Shocks:
Two ball cup options are available for the shock shaft. Use the shorter one to achieve proper ride height.

Toe blocks:
The kit includes rectangular metal plates to shim your toe blocks (in 1mm increments) in order to tune kick up/anti-dive and roll center. Use these over shims if you want to make adjustments.

Front Spool Mount:
Recommended stock position is 6:00. This may cause the spool to rub against the front shock tower, so it may be necessary to lightly sand down the left side of the spool pulley

Driveshafts:
The DCJs for the front come pre-assembled, but it's a good idea to take them apart for cleaning and greasing. Most people use anti-wear grease for their DCJs in order to have longer operating life. When rebuilding your DCJ drive shafts, it's also a good idea to double-check the retaining ring faces the proper direction. Like the Tamiya 417 and some other cars, the retaining ring has a curved edge. In order to avoid having the ring pop off, face the curved edge so it rotates toward the direction the car will be traveling (opposite for left and right sides).

Spur Pulley:
OFNA recommends XRAY or HPI spurs for their pulley design. I verified this with a traditional Kimbrough spur: the thickness was too deep to properly secure the e-clip on the pulley. Instead, something like XRAY part# 305870 will work.

Body Mounts:
The kit instructions specify body mount heights which are too low for most touring car race bodies. For the front, use at least the 11th hole from the bottom. For the rear, use at least the 3rd hole from the bottom (depending on your body and preferences).

Steering:
The kit includes a servo horn, but a good servo saver is recommended.

Chassis:
CA the edges as usual if you like.

The inner battery retainers protrude a little bit once installed which makes it impossible to flatten the chassis on a setup board and check for tweak. Sanding the bottom of each battery retainer helps prevent this.