Pod

We start off by attaching the caster blocks to the lower arm brace. The kit comes with multiple blocks, but we are starting out with the 10 degree per the manual. Note the orientation of the blocks.

Part 41 - Rear Pod

Part 41 – Rear Pod

The next step is attaching the upper arms to the caster blocks. To assemble, slide the pin through the upper arm and caster block. Before pushing all the way through, insert 2 1mm spacers on each side as shown. Once you’ve pushed it through all the way, secure with the two 2x5mm socket screws (not shown simply because I forgot to do it).

Part 42 - Rear Pod

Part 42 – Rear Pod

Insert a 3mm ballstud into each upper arm. These are for a front damper that will be installed at a later time.

Part 43 - Rear Pod

Part 43 – Rear Pod

Drop the upper arm assembly into position and secure with the 4 3x6mm button head screws. Do not overtighten.

Part 44 - Rear Pod

Part 44 – Rear Pod

Build 3 turnbuckles; 2 steering and one drag link. The lengths given will be a good start.

Part 45 - Rear Pod

Part 45 – Rear Pod

Pop the steering links on as well as the drag link. Note the orientation of the two steering links; the ‘line’ on the adjustment square (on the turnbuckles) should both be pointing the same direction.

Part 46 - Rear Pod

Part 46 – Rear Pod

Attach the ballstud to the steering block. Don’t forget to use a 2mm spacer on both sides. You might also want to put a drop of threadlock here.

Part 47 - Rear Pod

Part 47 – Rear Pod

Slide the steering pivot ball into the steering block and CAREFULLY thread the plastic stopper screw into place. This screw is extremely easy to crossthread to take your time here. Also slide the axle into place. We’re setting it up as a trailing axle per the instructions.

Part 48 - Rear Pod

Part 48 – Rear Pod

As you can see from this pic, the plastic stopper screw is flush with the steering block, not all crooked and crossthreaded. The steering pivot ball should also have extremely free movement.

Part 49 - Rear Pod

Part 49 – Rear Pod

Slide a .5mm and a 1mm shim onto the kingpin, followed by the suspension spring.

Part 50 - Rear Pod

Part 50 – Rear Pod

Press the kingpin though the bottom of the front arm, up through the 3 1mm spacers and into the steering block. Thread it in slowly. I initially used the 3mm spacing per the instructions but ended up at about 3.5mm.

Part 51 - Rear Pod

Part 51 – Rear Pod

Thread the steering pivot ball into the upper arm as shown. There are no settings for from camber at this point, but I have mine set at about 3.25mm (of the steering pivot ball shaft showing). This will probably be a good start.

Part 52 - Rear Pod

Part 52 – Rear Pod

Finally, pop the steering links onto the steering blocks.

The Build – Part 5
This step is a short one and involves assembling the rear suspension; basically the rear damper, side springs and center shock mount.

Build Notes:
- The side springs are a little bit delicate, so take care when attaching them to the side spring retainers. You don’t want to ‘skew’ them or get them on there crooked.

- Start with the included roll damper lube. If you are running on carpet, you may want a little bit thicker lube.

Part 53 - Rear Pod

Part 53 – Rear Pod

Start off the step by attaching the 8 standoff posts. Make sure you put the 2 short ones closest to the motor with the remaining 6 long ones towards the front.

Part 54 - Rear Pod

Part 54 – Rear Pod

I’ve changed the build procedure here on the next few steps from the manual. While you can build it as the manual states, it’s extremely tedious so I’ve come up with a little easier method. First, screw the setscrew into the side spring retainers.

Part 55 - Rear Pod

Part 55 – Rear Pod

Feed your wrench down though the hole in the pod brace and key it to the set screw. Screw the setscrew counterclockwise and UP INTO the pod brace…basically you’ll be ‘loosening’ the screw into position. Trust me, it’s WAY easier this way.

Part 56 - Rear Pod

Part 56 – Rear Pod

Once you’re got both side spring mounts into position, attach the side springs. Don’t mind the crooked springs…they were fixed prior to final assembly.

Part 57 - Rear Pod

Part 57 – Rear Pod

Attach the pod brace to the rearmost, short posts. The ballend actually takes the place of a lefthand screw.

Part 58 - Rear Pod

Part 58 – Rear Pod

Build two damper roll tubes as shown.

Part 59 - Rear Pod

Part 59 – Rear Pod

Spread a thin layer of lube over in male half of the assembly and slide together. Start with the lube that comes in the kit.

Part 60 - Rear Pod

Part 60 – Rear Pod

Attach one end of the damper tube to the ball end on the pod brace.

Part 61 - Rear Pod

Part 61 – Rear Pod

Build the center shock mount as shown.

Part 62 - Rear Pod

Part 62 – Rear Pod

Attach the other end of the damper tube to the lower ball end on the center shock mount, then attach the center shock mount to the chassis as shown.

Part 63 - Rear Pod

Part 63 – Rear Pod

Pop the second roll damper tube on the front ballends as shown.

The Build – Part 6
Time to build the center shock. We’ll also be attaching the upper deck in this step as well.

Build Notes:
- Since we’ll be building the center shock at this time, have a few clean rags available in case of any spills.

Part 63 - Rear Pod

Part 63 – Rear Pod

Start off by installing the o-ring into the spring retainer. I suggest washing your hands prior to this step. Installing slippery o-rings (because of oil on your fingers) is really no fun.

