- Serpent S411 - Ed Clark - Shock Build Technique - Jan. 2012 -
I've been playing with the shocks again today, and have settled on the following parts and build method for the RCM shocks. Got all 4 built the same, and very nice and smooth.
Tamiya black bladders (TAM53576)
Extra delrin spacers (#160109)
Tamiya 4mm shim set (TAM53586)
- Assemble shock as per kit, but in bottom put the following - 0.4mm of 4mm shims, Delrin spacer, clear o-ring, 2x Delrin spacer (see pic), then put on bottom cap. Use a little oil or Green Slime on the o-ring.
The extra shims are used to take up the slack, as the delrin spacers are thinner than the o-rings.
- Put on lower ball joint, and wind it up so there is a distance of 10mm from bottom cap to top of ball joint (measurement method is the same as the TE manual)
- Fill up shock with oil, and remove air with shock pump (I use Losi90 with 6hole pistons)
- Push piston all the way into body (or to where you want your rebound setting), and put on bladder. With the ball joint wound up to 10mm, the piston won't push into the bladder, which can cause issues with the rebound setting.
- Drill a 1mm hole in plastic top cap (if not already done), then put on top of bladder.
- Screw on alloy cap, keeping piston pushed in. To get easily tight, use a 13mm spanner.
- Now unwind the lower ball cup to allow droop to be set. Not unwinding the joint can mean holding the arm up, and not hitting the droop screws, especially with big droop settings. I currently have the front's at 10.5mm and the rear's at 11mm. (5F/4R Droop).
And on that point, also wanted to share some pics of my ride at the moment... just awaiting new motor, otherwise ready to rock.