Part 64 - Rear Pod

Part 64 – Rear Pod

Build the center shocks cartridge. Install the o-ring followed by the plastic spacer, shaft guide and lower cap. Add a small drop of shock oil to the o-ring when installing.

Part 65 - Rear Pod

Part 65 – Rear Pod

Next, build the shock shaft. Install and e-clip, the piston shim, the piston and then the 2nd e-clip.

Part 66 - Rear Pod

Part 66 – Rear Pod

Slide a black spacer onto the shaft. Add a small drop of oil to the threads on the shaft and feed it through the shock body. Press it SLOWLY through the lower shock cartridge to avoid tearing the o-ring.

Part 67 - Rear Pod

Part 67 – Rear Pod

Using a pair of these awesome STRC Shock Shaft Pliers, grab the shaft and thread on the shock end. If you don’t have some of these trick pliers, go get some. I’ll wait. If you don’t me to wait that long, use a pair of sidecutters to hold the shaft…just make sure you grab down near the threads.

Part 68 - Rear Pod

Part 68 – Rear Pod

Fill the shock with oil and pump the shock shaft up and down a few times to release any air in the shock. Place it in a suitable holder (I use Duratrax’s Shock Building Stand) for a few minutes to allow all the bubbles to rise to the top.

Part 69 - Rear Pod

Part 69 – Rear Pod

Time to cap it off, but before we do, get all the parts ready; the bladder, rebound bushing, shock head and damper cap. Fill the shock until the oil is just under the lip of the shock. Place the bladder on top of the shock, letting any excess oil ooze out. Now drop the rebound bushing into place followed by the shock head and damper cap. Screw down all the way. The shock shaft should plunge almost all the way into the shock and rebound almost all the way out.

Part 70 - Rear Pod

Part 70 – Rear Pod

Screw the spring retainer onto the shock followed by the spring and spring cup. We’ll adjust the spring tension at a later time.

Part 71 - Rear Pod

Part 71 – Rear Pod

Attach the antenna mount and center shock mount to the upper deck as shown.

Part 72 - Rear Pod

Part 72 – Rear Pod

Attach the upper deck to the LM-1.

Part 73 - Rear Pod

Part 73 – Rear Pod

Finally, pop the shock into place. The manual shows the addition of a screw and o-ring over the front mount. I didn’t add it, but you can for a little extra security.

The Build – Part 7
In this step we attach the tire/wheels to the car as well as the body mounts. We also top the LM-1 off with one of the most amazing bodies I’ve ever seen. Thanks to Brad Palmer over at F1 RC Lab for the extraordinary paint work.

Build Notes:
- Nothing odd or crazy for this step.

Part 74 - Rear Pod

Part 74 – Rear Pod

The first step in Part 7 should already be done but if it isn’t, you’ll want to build up the other roll damper.

Part 75 - Rear Pod

Part 75 – Rear Pod

Attach the assembled roll damper to the ball studs mounted on top of the front suspension arms.

Part 76 - Rear Pod

Part 76 – Rear Pod

Attach two of the body mounts to the front, fiberglass bumper. Using the diagram in the manual, push a pair of body clips into the holes shown. These are preset to work with the LM-1 body.

Part 77 - Rear Pod

Part 77 – Rear Pod

Attach the fiberglass front bumper assembly to the chassis.

Part 78 - Rear Pod

Part 78 – Rear Pod

Attach the remaining 2 body posts to the rear of the chassis as shown. Again, using the diagram in the manual, push the body support clips into the holes shown.

Part 79 - Rear Pod

Part 79 – Rear Pod

Press a pair of 10x5mm bearings into each front wheel. Slide 2 of the 0.5mm PET shims onto the axle, followed by the tire assembly. Secure with the 4mm locknut. Do not overtighten; you want the tire to spin freely once secured.

Part 80 - Rear Pod

Part 80 – Rear Pod

Attach the rear tire onto the axle and secure with the 4mm flange nut.

The Build – Part 8
The final step to the Speed Passion LM-1 LeMans involves installing the electronics and the absolutely stunning LM-1 body. Big props to Brad Palmer at F1 RC Labs for his amazing paint work!

Build Notes:
- The body contains multiple pieces, making it a bit difficult to mount after assembly. Before painting, I would advise ‘pre-mounting’ it, or at least marking the holes to make it easier to mount.

Part 81 - Rear Pod

Part 81 – Rear Pod

The first step is to install the ESC. As I mentioned in an earlier step, attaching the wires to the motor (once installed) was a bear, so I cut some 16g wire to length and installed them on the motor first. Now that it’s time to install the ESC, I soldered the 16g wire to the ESC. Really, it’s much easier than it sounds. Tape the ESC in place and route the power leads, switch and capacitor to their mounting locations.

Part 82 - Rear Pod

Part 82 – Rear Pod

Attach your receiver to the other side of the chassis. I routed the servo/ESC power leads through some shrink wrap and mounted that behind the servo. There is still plenty of room for a full-size LiPo battery.

Part 83 - Rear Pod

Part 83 – Rear Pod

Finally, drop you body into place and admire how absolutley killer it looks. To give my LM-1 a little bit of extra flare, I painted the wheels black and added some tire decals. Love how awesome it looks!

So, that’s it! You should have a fully functional, track-ready LM-1 LeMans car! Thanks for following along.


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